I have seen this at shop but do not remember how it was done. Have engine /trans removed for some chassis reinforcement work and will be moving car around...
What is best way to suspend axles so they are not "flopping" around.... ( I do not want to remove ---too lazy )
TIA

I used loops of safety wire attached to the rear shock coils to hold them up.

Cut hoops out of a one quart Clorox bottle, suspend with a strap, bit of lube & good to go...

Tangerine has a kit. Way more spendy than the Clorox bottles, but...

http://www.tangerineracing.com/tools.htm

Wire coat hangers.

Ditto on the wire coat hanger. I also added rubber/nytril (sp) gloves over the exposed CV joint to keep out the crud. Looks kind of funny with a blue "hand" covering the CV.

A piece of pvc pipe, just big enough to go over the CVs, cut to the maximum so you slide it on one axle just clearing the other side and then center it on both axles.

Too lazy? All these fixes take just as long...

Coat hanger and some bending is all you need. I would also recommend double sandwich bags over the CV's...

Zip ties

hang a section of 1/2 inch metal conduit from the top of the shock springs across the bottom of the trunk. . zip tie rod to springs, then zip tie the CV's to this bar. .
Easy, clean and secure. . plastic bags over each CV first. .

If you're removing the drivetrain, you can easily use wires (or string, or zip ties, or whatever you have handy) to suspend the axles from the transmission mounting brackets. Super easy. Cover the CV joints so dirt doesn't get in, and so you don't wind up with CV grease stains on your work clothes.

If you know you're not going to be moving the car around, it's not fatal to just let them hang, but it is better to tie them up.

--DD

While I agree with Dave if moving it a (very) short distance wont be to bad I tend to be cautious here because replacing those bearing is a PITA

Keven's recommendation is a good one. Like $8 at your favorite HM improvement warehouse you can PU a 6" (?) PVC pipe section (like 8') that you measure & cut each end off of. They slide perfectly into the openings in each Trailing arm with the flared end in the middle that mates.

I personally used this method in a pinch transporting a car from OR to WA.
The plastic was spent by the time I arrived but it worked, & bearings were just fine.

this works too.

I use bungees also

Ratcheting tie down strap between lt and rt coils, then coat hangers for hanging the axles from the strap.

I used to use a cardboard tube, just large enough in dia for the cvs to fit inside.
It doesn't have to extend all the way to both trailing arms as shown with the PVC pipe.
Whatever is the longest single piece that can be installed without challenge will do just fine.
While expensive in comparison, my axle tool beats all the other techniques hands down.
I only invented it because I've tried all the other methods mentioned, and got tired of the shortcomings.

You could get an extra set of stubs and just pull you CVs and stubs out, install the new stubs and you have the best of both worlds.

Also let you check and see if your inner CVs need a bit of TLC. Mark them and swap side to side to run them in a different pattern.

That Being Said, Chris' stuff is very nice if you need to keep one mobile for long periods of time.

I used bungee cords too along with tin foil around the messy end(s).

Tangerine is the best option, used it for 3 years on mine!

While there is no doubt of the quality of the product you offer Chris... $190!!!
Hard to justify that kind of expense compared to the the solution I posted as example.
As to using a spare set of stubs, Id prefer to do that but sometimes its not warranted. Often it can be a real PITA just to remove the nut.

Best Idea I have seen so far, Keeps the CV's clean also

I raised the price recently because the cost of powdercoating is substantial. Maybe I should offer them uncoated for $50 less.
The value depends mostly on how long you'll have the engine out of the car and how much you'll need to roll the tub around.

IMO, a long cardboard/PVC tube is far better than the coat hanger/bungee method when it comes to rolling the car around.
But it lacks one feature - mine raises the shafts up high enough to easily crawl under them to work in the engine compartment.

914werke,

Interesting solution. What diameter PVC pipe is that? Thanks.

I copied the photos, blew up the view, but could not read the print on the pipes.

A quick look at the Lowe's site indicates a 10 ft length of 4"dia is $11 and 6"dia is $35.

Agreed 100%

Powder painting and all the things behind the scenes plus the fact volume of sales is relative small makes producing cool parts like this hard to make any money on.

Sorry should clarify this message was to defend racer chris prices..

I didn't mean to imply using the PVC for rolling transport. As Chris mentioned, superior for pushing the car around than other methods.

I don't think there is an argument.
Quality parts cost $ that temporary solutions dont.

I like the PVC solution for short term, Chris' for longer.
My swayAway axles still have the pretty powder coat on them and I don't want to scratch them up.

Edit: damn just checked, my 108mm cv's are 4-1/4" so I'd need 6" PVC.

The flanges on my tool have 3 sets of holes to accommodate the various CVs we use.

A 4.5" od steel tube would do the trick for your big CVs. A couple of split rings made of wood to insert in the ends would keep the tube away from the axle shafts.

I like this one (pvc) !!! Almost always transporting without engine and this allows to turn and not flop.





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