Sunday I installed my new Hyfire CDI box. I've had it for a while and finally found the time to do the entire installation in one fell swoop. I couldn't test it at the time because some other parts were still off the engine, but I was pretty careful, and confident it would work just fine. The only questionable item in my mind was the fact that I'm using a Crane Cams (PS-92) CDI coil, but I think that should be ok.
Last night I got the rest of the engine ready to fire up and turned on the ignition. First I set up the rev limiter , then the number of cylinders, and I thought it was time for a cranking test. I turned the key and didn't get any sparky sounds so I looked at the light on the CD box that the instructions say will blink while cranking. Steady light, no blink. Hmm, that's a bad sign.

I went to the engine compartment next to check my connections. Everything was hooked up but ... what's that?...



WTF. The red wire goes to the green wire and the green wire goes to the red wire. I don't think that's right. I certainly don't remember hooking it up that way Sunday. Making that connection was the last thing I did before cleaning up.
Which one of you snuck into my garage and reversed the connections?

So I switched the wires back and,hoping against hope cranked the engine over again. NO change. Last chance. Perform the test procedure on the Unilite Module. I get about 12 volts at the coil negative position whether the optical trigger is open or closed. Its fried.

What a dumbass I am sometimes.
I did the same thing to a Pertronix a long time ago... and again to my Crane Hi-6 about 8 years ago.

Do you ever wonder what makes us turn off our brains and act like absolute morons once in a while? Maybe it never happens to you, but I've certainly had my share of braindead experiences, without even being drunk or on drugs, to use as an excuse.

I got a new module today, so I'll try again later tonight. :fingerscrossed:

I tie my fingers, everytime I tie my shoes.




M

im re wiring my hyfire this week....

aslo switching to a 1.5 ohm coil.... SUPPOSED to be ok for the unilite though

Did a similar thing with my first Unilite module (no CDI). Hooked up the red wire to the + post on the coil, and the black wire to the - post. I didn't bother to notice that the tach wire was also hooked to the + post, and the power wire to the - post (DAPO wiring). One crank was enough to kill the module. Took me awhile to figure out what had happened...

QUOTE (lapuwali @ Jun 8 2005, 04:18 PM)

Did a similar thing with my first Unilite module (no CDI). Hooked up the red wire to the + post on the coil, and the black wire to the - post. I didn't bother to notice that the tach wire was also hooked to the + post, and the power wire to the - post (DAPO wiring). One crank was enough to kill the module. Took me awhile to figure out what had happened...

would you believe me if I told you I did the same thing???

darn replacement modual cost almost 50% the cost of the distributor (at the place I bought it from).....

i would think it can opened up and repaired

Chris, you have to be more careful. Maybe it was a case of late night colorblindnest. I have a way's to go to get to the rewiring stage, hope I don't get it.

Don't feel bad Chris...most people have done stuff like that before. I know I have. I hooked up the battery backwards on my stepvan like a total ass. What's that crackling sound? Luckily it just fried a fusable link...easy fix.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

I'm feeling much better now.
I successfully installed the replacement module tonight, and the engine is up and running again.
The car goes on the trailer tomorrow, and I head for Lime Rock in the afternoon.

i hooked up a whole stereo system one time, custom install, eq, amp, etc...hooked up one wire backwards while the battery was still hooked up and zaped the whole deal...