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JFG
I need a liitle more torque than my wrench has on it's scale so that i can correctly tighten the rear axle nuts.

I've been looking at torque multipliers but as i've never seen one before i don't know what they're like.

I read the descriptions and they talk about releasing nuts and how easy it can be but they don't all say about tightening. It may be obvious to those who have used them but are there versions that only undo and others that only tighten or do both?
Mueller
Used one a few months ago to remove and then tighten some bolts to 600ftlbs.

It was designed for assembly work. Not cheap.

This is the style I used.

Click to view attachment
Mueller
Ideally breaker bar used with it for removal, then torque wrench for assembly.
Andyrew
Rear axle nuts don't need to be torqued. I pop then on and off all the time as it's my preferred method of removing the CV. I use a breaker bar and a 3ft cheater bar for removal and then for install I stand on the breaker bar and give it a couple bounces. ~250lbs of force. Or I use my cheater and get it good and tight.
JFG
I just bought a more powerful torque wrench to do the job properly. I couldn't physicall see a multiplier unless i bought one online.

Thanks for the input.
Dave_Darling
Well, since torque is in ft-lbs, if you know how much you weigh, you can figure out how long a cheater bar you need to stand on to put a given torque on something.

I think with my fat ass, I'd only need a 1-foot bar.... wink.gif

--DD
Mark Henry
I torque everything, I just waited for torque wrenches to go on sale.
After a few years of sale watching I now have 4 of them, from an inch pound to a 250 pound.

Doing 996 I have to have the inch pound, frickin alloy they used is as soft as butter.
Just finished repairing the M6 threads on 996 manifolds, 10 out 12 holes striped. rolleyes.gif
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