I have posted my issue with my door gaps before and looking for help again.
As a lesson to those who wish to install stiffening kits and do not use the correct weld process or not use proper bracing while installing kits.
In my case I instructed the welder/installer on how to brace the door openings, measurements to maintain and photos. Well he didn't following any of this and..... Well I'm lucky to have any gap at all.
I have posted my heartbreak and anger as to what happened to my 914, I am posting again for the purpose of maybe some new eyes seeing my dilemma.
I have spent a lot of money on my 914 over the years, so I do not want to give in and "Just Drive It".
I am asking if anyone know and have some knowledge of a uni-body straitening machine that can correct the problem.
Not only do I have the drivers compartment, but the longitudinal clamshell stiffening kit from Restoration Design.
Maybe some cutting or just find another body, I would really like to keep my car together.
If you can help I would be forever grateful. Thank you. Mike

Celette

I can fix it but I'm only at the opposite end of of the country

Well Rick, that really is good news.................. Being able to fix it. let me see if I can find someone closer. BTW it's beautiful country where you live Rick. Mike

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=52631

Hhhmmm I would talking to the body guy...politely of course and mention the problem,if you are talking about reinforcing of the longs from inside the car the only remedy is to cut them and relieve the stress caused by the welding,refit doors ,fit braces when right and reweld,theres only a small limit to shimming door hinges and that won't work for you.
Hey I'am not a body repair guy so I expect people with more knowledge than me to step in,these cars flex a lot that's something I do know ....no matter if they are rusty or not .

I had the same problem with door gaps after I got the car too hot when welding in the stiffening kit. Right or wrong I got the gaps back to where they were before I installed the kit. Finding someone with a cellete bench would be the best way to go

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...69&hl=longs

Andy and Travis, thank you so much for offering up these threads. I felt hopeless thinking I would not have a solution to fix my 914. I am one happy guy from Texas. I have to go to California for a couple of weeks, when I get back I will get started. Again, thank you so much, this car mean a lot to me. I did three rotations in Iraq working for a contractor, I used some of the money I saved to by this car. Mike

I want to take measurements just to see how far the gaps are off. I am looking at the 914 body measurement diagram "H", I see the "H" pointing between (Between hinge and door lock pallor). It says hinge, but is it really the area where the interior light button is located? Thanks Mike

Yes, the fourth column in that table provides more details:
"Measured between bulge for door contact switch and depression for door lock plate"

Perfect:......... Thank You. Mike

I've had the same question about specifically how to measure. Here's a recent thread that may help:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=327005

I had the same problem when the cage was extend to the suspension point. Guys doing the welding were stock car experts not unibody. Doors would not close...so, cut the bars. It opened up 1/4 inch, had them weld in a spacer/gusset and all fit well. I did move the passenger door forward by grinding the face of the door hinge a strong 1/16 (worked good). Best, Mark

Sorry for all the questions, but I want to make it right..... My gap problem is on the aft end of the doors, any suggestions an where I would make my cutline?
Thanks to all of you. Mike

Mike, show us a few pictures again.

we go through that all of the time, cars delivered to us where someone installed the rocker clamshell and or the inner rockers etc, and altered the door gaps, easy todo do not beat yourself up over it. We attach the 914 to our frame machine and then use our measuring stick and factory measurements to restore the gaps. Pretty easy

I will never forget the time, when, as a young punk ( 32 years old, and priding myself in my ability to use a torch) repaired my battery area including inner fender well PERFECTLY. Standing back and admiring how nice my welds were, I casually pushed the passenger door closed, and low and behold it would not close!!!!! The heat had shrunken the body door gap! Wound up mounting it on our frame machine and stretching my six back to factory specs. Would have never thought that welding in this area would have done that since I was no where near the long inner rocker panel are, and they were strong

Sorry about not posting photos, something not right with the extension.
The passenger side has a 1/8" gap or less, the drivers side a little wider at the aft. The front gaps of the doors seem fine.
The doors close, but with a hard push. Mike