Hello 914 Racing experts:

I've had the same suspension setup for many years and would like to upgrade to reduce body roll and improve rotation capability of the car at turn in. Car is used primarily for PCA track days. Here is my current set up:

Full welded cage tied into rear shock towers
16 X 7 front 225/45 Toyo 888R
16 X 8 Rear 245/45 Toyo 888R
23 mm front torsion bars
180lb progressive rear springs
Bilstein shocks front and rear
Weltmeister chassis stiffening kit
boxed rear trailing arms
Delrin rear suspension bushings
Rubber front bushings
turbo tie rods


Engine: Raby 2270 180hp

Upgrade Plan:

Install 19mm (smaller size) Tarett Front Sway bar
Install Tarett front bushing kit
upgrade rears springs to 250 lb. with Tarett coil over kit
install Tarett front monoballs
Maintain current shocks even though 30 years old


What do you guys think? Car has great grip currently and is a lot of fun to drive.

Threads are always better with photos. Here is the main issue I would like to improve. Too much body roll.
Click to view attachment

If you are running a limited slip, my 1st upgrade would be a rear sway bar, and see what that does. I'd go with one thing at a time and see if it's to your liking.

I run 22mm torsion bars, 250lb rear springs and a 21 or 22mm sway bar. Not much body roll. That being said, I don't track my car.

large front bar, I think 24, 22 or 23 front bars, 180 rears, off and on with the rear bar, no lean.

i currently have no front or rear sway bar. My thinking is I have stiff front torsion bars so I could go with the smaller size tarett front sway bar then increase rear spring rate to match increased roll stiffness up front.

Track car - big front anti-sway bar!

My experience was s that you need bushings. Smaller torsions. And a giant front bar

Yep I followed that formula - 22 t/b, large Smart Racing swaybar, and needle bearings in front. Rear has coilovers with a factory swaybar. I actually can't recall the spring rate in there right now as it's been years, but they're stiff (250-350). Trans has a quaife TBD. Car was much more squirrely and harder to keep power down without the rear swaybar.

The struts/shocks of course make a large difference as well and can get pricey.

You are welcome to swing by and measure my set up. I am just down 26 on Ward's chapel Rd. My car is currently on the lift.

As you do your suspension upgrades be sure you have a tuna can or deeper sump on your engine....

Oh yeah been down that road already. Started with Accusump - found oil pressure maintained in corners but then dropped once all oil expelled from the reservoir. I think oil pump took too long to re-prime after being starved. Then tried tuna can - not big enough so now I have deep sump. Only concern is low clearance of sump.

I would advise against the large front swaybar. Most people have a car that understeers really bad and they just deal with it.

We have 350 springs (coilovers) and 375lb rear springs. I made a front rollbar that is between the 2 sizes normally offered. I also had to make custom spherical bearing swaybar mounts because the normal setups will bind as the chassis flexes.

For shocks, I have custom valved Bilsteins witht he valving based on our car. I have shock pots, track temps, and more in the data system so I can tune to our car, not just what people say.

Get a bigger front torsion bar. You can adjust it to be softer. Do your front bushings. Your front torsion bars are way too much. I'd do 21mm then monkey with adjusting your front away bar. 30 year old shocks. Get them rebuilt or replaced.