Full Version: Any 914 horn button retrofit?
The rubber button and ring combination is really annoying - the button/horn keeps getting knocked out of alignment with road bumps and stuff, leaving the horn loose and not/barely working. Keep having to redo (or replace) button and wire. Any clever alternate fixes to this? Thanks!!!
QUOTE(StarBear @ May 25 2018, 06:43 AM) 
The rubber button and ring combination is really annoying - the button/horn keeps getting knocked out of alignment with road bumps and stuff, leaving the horn loose and not/barely working. Keep having to redo (or replace) button and wire. Any clever alternate fixes to this? Thanks!!!
Buy a new one.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperC..._pg3.htm#item14
Yeah, been doing that - replacing it every 3-4 years. Fortunately not a big ticket item, but thought a) everyone has these 914 typical problems and b) someone smart has figured out a more thoughtful workaround. Still trying to find that little female spade connector - mine broke off a dozen years ago and eyes just can't "thread" the wire into that little hole any more. :+(
Same old story, the new ones are not the same as the originals. Rubber compound is not the same.
I run a hockey puck horn button, but I've never had any issues with the rubber cuff.
They do have to be very carefully installed, but no issues.
They do have to be very carefully installed, but no issues.
The latches for your horn button may be bent, or the securing screws may be loose.
Thanks all for your input. Worked with my long-time buddy Jerry Rigg to fashion a female spade connector (broke 20+ years ago) for the wire onto the male spade (can't see that tiny hole anymore) and added three #6 SS washers underneath the horn ring plate in the batwing to "move" the plate a bit closer to the base plate on the steering wheel. Also tightened screws (they WERE loose) and replaced the button with a new one, so now very tight and firm. 
the 73-76 horn base plate was always a problem as if the screws loosened and the horn boot was dried out, the wire would break off the tiny male spade made into the horn button. We finally made a new horn base plate to solve this broken spade problem, and Jorge at sierra madre makes an insulator kit that we too sell.
Thanks all for your input. Worked with my long-time buddy Jerry Rigg to fashion a female spade connector (broke 20+ years ago) for the wire onto the male spade (can't see that tiny hole anymore) and added three #6 SS washers underneath the horn ring plate in the batwing to "move" the plate a bit closer to the base plate on the steering wheel. Also tightened screws (they WERE loose) and replaced the button with a new one, so now very tight and firm.
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(StarBear @ May 30 2018, 12:35 PM)
Thanks all for your input. Worked with my long-time buddy Jerry Rigg to fashion a female spade connector (broke 20+ years ago) for the wire onto the male spade (can't see that tiny hole anymore) and added three #6 SS washers underneath the horn ring plate in the batwing to "move" the plate a bit closer to the base plate on the steering wheel. Also tightened screws (they WERE loose) and replaced the button with a new one, so now very tight and firm.
The engagement lugs can get bent and the batwing/hockey puck won't compress the rubber cuff fully.
The aftermarket ones seems to be a softer rubber than the genuine part or atleast that's what I found.
The aftermarket ones seems to be a softer rubber than the genuine part or atleast that's what I found.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.