From the measurements and me pretending that I understand math - no support should be required at all.

If you want to be sure just look up the specs on the manufacture's site.

Example Aeroquip
FC363-12
Cover Material Stainless Steel Braid
Dash Size 12
Hose Family Teflon
Max Temperature © 204
Max Temperature (F) 400
Min Temperature © -54
Min Temperature (F) -65
Operating Pressure (PSI) 1100
Operating Pressure (bar) 76
Product Line Aeroquip
Tube Material Teflon
Agency Listings: Government Specification FDA, USCG/MMT
Burst Pressure (bar) 303
Burst Pressure (psi) 4400
Description Convoluted PTFE-Nonconductive tube
Family Hose
General Application Chemical, food, water and waste handling, and various transfer applications
Hose Base Number FC363
Inside Diameter (in) 0.81
Inside Diameter (mm) 20.6
Min Bend Radius (in) 3.75
Min Bend Radius (mm) 95.3
Min Kink Radius (in) 2
Min Kink Radius (mm) 50.8
Outside Diameter (in) 1.06
Outside Diameter (mm) 26.9
Reinforcement Material Stainless steel single wire braid cover
Vacuum (inHg) 28
Vacuum (kpa) 94.8

Made me a thingamadoodle Harder to make than I thought. Not sure how much I like it, oh well it was something to do this weekend.

Looks great..

Got any progress pics on that one? That's a pretty complex shape. Can't recall you sport and English wheel. Curious how you tackled it. Nice work, as usual.

Its a bit horrific. I did it in 20 gauge as I have a 1/4 sheet of it lying around and need to find a way to use it.

I tried doing it in one piece and gave up. I did 2 pieces each with a 90 degree flange and stretched them to make the initial curve and welded them together. I put a dolly in a vice and then spent all day beating the hell out of it to get the shape I was after, then used the shrinking disk to help smooth it out.

I used the pic from your car as inspiration.

Here are some profile shots. Its mostly there and a little body filler and it will look good. I tried welding some pinholes and after beating on it so much it turned into swiss cheese from the heat. Its not structural, so good enough I guess.

Also, a pic of the one I tried to make out of a single sheet of metal

wow ..mine was the easy button...Great Job Travis

glue some perlon on it it will be good

Awesome work! Thanks for sharing the details.

Thanks guys, it means a lot coming from you two.

I forgot I did some more work this weekend. I got my shinking disk and shinky dinked the floor. Of course I went overboard but I was seriously entertained for the day.

Is that the coolest tool or what?

BTW, hows the rigidity of the 20ga piece after it is formed? I am interested in your fabbing technique because have a secret project I want to try on my project in a couple months that requires similar compound curves. I'm going to try my hand at flow forming and was thinking of even going to 22ga things easier. If the flow forming doesn't work, I'll probably need to piece it together. I need to get a sandbag and some better beating hammers to have those in the arsenal too. I just love this stuff. Don't have a clue what I'm doing, but it sure is fun.

The shrinking disk is like magic!

After putting in the flanges, and the J bend it is pretty stout. When I started you could bend it pretty easily by hand.

If I get courageous enough towards the end of the project I think I will try to replicate the GT shroud in 20g steel. I'll need to get a bead roller and figure out how to use it first.

The time spent on it is also what I experienced and this went with this as it's basically the same just without the huge radius that I felt didn't really matter.. That's what I ended up selling..

Btw looks very good.Click to view attachment

I see now why you made these the way that you did. The radius curve is a non functional detail and hard to pull off. While the ones you made do appear to be bigger. When looking at mine as I was making it, I see it is about the same size. Having a flat vs rounded shape along the top gives a different illusion.

having one in my GT ...I can say the larger radius makes for a nice dead pedal kinda feeling for my foot..

You've started something..

I just could justify spending more time on them and make it so people would actually buy them.. At 100 some odd dollars was still a challenge.. I may mod mine for a dead pedal in the future..

should only take a couple of hours ....

I only had 20 minutes.

I had a duct cover that looks similar to Ben's that I was playing around with, I cut the height to 2.25 and the depth to about 1.25 to keep it tight as possible to the wheel well. Found a metal scrap on the floor to mock the foot rest of the dead pedal. Bent it so the dead rest is a little further back in the footwell. I am gonna have to call this the dead duck.

love that dead pedal!

My initial mock up for the pedal was way too close to the clutch pedal. From the "show me your dead pedal" thread I see what I need to do.

I build a new oil line cover and bent a piece for the dead pedal to see how I like it. There will be more changes before I glue it up together.

Switching gears from the oil line cover and dead pedal. I better finish off the front trunk floor.

I got my tow hook off the chunk of floor I cut out. I bent it a little to give some room to hook. Then, when looking at the factory GT pics on Armando's site I see that these cars has re-used the tow hook but dropped it down a bit with a piece of metal that looked like a frisbee.

So I bent up a box. I will weld the hook to it, then the box to the floor. I screwed up on my bends and you can see one side is a little taller than the other. Almost looks like I intended it to work out this way from the pics.

I used etch primer and scratched away the surface that I was going to weld. Weld through primer is super expensive and that crap always clogs, even if you store the can upside down. Plus you need to scratch away the surface anyhow..

Welded in and a little burn validation

Travis nice job there, and I must say your welds are looking better and better each time. And your metal fab skills have also improved. Doing a great job, can't wait to see what you have planned next.

In place. I didn't get all the etch primer off on a few holes and that gave me a couple problems. I am ready to retire this leather jacket I bought at goodwill for $10. Welding upside down is no bueno. I have to stop what I am doing every few minutes because the hot metal that falls on me burns through the coat and the inside of the jacket smolders all over the place

As the late Bob Ross would say, "Happy little accident."

Thanks Stephen. I still don't know what I am doing - but things are getting better with practice.

I cut out the rust in the rocker and patched it today. Then got the cooler line duct glued in. Needs more finishing, I will tackle that another day!

Forgot, got the bulkhead hole opened up about as far as I can & got most of the surface rust out with acid and a small metal brush. I see now in the pic I have a little more cleanup to do along the top. The duct is not a perfect rectangle, it is angled along the top from the lower left to upper right.

Yes they are an odd shape.. Mine looks the same.. Can't make them rectangular.

Oh Boy! I sent out my hinges for Oscar's special treatment and got them back today. I am afraid what these would look like if I tried to take this on. The zinc plate is a nice touch

In the box I got two unexpected surprises. Thank you Oscar!! This has made my day @ValcoOscar

Another part to patch, the metal is pitted all the way through in a couple of spots. The piece I pulled out I could crinkle up in one hand.

This escalated quickly.. When I welded in my patch some of the creases from a previous crash came back in full force. I popped out the rear window and can now hammer/ dolly out some of the crinkely dinks. I got some paint stripper and POR15 is no match for this stuff. Pretty satisfying listening to it crackle and peeling it off like old sunburnt skin

Like a tweaker picking at his face..

Have fun with that patch!

I am having no fun with this patch. I did get a bunch of the crinkled up metal in other areas fairly straight though.

If you see where I cut, I left a the lip of the indent and was going to weld to that.

Well it was like a game of whack a mole blowing holes along the whole damn thing as the metal was too thin and I was set too hot on the welder. When i got the metal finally all glued down the indent along the middle was pretty much flat along the bottom seam

I don't care too much if it is ugly in the interior, it will be covered. Would like it to look a little more seamless in the engine bay. I am thinking this is a cut out and do-over, I could extend a couple inches along the indent as I found some more pitted metal when I stripped all the por15 off.

Oh how I can relate to this whole sentiment...
Travis your deadpedal and oil line cover is very cool.
Looking good mate.

Stop! You are giving me flashbacks. Boy does that sound familiar. I spent a LOT of time trying to make those patches look perfect and thought I had succeeded. Then the sexy glossy paint went on and this showed up.

Click to view attachment

And this is what I'm working on tonight to fix it.

Click to view attachment

I did a little better on the other side, but boy did I waste a lot of time on it.

Click to view attachment

Keep up the great work

Well it is not the worst and it sure as hell can be a lot better. Lets see if I can make a patch piece first before I commit to cutting bait.

This is just about the right width. Had to get ingenious on how to do this 4 bend so close together, I can only do 2 primary (center) bends on my cheap-o brake.

There are a lot of little things that only YOU would know about that no one else would spot. funny how it eats at ya.

Out it comes. The metal on the bottom (darkened metal) is paper thin. I will cut a little further down as I have some extra on my patch.

Test fit and it looks like a good start.

I like my battle scars to show. Of course, I primed here and painted it black, but it shows.....

Click to view attachment

That looks a better job and similar to how I repaired mine. I too was limited to what my brake could do. Nicely done though and it's always good to revisit something if you think it's not quite right. The reward of getting it right is worth the hassle!

time to feed the OCD. I cut a little more, if the pic looks like it is paper thin towards the lower left - it is! I am down to better metal. I am contemplating patching the entire flat area, there is some weird built up tension. When I cut the piece(s) loose the back wall instantly did a pucker.

Fitting the new piece. I am no good about putting my tools away so a little improvisation with some allen wrenches was needed. I will fine tune the bends a little more too.

A view from the side you will see. Hmm. I am going to attempt to remake this and shoot for a sharper line in by bend.

Made another test piece to see if I can get the profile a little sharper.

A bit too wide maybe? Depends on how you squint. But life is short. If you like, I bet we can get a signed affidavit absolving you of all guilt. Theses things bug the holy crp outa me. Not sure there’s a cure either.