Who knows how to mount a hydraulic slave on the transaxle to actuate the clutch fork? I bought a wilwood push/pull slave that I plan to use. I would ratheruse a hydraulic release bearing like the tilton ones... but they don't make specifically for the 901. Anybody used the tilton universal release bearing? Is it possible to modify the case to mount it?

WEVO makes a 901 hydraulic release bearing similar to the Tilton.


A few people here have mated a cylinder like you mention...do a search...you'll find pictures and parts needed...

mike,

so the bearing itself is hydraulicly activated?

IE - no throw out fork?


too cool! got pics/info?

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jun 9 2005, 04:52 PM)

mike, so the bearing itself is hydraulicly activated? IE - no throw out fork? too cool! got pics/info?

I thought all of the ones just operated the fork?

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jun 9 2005, 02:52 PM)

mike, so the bearing itself is hydraulicly activated? IE - no throw out fork? too cool! got pics/info?

bingo....yea, pretty cool....some factory GM cars have them as well, I browsed thru the replacment catalog to try to make something, but that another one of those projects that'll never get done

sounds pretty cool. picturing what it would look like. circular thing with a braring inside of it... in/out fittings....

how does it attach to the trans is my main thought???

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jun 9 2005, 01:58 PM)

sounds pretty cool. picturing what it would look like. circular thing with a braring inside of it... in/out fittings.... how does it attach to the trans is my main thought???

I haven't seen the WEVO unit, but attaching it would be pretty easy. You could remove the pivot ball and have a bolt go in there through an "ear" on the bearing. It doesn't have to be all that secure, you're mostly trying to prevent it from rattling or rotating.

I converted my Mustang to hydraulic. (67 car, 80s trans... 67 linkage won't fit the trans, 80s cable won't fit the pedals) On the next design iteration it will be getting a hydraulic release bearing. (I think I'm on iteration #5, the most drivable yet)

One word of advice.. do NOT, under ANY circumstances, use a Pugeot master cylinder!

I though that Airsix had done this a while back, no?

QUOTE (Travis Neff @ Jun 9 2005, 02:40 PM)

I though that Airsix had done this a while back, no?

Sort of. I didn't use a hydraulic TO bearing, though I thought about it - it would have been trick. I ended up doing it the low-tech easy way instead because I couldn't find anyone who'd done the Hydro-TO and I didn't want to make a big mess trying on my own. See my blog for pictures/description of how I ended up doing it.

-Ben M.

The wevo is an annular hydraulic t/o bearing that replaces the guide sleeve on the tranny, secure on the two studs that the guide sleeve bolts to.

Can you do the same thing with a 911 pull clutch??

Thank you everyone...
I just looked at the wevo clutch release for 901. $765 at smart racing. That is more than I think it should cost. Hmmm. I think the tilton one is around $300 but it is not specifically set up for the 901 case.

airsix... how much did your setup cost... looks great!

Airsix,
how did the setup work? better than the cable? same? did it have enough travel?

That is exactly what the wilwood slave I have looks like. I guess That is what I will do until i have the money to buy the expensive release bearing from tilton or wevo.

Airsix,
Did you have to but a spring on the pedal to get it to return? Does the bearing touch the pressure plate fingers all the time?

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Jun 9 2005, 03:49 PM)

airsix... how much did your setup cost... looks great!

Well, except for all the grime. I think I payed about $45 for the slave, $50 or so for the Tilton master-cyl. and maybe $25 for plumbing and a 2psi check valve because the slave is higher than the MC. The flex line is just a brake flex-hose. The rest of the lines are steel and run right through the stock clutch cable tube. I've got a heavy KEP StageII clutch (Thanks Mueller!) and it feels like stock but with shorter throw. I like it.

Mounting the slave cyl was a piece of cake. The hardest part was mounting the MC. The pan has a bunch of curves where you need to mount it, so I had to cut out a spot and weld in a flat patch so there was a flat surface at the correct angle to mount to. You can see a picture in my Blog. Other than that it was easy.


-Ben M.

Someone on here there are photos of someone's setup where, instead of running the clutch MC next to the brake MC, they went UP from the pedal pan. The MC was more or less vertical, and inside the cabin, but still behind the footboard. For some reason I'm remembering they use adapted 944 parts. This looked much easier to construct than your setup, Ben. I think they only had to drill a hole in the front bulkhead for the hose to the fluid reservoir.

I was struck by this, as the original Minis also had vertical MCs for both brake and clutch, directly above the pedals (but in the engine bay, in this case, as the pedals hung from a shelf where the top of the shelf was part of the firewall). This is such a compact and tidy setup I'm surprised I don't see it used more often. There's enough room one could probably run three MCs in there, two for a proper split braking system, and one for the clutch.

Bit OT but not much.

I have a customers '71 911T and it's clutch is super hard...I've been told this is normal for this year.

Would a hydraulic set-up help?

QUOTE

I have a customers '71 911T and it's clutch is super hard...I've been told this is normal for this year.

actually no that is not at all normal.

check the guide sleeve for wear, the pedal bushings etc

The guide sleeve is part of the cable right? Just replaced it.

Pedal bushings hmmm...could be right on there!

How many hours to redo the bushings?

Thanks

Might NOT want to ask a Mazda p/u owner, or Jeep Cherokee owner about slave cylinder leaks. 5-6 hours for what would take 15 minutes on a Toyota or BMW, and over a hundred bucks for something that would cost $30 for a conventional type slave cylinder...................................... The Cap'n

The guide sleeve is the thingy on the transmission that the t/o bearing rides on.

they can wear and gall if not maintained

pedal bushings can be done in a few hours if all goes well.

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jun 9 2005, 05:53 PM)

Might NOT want to ask a Mazda p/u owner, or Jeep Cherokee owner about slave cylinder leaks. 5-6 hours for what would take 15 minutes on a Toyota or BMW, and over a hundred bucks for something that would cost $30 for a conventional type slave cylinder...................................... The Cap'n

true, it would be much easier to replace a cylinder on the outside of the transmission than have to drop the transmission to get to it

the external master/slave sounds better once you put it that way

QUOTE (TimT @ Jun 9 2005, 08:57 PM)

The guide sleeve is the thingy on the transmission that the t/o bearing rides on. they can wear and gall if not maintained pedal bushings can be done in a few hours if all goes well.

Thanks Tim...the guide sleeve was fine...just did a R&R because the pivot bolt broke. Over-extending because of a busted pedal board.

I'll do the pedal bushings.

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jun 9 2005, 05:53 PM)

Might NOT want to ask a Mazda p/u owner, or Jeep Cherokee owner about slave cylinder leaks. 5-6 hours for what would take 15 minutes on a Toyota or BMW, and over a hundred bucks for something that would cost $30 for a conventional type slave cylinder...................................... The Cap'n

Haha, I used a mazda pickup slave cylinder for the first iteration of the hydraulic clutch for my Mustang.. I sure picked a winner there. (french to japanese flare adapters are NOT easy to find either)

QUOTE (lapuwali @ Jun 9 2005, 04:22 PM)

Someone on here there are photos of someone's setup where, instead of running the clutch MC next to the brake MC, they went UP from the pedal pan. The MC was more or less vertical, and inside the cabin, but still behind the footboard. For some reason I'm remembering they use adapted 944 parts.

Yes, I forgot whos it is. It looked very nice. There was a little trimming of the tunnel above the throttle bell-crank but the rest looked like it was just about a bolt-in install. I would like to have done mine that way had I known about it.

-Ben M.