One night last week when I couldn't go back to sleep, I began thinking about the fuel pressure gauge. I had initially installed it on the fuel line at the rear of the throttle bodies. That was before I installed the fuel pressure regulator and the filter on the firewall. It came to me that it would be better to have the gauge installed there as it would be easier to read and would not be subject to engine vibration. So, today, I moved it and then made a new line to connect the throttle bodies.





I spent the rest of the day finishing up the wiring on the left side. On the COP's, each one is individually grounded to the motor. I used one of the valve cover studs for that ground. The black/white wire and the red wire go to all of the COP's. I had to tap into the main red and black/white line at each unit. I also ran the wiring for the crank fire and the head temp sensor.

Between taking the dog to the groomer and picking her up, I got the right side done as well as beginning to run everything to the center. It is very time consuming figuring out what part of the wiring to apply the shrink tubing to, soldering the wire connections, installing the next pieces of shrink tubing, and then moving on to the next one.

I like running the wiring along the fuel line to keep everything away from the throttle linkage, but I am concerned about putting too much weight on the line. I think I will find a rod of some type to run between the two sides, attach the rod at each end and then attach the harness to that rod. From the center of that fuel line, I plan on taking all the wires up to a bulkhead connector.

We had more wind today than during the previous hurricane. I had to remove this limb so my wife can get into the driveway. We had quite a bit of rain but everything passed through quickly.



Yesterday I realized that I had to modify the engine tin around the cam sync adapter. Normally the engine tin here fits flush against the back of the block and there is a seal between the tin and the cam carrier. After measuring the diameter of the cam sync adapter, I needed to drill a three inch hole. I didn't have a hole saw that large but my buddy and neighbor did have one. He has every tool known to mankind!! I took the tin to him to show him what I needed to do. He took pity on me and proceeded to drill the hole in his garage. BTW, compared to his garage, my garage is filthy!!! After getting back to my garage, I drilled a hole and installed a grommet for the cam sync adapter harness.

















I also installed the rest of the engine tin except for the piece on the right rear. I can't install it until i remove the engine from the engine stand.

As I mentioned yesterday, I felt I needed to install a rod of some kind along the fuel line for support. A quick rummage through my metal bin turned up a 1/4" rod. After cutting it to length, I covered it with 1/2" shrink tube so it would blend in and to reduce chafing.















Since I won't have any spark plug wires, I inserted rubber plugs in the holes in the tin and the fan shroud.

Yesterday was spent cleaning up the yard after the latest hurricane and mowing the lawn! We are planning a motorhome trip for a year from now that will see us in Albuquerque for the balloon festival, as well as visiting other western destination points. To that end, I spent yesterday afternoon making reservations for that trip. There are so many RV travelers that, for some places and events, the reservations need to made this far in advance. A lady at a RV park in Moab, Utah said that she only had a few sites available that would accommodate our coach. September is their peak season.

I am at a standstill on the wiring, for a couple days, waiting for some terminals for the TPS sensor. MY 56mm wheel studs arrived yesterday so I installed them.





I had removed the left side exhaust when I was investigating the broken dowel a few weeks ago. My plan was to re-install it today. It then occurred to me that this would be the perfect time to clean the bottom of the motor while it was off. I proceeded to clean the entire bottom of the motor but ran out of time to install the exhaust. But a dirty job has been completed.

I have to toot my son's horn today. His project has been to install a Tesla motor into a 1979 911SC. His maiden voyage was today.

https://youtu.be/sQbKBapxK4U

https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showt...ad.php?t=192602

Thanks for sharing your Son's progress

My wife curbed one of the wheels on her Fiat 500 Abarth on one of the granite curbs used in Salisbury, NC. After washing the car, I spent some time working on the curb rash to at least make it less noticeable.

The terminals for the TPS plug came today and were installed this afternoon.







Now that all of the sensors were wired, I could finish running the wiring harness. I ran everything to the center of the rear fuel line.







I labeled all of the sensor wires. Now comes the tricky part. I am going to use a 47 pin bulkhead connector. It uses Deutsch terminals which are more compact. Making sure all of those connections on both the female and male connectors are correct will be critical.

Spent lots of days staring at them in my younger years. Military stuff was done in all white wires. And you where lucky if they had numbered them on the one off stuff I was working on. Spent a lot of time with a Ohm meter and a sharpie.

BTW, you can print labels and the seal them with clear shrink wrap. Or get the printable stuff, but that can be $$$ I just print it on paper, or use a fine sharpie to label it or number it, then slip a piece of clear heat shrink over it. Makes it much easier to remember when you get into it at a latter date.

Then I will draw up the schematics and number or label the corresponding marks so I know what is what.

I guess we ordered so much wire it was easier to just stock a single color. I see now I can get it in any color I want, that would have given me back months of time. Im sure I would have found some other way to waste it with my youth.

Here is another video of my son's car.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39_fRAmbzio...eature=youtu.be

After voting this morning, I hooked up the tach wire I forgot yesterday. I had marked it when I removed it from the electronic ignition. It is connected to the main engine harness with a green wire. The TEC ECU uses a brown wire so I the green and brown together. I also routed the engine harness and tied it in place.







In the rear trunk I drilled a 1 3/4" hole for the bulkead connector. I then installed shrink tube on the ECU harness in preparation for wiring the bulkhead connector.

Today was spent inserting the wires into the seal for the bulkhead connector. I did one at a time on both the female and male ends. Each wire was documented on my terminal wiring sheet. For reference sake, I marked the top of each seal so it corresponded with the blown up photo of the terminal numbers. It would be even more difficult to get these wires in the right holes without the blown up photo. It was still a painstaking process trying to make sure each wire was in the same place on both ends.


I did have time to crimp three of the female terminals. The female terminals are used on the male plug while the female plug uses the male terminals. To crimp the Deutsch terminals I had to change the dies on my crimper.

I spent yesterday crimping the Deutsch terminals. I marked the top of the bulkhead connector and the wire seal to make sure I get the wires in the right hole. I inserted the larger wires first in the center of the connector all went well. However, when I tried to insert the other wires, I discovered that the terminals were too big at the crimp end to fit into the holes. After some research, I found that there are three sizes of terminals, 1.0mm. 1.6mm and 2.4mm. I had the 1.6mm terminals which fit into the five holes for larger wires but no 1.0mm terminals. I have them on order and, when they arrive, I get to crimp nearly all of the wires again! These connectors have been an ongoing learning process.












My fuel line with the -6AN fittings arrived yesterday from Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing. Since I am at a standstill on the wiring, I decided to insert the feed and return lines through the tunnel. Chris's instructions say this is a two man job. I removed the shifter as per his instructions so I could access the line in the tunnel. After fighting the first line for an hour by myself, I called my buddy to see if he could help. It still took us a bit to get both lines ran but we were ultimately successful. To get Chris's line to work I had to hog out the hole on the firewall so the -6 AN fitting would pass through. Once both lines were in place, I slit the front grommet and then inserted it over the lines and into the hole. I had to slit the grommets at the rear as well. Now I can run some more fuel lines and re-install the fuel tank. I sent Chris a photograph showing how I was going to run the line on the firewall. He used a protractor on that photo to get the correct angle for the fitting. It turned out perfectly.

Just incredible work. Between your car and your son's Tesla powered 911 I am without words.

Thanks.

I got up early Sunday morning to drive the Aston to Charlotte for Cars & Cappuccino. It is held every third Sunday from 9:00-11:00 for European cars only. Interesting cars are the norm here. I had a long discussion with a gentleman who is in the middle of building an "outlaw" 356. It should be a fun car.

Yesterday, with the NASCAR race on in the background in the garage, I worked on installing the high pressure fuel line from Chris's new line to the fuel filter on the firewall.







This morning I began by installing the return fuel line in the engine bay. The fitting on the end of the original line had 1/4 NPT thread. I could not find an adapter that went directly from NPT to -6 AN. I did find a 1/4 NPT female couple and I used an 1/4 NPT male to -6 AN male adapter. With that adapter in place, I ran the line over to the right and up through an existing hole to the battery area. From looking at photographs of 914-6 engine bays to see the relationship of the throttle bodies to the battery, I made an educated guess on the length.

This afternoon, I moved to the front of the car. I ran a-6 AN line from Chris's fuel line to the output side of the fuel tank. I then ran a short return line from the original fuel line to the access area for the fuel lines on the tank. After installing the tank, I ran a feed line from the fuel tank to the in side of the fuel pump. I had forgotten to order an inline filter for this line. It will be here shortly and I will install it above the fuel pump. To hook up the return line from the original fuel line back to the tank, I had to use an adapter to go from 3/8" fuel line to 1/4" fuel line.

Be careful that rubber hose to the pump doesn't get a restriction in the 180. Modern fuel hose doesn't hold it's shape well and has a tendency to kink in tight radius bends.
If it's 3/8" ID hose, I have a coil spring which will fit over it to help it stay round.

I want one but I couldn’t find it on your website.

It's not an inventoried product at this time. I'll send you an invoice.

Since I am waiting for parts for the fuel lines and the wiring, I decided to address the interior. I wasn't happy with the way the fabric was bunched up on the left door pocket. After removing it, I could see that I would have to remove all of the staples, straighten the fabric and then re-staple it. Since I don't have that size of staples, I decided to replace the door pocket with an extra one that came with the car. It is finished in the factory black and has a couple of nicks on the rear end of it. I like the looks of the all black door pocket better as it breaks up all of that gray on the door panel.

The right door panel needed a bit more attention as the fabric had come loose on the bottom and sides. To remove the door panel, I pulled back on the window crank cover to expose the screw. After removing the door handle screw to release that bezel and removing the arm rest, I popped the door panel off. Using some spray carpet adhesive, i re-attached everything. I haven't re-installed the panel yet as three of the clips were missing. They are on the way.

The fabric was also loose on the firewall seat panel. To work on it I separated the two sides from the center piece by removing the screws. To totally fix it, I would have had to remove a bunch of staples. So I pulled the fabric back as far as I could from the center of each panel, doused the cardboard panel and the fabric with as much adhesive as I could, waited for the adhesive to become tacky and then used my hands to smooth out the wrinkles from the outside to the center. While it is not perfect, it looks way better than when I started. There was also some loose fabric on the ends of the panel that I re-attached.

You've done a great job on this interior.
And I agree that a bit more black here and there helps to break up the light color.

The plan is to replace the interior carpet. To that end, I removed the old carpet. On the driver's side, the parking brake lever has to be removed. It also needed some attention so I bead blasted it and the muffler mount. I will have the muffler mount powder coated to better handle the heat but the parking brake lever cannot be powder coated unless I could remove the plastic handle. So I painted it.





Once I had the old carpet out, I used a plastic scraper to remove any of the old carpet that was still adhered to the car. Everything is now cleaned up and I am ready to install the new carpet.

Thanks. I have the black lower piece for the right door panel as well. It is in perfect condition.

I began laying out all of the carpet pieces to see how they fit and to decide in what order they should be installed. The carpet for the tunnel had a very small hole for the shifter and wasn't close to being large enough for the shifter that is in the car. To see how much the hole needed to be enlarged, I removed the shifter so I could slip the carpet over it. I cut four slits into the carpet and then slipped it over the shifter.







Since bumping one's head on the steering wheel is never fun, I removed it. In the process I discovered that it had a nearly two inch spacer. Since I have short legs and relatively long arms, I will probably remove the spacer when I re-install the steering wheel.



There were a couple of relays that were dangling under the dash on the left side. In the process of tying them up, I discovered this switch. At first I couldn't figure out what it was for as it has "L" and "R" written on it. Then I realized that it was for the O2 sensor gauge. There was only one gauge but the previous owner had O2 sensors in each side of the exhaust. This switch would allow him to monitor each exhaust separately on one gauge. Pretty clever!!! I won't be using the gauge as the ECU will be monitoring the O2 sensor.

Using the old vinyl pieces as patterns, I cut new pieces to cover the frame and tunnel in the passenger compartment. I was doing some shopping in Wal-Mart yesterday morning and, as I was walking by the fabric department, i wondered if they would have some vinyl for these pieces. They did and I bought a yard of the material. After cutting out each piece, I test fitted it and then applied adhesive to the pieces and to the car.












The next job was installing the carpet pieces on the left side. After doing some fitting and trimming, adhesive was applied and the carpet was set in place.

Before finishing up installing the carpet, I cleaned up the wiring under the dash and installed a different radio. I had this Blaupunkt Brisbane 230 installed in another car. It is very compact as it does not have a CD player. But it does have Bluetooth and both Aux and USB inputs.







With that out of the way, I finished the carpet installation. It was pretty straightforward. Compared to some other cars, the carpet install here was fairly easy and the carpet set from Auto Atlanta fit very well with very few adjustments needed. i did not glue the center sections as I may need access to the shifter and the rest of the tunnel. I am going to try fastening those pieces with Velcro.

It all looks super great.
The only thing I might have changed was putting black vinyl at the very top of the door cards....but that's being very picky.
Nice work!

I like that idea and will look into it.

I thought the same thing years ago when we did the gray interior. Adding the black adds nice contrast.

You're doing a bang up job on the interior!

I looked at the rear of the panel and everything is stapled in place. Not sure I want to tackle that. However, I used some spray dye on the dash of the '64 Corvette that I restored and it turned out great. After masking off the rest of the panel, that may work. Have to think about that.

Thanks for the compliment.

The bolster is only removable on the very early ('70) cars.

I decided against painting the top bolster as I am afraid it would not hold up long term.

I did use Velcro to attach the tunnel carpets.



Yesterday, while the NASCAR race was on, I taped the wires for the dome light to the firewall pad and then installed the firewall trim pad. I also installed the seat belts and center armrest.





Today I installed the seats to complete the interior. I am still waiting for the clips for the passenger door panel. The seats appear to be white but are actually a very light gray.










Months ago I found a slightly used set of Sisal floor mats on eBay.

Chris Foley's spring for the fuel line and my inline fuel filter arrived Saturday. I cut the line, inserted the spring and fastened the fuel filter in place. The fuel filter is a billet piece that has a replaceable element.

I spent the morning crimping on the new terminals on the wiring harness. After lunch I replaced a leaky propane gas line on the motorhome. I also received a call from my powder coater telling me the boomerang was ready. For the princely sum of $5, it looks like new.



My clips for the passenger door panel arrived in today's mail so I could re-install it. I used the black lower armrest part in place of the light gray one.

Car looks great!

Looking very nice. I admire your attention to detail.

I like your interior trim colours. Very cool.
I’ll have to pm you about your fuel filter set up. Interested in that layout.
Keep up the great work

The colors were somebody else's choice about 15 years ago but they are surely different than the normal blacks and browns.

I'm glad you did, that looks a whole lot better to me than the gray one did!! Especially when the driver's side door pocket is black already.

--DD

I worked on installing the terminals into the bulkhead connectors yesterday. It is a very intense experience as the pins need to be placed in the same holes in both halves of the connector. I screwed up a couple by placing the wire in the hole before passing it through the seal. I had purchased a terminal removal tool, but, don't you know, I had the wrong size. The correct tool is on the way.

Since I am close to having the wiring finished, I decided it was time to remove the engine from the engine stand and place it on the hydraulic table that I will be using to put the motor into the car. I cut a piece of plywood to be the same width as the heat exchangers and mounted the board to the table with clamps. I also removed the handle on the one end as it would have been in the way.








With that done, I removed the tin at the front and rear of the motor as it would have been bent by the straps. I strapped it at both ends and, using my overhead hoist, I took the weight off of the engine stand and removed the mount. I then lowered the engine onto the hydraulic cart. Now I can install the flywheel, clutch, transmission, starter, etc. in preparation for putting the motor into the car.

The shorter screws for the Momo steering wheel arrived today. So I removed the 1 1/2" steering wheel spacer.








The Blaupunkt radio I recently installed required an antenna adapter. It also arrived today and is now in the car. I have tunes!!



Next up was installing the flywheel. I torqued the bolts to 66 ft lbs.





I was going to install the clutch as well but, out of the eight or so clutch alignment tools that are in my drawer, there wasn't one that fit this clutch. It is on order.

I re-installed the sheet metal I removed yesterday as well as the rear sheet metal that I couldn't install while the engine was on the engine stand. I also installed the hoses on the front end.

Not much happening on the car this weekend. Been busy with other things. One of those things was taking a ride and getting to drive my son's 911 T (for Tesla). The first time he floored it, my response was some four letter words. It is that fast!!! He has clocked 0-60, unofficially, at 2.0 seconds!!

We switched drivers and I got the chance to see what it could do. Holy #@$!!! My last track car was a 1982 911SC with a breathed on 1989 930 turbo motor that registered 330HP at the wheels. I had installed a G50 five speed which helped make that a very, very fast car. I also had a 2002 Z06 with a Magnacharger. It was over 500hp and was also very fast. Matt's car absolutely blows both of these cars away. And, there is no wheelspin. It was in the high forties this morning and there was still plenty of traction. IT Just Goes!!!

The drivability was also excellent. It was very easy to modulate the throttle with everything being very progressive. The only sound is that of the various coolant pumps and the rocks thrown up by the sticky tires. This is the description of the tires as it appears on Coker's web site.

"Michelin PB20 | Competition Tires
The incredible Michelin PB 20 is a VHC rally tire specifically designed for wet racing surfaces. The PB 20 is available in two popular 15 inch sizes to fit many applications. This tire features a specially designed compound and tread pattern for maximum grip in wet racing conditions. The Michelin PB 20 is classified as VHC Full Rain tire, and like other Michelin Classic competition tires is DOT and ECE approved for public road use."

The other new experience for me was the regenerative braking. Under normal driving, the physical brakes are rarely used. The regen brakes will bring the car to a complete stop. I stomped the throttle not too far before we had to turn into Matt's subdivision. I did have to use the physical brakes then and it stopped well, albeit with a fair amount of brake pedal pressure needed as there are no power brakes. He could add them later if needed by adding a vacuum pump.

Those wide tires and the extra weight on the nose did cause the steering to be somewhat heavier than a stock 911 at low speeds. It was fine in normal driving. There was a bit of hunting with those big tires but, again, nothing that was a big bother. The weight distribution is 61% rear and 39% front

All in all, I surprised at how civil it was. He is waiting for some door window seals so he can install the door glass and there is no insulation or interior trim in the car yet. Once the windows are in, it will be his daily driver in fair weather. He has an appointment with a body shop for paint in January. The plan is to drive it for the next month of so to sort any bugs, blow the car apart, have it bead blasted again, and the take it to the body shop.

66ft lbs for the flywheel? I think you need more torque than that.

1978-89 90Nm (66 ft-lbs) - 9 bolt flywheel

1965-77 150Nm (110 ft-lbs) - 6 bolt flywheel

Thanks for the info. That is the reason I posted the torque settings and of the the main reasons I like to post project threads. There are always people out there who know more than me.

The site I looked at didn't show this higher setting.

No problem, if that flywheel lets loose you might end up having a bad day.

I gave up on the bulkhead connector. The removal tools arrived and did not work. It is incredibly difficult to get the wires in the right holes. So I used seven weather pack connectors. It is so much easier to crimp the weather pack terminals. By having nor more than four wires per connector, it is easy to see if the wires are in the correct place. I was very concerned about getting the wires in the correct position on the bulkhead connector and afraid I would damage the ECU.

I made a list of the wires to each connector and will place that list in the ECU three ring binder for future reference. I used my labeler to label each of the connectors. When I installed a tire pressure monitoring system on my motorhome and my towed car, the instructions called for numbering each of he tire monitors with their supplied numbers. They also recommended applying clear finger nail polish on each number to protect them. That has worked well so I borrowed my wife's polish to do the same on these numbers.

I am disappointed that I could not make the bulkhead connector work as I liked the cleanliness of that type of installation. I called Richard Clewett, the supplier of the injection system, and nearly bit the bullet to have him make a harness as I was frustrated. He advised against that because of the cost and that I have done the hard work of wiring the engine. He is sending me a 2" grommet that he uses on his installations that I can use. He sent photos of the grommet and plates and it should work well.

Now that I have the connectors on the ECU harness, I can complete the wiring to that harness from the power harness. Then...I can work on getting that motor back into the car!!

To not get "messed up" with the bulk head connector the easy way is to color code a pin using of all things finger nail polish.

Or you can sharpie both sides of the connector when it is plugged in correctly, then you just add the wire. in the right spots on both sides. Big wires then smaller ones until done. Of course that was almost 30 years ago now, I could see, and had dexterity a classical pianists.