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amfab
Firstly I must say how amazing so many of you are for the work you do restoring these cars. I continue to be overwhelmed as I dive deeper and deeper into my first auto restoration of any kind. I keep taking things apart and have no idea how I will get them back together.

I was trying to keep my project isolated to the longs, then the firewall, then redoing the POs bad Hellhole repair. Now I have thrown out all caution and decided to strip the car completely.

I pulled the rest of the harness (the front end of the car) out yesterday and the headlights, gas tank, windshield, dashboard, ventilation and bumpers etc. It’s only the front and rear suspension and a couple of trim pieces left

One thing no one mentions much is storage, I have a small house and man do all the parts take up a lot of space.

Anyway, I am going to finish stripping the car then have it sandblasted and primered. I am curious about the doors. They are in pretty good shape, but I’m thinking I am going this far, should I just have them blasted too?

How hard is getting the glass and regulator stuff out of em? If it’s a major pain maybe I should just deal with them without disassembling.

Thanks in advance for any advice,

-Andrew
76-914
The first time is a PITA but you'll wade through it. Do one door at a time so you have the other as a model. The most daunting task will be removing the aluminum channel that the outer fuzzy strip attaches to. Make note of the position of the adjustable piece. It has a 13mm nut on the bottom of the door. Try to re-install it the same. That will save you a few minutes. To remove the glass you must remove this piece which is also the piece that the small triangle window is part of. It is lifted out the top. After you get everything back together, drive it a week or so and if your happy with it then replace the vapor barrier and door card. If there isn't a vapor barrier then any cheap painters plastic works with a little spray adhesive. I've done 4 doors this year so if you want to drag one over to Temecula I'll show you how. beerchug.gif
Costa05
I completely understand the space issue you mention. I do have a third car garage door that i resorted to hanging parts from with wire hangers which works well. Wide shallow boxes the same size stack boxed parts well.
Click to view attachment
mgphoto
I wouldn't sand blast the entire door, metal will overheat and warp, sand blast the edges where the strength is, than chemical removal with aircraft stripper, the center sections.
Did this to my front lid worked out great.

Click to view attachment

Actually garnet blasted.
amfab
QUOTE(76-914 @ May 21 2018, 02:46 PM) *

I've done 4 doors this year so if you want to drag one over to Temecula I'll show you how.


I may take you up on that.


QUOTE(mgphoto @ May 21 2018, 09:39 PM) *

I wouldn't sand blast the entire door, metal will overheat and warp, sand blast the edges where the strength is, than chemical removal with aircraft stripper, the center sections.


Good to know— I guess I don't have to sand blast.
I just was wondering how difficult the the disassembly and reassembly is because I would like to strip the doors down and repaint inside and out if its not too much extra work.

-Andrew
76-914
Just make note of the order in which things are assembled/disassembled. Pic's are your friend. beerchug.gif
jmitro
QUOTE(mgphoto @ May 21 2018, 11:39 PM) *

I wouldn't sand blast the entire door, metal will overheat and warp, sand blast the edges where the strength is,


I still don't understand why people continue to say this. My doors were bead blasted inside and out. no warping.

while you are at it, 914rubber.com makes a lot of great replacement parts such as the door stop rebuild kit
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