To remove the pedal cluster, I need to remove the MC from the front firewall, don't I? Can't remember, and I'm trying to confirm whether I need to take off the belly pan, MC, etc... (i.e., how much time and PITA should I budget for here?).
Danke in advance.
Full Version: Pedal Cluster Removal
QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Apr 21 2018, 10:21 AM) 
To remove the pedal cluster, I need to remove the MC from the front firewall, don't I? Can't remember, and I'm trying to confirm whether I need to take off the belly pan, MC, etc... (i.e., how much time and PITA should I budget for here?).
Danke in advance.
Ok, it was probably dumb question, but it's "affirmative." (Here in the future we say "affirmative").
Came out quickly, though. Rebuilt cluster pedal, new throttle cable, all ready to go.
I guess everyone's at some event out West or up in Chocolate Town...
You start chiding folks about slow response in one hour?? Oy!! Sorry I was asleep at 7:30 on a Saturday morning...
As you found out, yes you do remove the MC. Or at least unbolt it--you don't have to crack open the brake lines forcing to you have to bleed the system in order to just remove the pedal cluster.
BTW, it's often not a good idea to assume that a nut is a simple nut until you find the other side of it. Sometimes you'll find there's a bolt head on the other end, and what you thought was a nut was a weld-nut. If you're really unlucky, or really stupid, you can spend a bunch of time cursing at a stubborn nut and then finally break it loose with way too much torque, only to notice that there were welds holding it on to the bracket you were taking it off of.
Yes, that is the voice of experience.
No, I'm not going to elaborate.
--DD
As you found out, yes you do remove the MC. Or at least unbolt it--you don't have to crack open the brake lines forcing to you have to bleed the system in order to just remove the pedal cluster.
BTW, it's often not a good idea to assume that a nut is a simple nut until you find the other side of it. Sometimes you'll find there's a bolt head on the other end, and what you thought was a nut was a weld-nut. If you're really unlucky, or really stupid, you can spend a bunch of time cursing at a stubborn nut and then finally break it loose with way too much torque, only to notice that there were welds holding it on to the bracket you were taking it off of.
Yes, that is the voice of experience.
No, I'm not going to elaborate.
--DD
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 21 2018, 02:39 PM)
You start chiding folks about slow response in one hour?? Oy!! Sorry I was asleep at 7:30 on a Saturday morning...
Who's chiding? I'm just saying you're a slacker for sleeping past 10:30 EST.
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 21 2018, 11:39 AM)
You start chiding folks about slow response in one hour?? Oy!! Sorry I was asleep at 7:30 on a Saturday morning...
As you found out, yes you do remove the MC. Or at least unbolt it--you don't have to crack open the brake lines forcing to you have to bleed the system in order to just remove the pedal cluster.
BTW, it's often not a good idea to assume that a nut is a simple nut until you find the other side of it. Sometimes you'll find there's a bolt head on the other end, and what you thought was a nut was a weld-nut. If you're really unlucky, or really stupid, you can spend a bunch of time cursing at a stubborn nut and then finally break it loose with way too much torque, only to notice that there were welds holding it on to the bracket you were taking it off of.
Yes, that is the voice of experience.
No, I'm not going to elaborate.
--DD
I was at breakfast with our local Diablo region PCA club at 7AM this morning
Will be pulling my pedal cluster in the near future...
Danke in advance.
[/quote]
Remove the carpet, pedal board. Pull the rubber bot off of the brake pedal rod to master cylinder. Using a 13m socket on a 3 inch 3/8 drive ratchet, remove the two nuts that hols it down tho the floor.
Remove the two 17 and two 13nn bolts from the belly pan. Wear a face mask. It is a dirt shelf. Favorite of rodents.
Using a 13mm box end wrench break loose the two nuts on the master cylinder.
Pull the master away from the firewall. 1/2 inch is good.
remove the clutch cable at the wheel on the trans.
disconnect the accelerator cable at the engine.
Using a thick chisel as a wedge, shove it under the front of the pedal set to lift it off of the studs.
Remove the two wires to the switch.
Twist, pull , wiggle it out with the cable attached. Now that it is out where you can work on it, disconnect the clutch clevis and accelerator ball cup.
Your done.
[/quote]
Remove the carpet, pedal board. Pull the rubber bot off of the brake pedal rod to master cylinder. Using a 13m socket on a 3 inch 3/8 drive ratchet, remove the two nuts that hols it down tho the floor.
Remove the two 17 and two 13nn bolts from the belly pan. Wear a face mask. It is a dirt shelf. Favorite of rodents.
Using a 13mm box end wrench break loose the two nuts on the master cylinder.
Pull the master away from the firewall. 1/2 inch is good.
remove the clutch cable at the wheel on the trans.
disconnect the accelerator cable at the engine.
Using a thick chisel as a wedge, shove it under the front of the pedal set to lift it off of the studs.
Remove the two wires to the switch.
Twist, pull , wiggle it out with the cable attached. Now that it is out where you can work on it, disconnect the clutch clevis and accelerator ball cup.
Your done.
[quote name='bdstone914' date='Apr 21 2018, 09:11 PM' post='2601615']
Danke in advance.
[/quote]
Remove the carpet, pedal board. Pull the rubber bot off of the brake pedal rod to master cylinder. Using a 13m socket on a 3 inch 3/8 drive ratchet, remove the two nuts that hols it down tho the floor.
Remove the two 17 and two 13nn bolts from the belly pan. Wear a face mask. It is a dirt shelf. Favorite of rodents.
Using a 13mm box end wrench break loose the two nuts on the master cylinder.
Pull the master away from the firewall. 1/2 inch is good.
remove the clutch cable at the wheel on the trans.
disconnect the accelerator cable at the engine.
Using a thick chisel as a wedge, shove it under the front of the pedal set to lift it off of the studs.
Remove the two wires to the switch.
Twist, pull , wiggle it out with the cable attached. Now that it is out where you can work on it, disconnect the clutch clevis and accelerator ball cup.
Your done.
Time, probably 1 to 1.5 hours. If you have all of the tools you need.
[/quote]
Danke in advance.
[/quote]
Remove the carpet, pedal board. Pull the rubber bot off of the brake pedal rod to master cylinder. Using a 13m socket on a 3 inch 3/8 drive ratchet, remove the two nuts that hols it down tho the floor.
Remove the two 17 and two 13nn bolts from the belly pan. Wear a face mask. It is a dirt shelf. Favorite of rodents.
Using a 13mm box end wrench break loose the two nuts on the master cylinder.
Pull the master away from the firewall. 1/2 inch is good.
remove the clutch cable at the wheel on the trans.
disconnect the accelerator cable at the engine.
Using a thick chisel as a wedge, shove it under the front of the pedal set to lift it off of the studs.
Remove the two wires to the switch.
Twist, pull , wiggle it out with the cable attached. Now that it is out where you can work on it, disconnect the clutch clevis and accelerator ball cup.
Your done.
Time, probably 1 to 1.5 hours. If you have all of the tools you need.
[/quote]
I just want to say that with the new pedal cluster installed and the new throttle cable the throttle response and clutch / shifting are awesome.
I had a newly rebuilt pedal cluster sitting on the shelf for a while but didn't realize how bad my old one was. My accelerator started sticking a week or so ago (freely revving up to 3000, which is pleasant early morning in the neighborhood), so this project ended up on the top of my punch list. When I got the old pedal cluster out I was amazed I was able to accelerate (or shift or brake) at all.
If you don't know the condition of yours, do yourself a favor and inspect it. And if it's never ever been replaced (AFAYK), get one of Bruce's refurbed sets and go for it. I know it's not all that fun sticking your head down there, but it can make a big difference to how the car drives.
I had a newly rebuilt pedal cluster sitting on the shelf for a while but didn't realize how bad my old one was. My accelerator started sticking a week or so ago (freely revving up to 3000, which is pleasant early morning in the neighborhood), so this project ended up on the top of my punch list. When I got the old pedal cluster out I was amazed I was able to accelerate (or shift or brake) at all.
If you don't know the condition of yours, do yourself a favor and inspect it. And if it's never ever been replaced (AFAYK), get one of Bruce's refurbed sets and go for it. I know it's not all that fun sticking your head down there, but it can make a big difference to how the car drives.
Yep. we were in the Hills of AZ. I've reached the point of pulling the steering wheel and drivers seat if I need to work on anything in that general vicinity. Us "Old n Cranky's" don't need the added frustration brought about by working in confined areas. And it only adds about 5 min's to the job. 
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