Those tires are not cheap !!!!!

He wanted me to get a set of those for the 914!!!

I worked on the trunk wiring today. The wide band O2 sensor is run through a small red box. I mounted this using double sided tape. This box is separately powered and one wire runs from it to the ECU. It has other functions that I will not be using. I used a piggy back fuse tap to get power and grounded it to the chassis. The purple wire from the ECU is wired into the lower right terminal of the connector.















Three other wires from the ECU harness must be wired. Two go to the power harness and the other is the main ground for the ECU. All are now wired except the main ground. I will put the car on the lift to do that wiring. I fed all of the connectors through the hole and tied everything together. Richard's grommet for the main harness arrived late today and will be installed tomorrow. There are two connectors for hooking up the ECU to a computer, RGB and USB.

THE EFI WIRING IS DONE!!

I ran the ECU ground wire to the battery and tidied up the wiring in the engine bay as well as the trunk. I decided to run the O2 sensor wiring into the engine bay. Once the engine is back in the car, I can run the harness from there back to the sensor. Richard's grommet kit worked well.

I have done a lot of wiring in my past but this was the first time I had used connectors and crimped terminals like I did here. There was a learning curve. Overall, installing the fuel injection system has been more difficult than I thought it would be. The good side is that I learned new things.






The engine bay had been covered with a fine oil film. Ed had told me that it was blowing oil from improper crankcase ventilation. The setup when I bought the car was that the hose that goes from the gas tank to the inlet on the motor came from the oil filler neck. The other vent from the oil tank had a K & N filter installed.




Last summer, Hendrick Porsche had a Porsche 70th birthday party and had a number of vintage cars on display in their new showroom. One of them was a 914-6. I noticed that this car was vented the reverse of mine. I asked him if he had any issues with oil blowing into the engine bay and he said he didn't.

Since I was working in the engine bay, I decided to address this venting issue. I had purchased new hose. To run the lines the way I wanted, I needed at least one extra elbow. The one elbow that was in the system was made out of plastic and was bulky. A trip to the local hardware store netted me some copper elbows that were compact. I ran a short piece of hose from the front tank vent to an elbow, ran that line to the rear of the car above the oil filler neck to another elbow and then ran the line over to the center of the car. I made the line plenty long and will cut it to size once the motor is in. I installed the K & N filter on the oil filler neck. Hopefully this works.

I installed new engine bay seals.



I had removed the charcoal canister from the engine bay. As I mentioned earlier, I had ordered a new gas tank in lieu of having the original one cleaned and sealed. However, when I tried to install the expansion tank on the new tank, the weld seam was taller than on the original tank which made the expansion tank sit too high. George at Automobile Atlanta is working on this issue with Dansk. I asked George if I needed the expansion tank since I was eliminating the charcoal canister and he said I did not need it as the early cars did not have one. They had a "Y" fitting that fit into the fuel tank overflow line. I ordered one of these from George. The fitting and the original line are about the same size and, since the old vent hose is stiff, I could not insert the fitting. I had some clear plastic tubing in my drawer that was just enough larger to fit over both the vent hose and the fitting. I cut everything to size and attached the small vent line from the fuel filler neck to the fitting. I have read that I may have gas odor issues with this setup. I'll deal with that issue if it occurs.












Since I will not be using the O2 sensor gauge that came in the car, I have been thinking about what gauge to place in that hole. Last Sunday while I was in the garage setting my clocks back for daylight savings, it occurred to me that there was no clock in the car. I found a VDO clock on eBay and installed it today.

Grunt work was done last week. I went through each of the bags of parts that were tagged as removed from the car when the engine was taken out. I cleaned up each of the parts and ordered new parts if necessary.




I also took the transmission out of the bag is has been in for the past thirteen years since it was rebuilt.



Another item that came with the car is a brand new JWest side shift linkage kit. I don't know if I will install this. Anyone have any experience with this product?

I wouldn't have a second thought about it and install it. I bought one from TangerineRacing, the design is very similar.

We made a quick trip to icy Indiana late last week to visit my mother-in-law. We celebrated her 94th birthday at the assisted living center where she now lives. We were going to drive there on Thursday but left a day early upon seeing the weather forecast. And we were glad we did as we woke up to over a 1/4" of ice on our car Thursday morning. Another reason we moved south from Indiana!!!

I had to remove the seats to move the fuel regulator so I could access the rear of the bolts. In doing so, I accidentally snapped off one of the pot metal seat adjuster handles. I ordered a new pair of plastic ones and installed one of them today. To do so, the old rivets have to be drilled out and new rivets installed. The rivets had to be drilled out from the rear as well as the front. Once the pot metal piece was removed from the seat track, I mounted the new handle with a zip tie so I could drill the holes from the rear and then fastened it.

Wouldn’t these look great!!

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/porsche-r...comment-2710926

I have a Jwest kit on my 914-6 conversion and I just purchased a second, nos kit from TC. It takes shifting to a whole 'nother level. No slop and with a Rennshifter, feels more like a bolt action rifle. I can't imagine a better shift system.

Such a ringing endorsement makes me feel like I don’t have a choice!!

I did accomplish one other major goal. I mounted my 1974 North Carolina license plate!! If your car is at least thirty-five years old, you are allowed to run a vintage plate as long as you have your regular plate in the car to show an officer.

I have made some progress that past few days. It had been pointed out to me that I had used the wrong torque figure for the flywheel bolts. The 66ft lb figure was for a nine bolt flywheel while mine was a six bolt with torque figures of 110lb ft. I got out my trusty torque wrench, set it at 110 and had a problem. My socket was very old and worn and slipped out of the bolt head and jamming my hand. As I was afraid I had compromised the bolts, I ordered a new set and a new socket. Now I finally could set the torque where it should be.

My 12.9 bolts for the pressure plate arrived as well so the clutch could be installed. After installing the throw out bearing and clutch fork, I was ready to mate the transmission with the motor. I used the lift to lift the transmission into place. The starter was also installed as well as the fan belt.
















Today I filled the transmission with gear lube, always a messy job. The engine and tranny are ready to go back into the car!!!

Based on the positive comment on the Jwest shift linkage, I decided to use it. I removed the shifter, undid the pinch bolt and removed the front shift rod through the firewall. The shift rod bushing at the firewall must also be removed.













The splined end of the shift rod must be removed and then welded onto a new rod supplied in the kit. Since I don't weld, I took everything over to my son's house. He proceeded to ground off the existing welds and then weld the end to the new rod at the prescribed length. After cleaning up the welds at home, I painted the welded area to prevent corrosion.

The previous owner, Ed, had done a lot of research into upgrading the axles. He found six bolt flanges using M10 1.5 bolts that could be used with turbo axles. The car came with two brand new turbo axles still in the boxes.








The problem is that 911 axles are 3/4" shorter than 914 axles. To solve that issue, Ed had ordered a set of Sway-Away axles that are the proper length. To mount them, I would need to remove the CV joints from the turbo axles and install them on the Sway-Away axles. I removed the snap ring but could not get the CV to slide off the end of the axle. Since I was going to my son's house anyway, I took the axles along. My son has a small press and it did the trick. Since my son was busy finishing up his 911 Tesla, I took the press with me and will remove the other CV's and transfer them. It is good to have a son with lots of goodies and expertise!!!

After the house cleaning party this morning, I worked on installing the Jwest Side Shift Linkage. Installing the shifter bearing on the firewall was the task at hand. The hole that the shifter rod goes through is not centered in the round area in the firewall. Consequently, the bearing is offset to the driver's side and up. To help place the bearing support correctly, I slid the shift rod through the bearing. Once I had it correctly placed, I marked the holes for drilling.

The instructions called for using a magnet to place the bolts into the holes from the tunnel. To make sure they stayed in the holes, I placed some strip caulk below the head and pushed hard against the bolts once they were through the holes. This not only served to seal these bolts but they stayed well enough that I could completely tighten the nuts.

I then slid the shift rod through the bearing and slid it into the pinch clamp on the shifter. With the shifter then bolted back into place, I could install the boot over the shift rod at the firewall. It is secured with the supplied zip tie.

Do you happen to have any photos of the installation at the transmission? Also, would it be easier to install the parts at the transmission once the engine and tranny are back in the car?

Thanks.

Mcmark has installation pictures on Sir Andy’s build thread. It is much easier to install the shifter bracket on the side shift console when the trans it out of the car and upside down on the ground.

Do you happen to have any photos of the installation at the transmission? Also, would it be easier to install the parts at the transmission once the engine and tranny are back in the car?

Thanks.
[/quote]
Mcmark has installation pictures on Sir Andy’s build thread. It is much easier to install the shifter bracket on the side shift console when the trans it out of the car and upside down on the ground.
[/quote]


Found it! Thanks.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=72363

Do you happen to have any photos of the installation at the transmission? Also, would it be easier to install the parts at the transmission once the engine and tranny are back in the car?

Thanks.
[/quote]
Mcmark has installation pictures on Sir Andy’s build thread. It is much easier to install the shifter bracket on the side shift console when the trans it out of the car and upside down on the ground.
[/quote]

After looking at those photos, I can see why it would be easier to have the transmission out of the car and upside down. However, since I just mated it to the motor and filled it with fluid, I will probably finish up the job once everything is in the car. I could raise the engine/transmission on the hydraulic table but I would have to lay on the floor to do the drilling. I think I would rather work on it when the engine is back in the car and the car is on my lift.

Having never installed an engine in a 914, is it best to install it with the muffler attached?

I would do the muffler after. It will give you more room around the trans mounts. When you do install it, leave it a little loose until it’s on the ground and you can get it parallel to the car and floor.

Thanks.

Really enjoying your thread, re-read most all of it this morning and it is interesting to see how we've solved some of the same problems the same and differently, and there is a lot of really good useful information you have shared. I especially like your air fuel monitor and Many other things you have done. I may revisit a few of them on my car.

In addition to removing the muffler I might also suggest the throttle bodies as well, if it is not a total PITA to remove them, as it will give you more space up top too. I removed my Webers to give me the added room as some one here suggested at the time.
Keep up the good work! Very nice car!
Check out my thread page 12 for my engine install. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=261197

Thanks for the link to installing the engine. That really helps. In the past I have always put the motor into a car that I had removed it from. Much easier once you have seen how everything fits.

I will look into removing the throttle bodies but I would prefer to keep them in place, if possible.

Do you bolt the transmission mounts in at the top prior to installing the engine and tranny and then use the big bolt to fasten the transmission in place?

Another messy day of working with the CV's. There is a cap on the end of the CV joins that has to be removed. With this cap out of the way, the snap rings are exposed. After removing the snap rings, I detached the boot from the CV. At this point I removed all of the balls and the outer ring. Now I could place the axle assembly on the press to remove the rest of the CV.











Now that I had everything apart, I cleaned the CV parts and re-installed the balls. I also cleaned up the metal boot mounts and installed seals on them.

The Sway-Away axles are marked as left and right. According to their instructions, it doesn't matter which end goes to the transmission as long as the axles are used on the correct side of the car. As you can see, they have much longer splines and are designed to slide back and forth as needed. They are also quite a bit longer than the 911 axles.













I am waiting for the CV bolts to arrive. Once they are here, I will pack the CV joints and mount everything to each axle. Then I can bolt the CV to the outer flange at the hub. Once that is done, I will be ready to put the engine back into the car.

Correct. If you look at my thread post 233 you will see the mounts installed in the first and last picture there. I am hesitant to post pictures of my install here on your thread so as not to confuse those watching your thread that it looks like you are installing your engine.

Feel free to reach out PM anytime and we can go from there or give me a shout out here if you want any pics posted.

I share with you that I had never installed an engine in a 914 until I did mine and like yours, the engine was not installed, so I did not get to remove it, also just like you. Thanks again for all you have posted on your thread.

Yesterday morning, I spent some time on the throttle body linkage after reading Lucky9146's thread. Later in the day, I discovered that I had reversed the solid rod from the throttle to the transmission and had it upside down.

In anticipation of installing the engine, I installed the transmission mounts.






I also used my rethreader kit to clean out the threads on the output flanges on the transmission.









I had removed the passenger seat so that I could get to the firewall when I moved the fuel regulator. I wasn't happy with how the seats slid back and forth so I spent some time making sure the tracks were properly aligned. I also had not been able to get the driver's seat to go all the way back. Today I figured out why.

There was a rectangular plate, about the thickness of a washer, with two bolt holes that fit into the track of the seat. I have seen these before on other Porsche's so I didn't think much about it. However, there were only two that came with the car and they were the only things different between the two seats. I removed them and, voila, the seat went all the way back. Amazing how such a small victory can be so satisfying!!

The only things keeping me from putting the engine back into the car are the CV bolts I have on order. My son was visiting yesterday (with his Tesla 911) and he mentioned that the local drive shaft shop may have those bolts. The made the axles and CV joints for his car. I will check that out tomorrow.

Two of my neighbors drove Matt's car yesterday and both were impressed with the acceleration and how civilized the car was to drive. My buddy Reese raved about how easy and smooth the car was to drive. He is a hot rodder and sees Matt's car as the future of hot rodding for the next generation. As with most of us baby boomers, the technology is beyond out skills but we can appreciate the work and craftsmanship that goes into doing an electric car. After driving Matt's car, I can more readily see my daily driver being an electric car.

I think you have the upper brackets upside down, they should look like this:

Thanks for the tip.

With the help of a tip about the incorrect placement of the top part of the transmission mount, I rectified that today.



My son was correct in that The Driveshaft Shop had the correct M10 1.5x50mm CV bolts. I picked them up this morning. This afternoon, I assembled the left axle. I began by removing the flange from the rear trailing arm. I then chased the threads and applied the gasket.




After placing the boot on the axle, placing lots of grease in it and in the CV joint, I slid the joint on the axle. Instead of a snap ring at the end of the axle, this one used a type of ring that you basically spread out and then screw it onto the axle.









With that in place, I bolted the CV to the flange using the bolts with a schnoor washer. I had to insert the flange in the trailing arm and apply the parking brake so I could torque the bolts to 34ft lb.





After removing the axle from the car, I assembled the CV joint on the other end. Since I had separated the boot from the flange, I had to re-install it using a crimp style hose clamp with a pinch crimper.






With everything installed, I cleaned up the axle and boots. Since these axles are marked left and right, I ran off a "Left" label and applied it to the axle. Again I robbed my wife's clear finger nail polish to permanently secure the label to the axle.



Tomorrow I will assemble the right axle, install both of them in the car and get ready for the engine installation. Getting very close now!!

Nice job

I will let you know I have since upgraded all my CV Bolts to accept safety wire. I had a set of bolts back out once, and never want to make that mistake again. Over kill yes, now Murphy gets to mess with other areas of my cars.

Right now that would be the fact that I like taking them apart.

I need to make a reminder on my computer to check the bolts again after I have driven the car a bit.

I finished up the right axle today. In Lucky9146's thread, I saw that he used a piece of conduit run from one shock to the other as a place to tie up the axles. I had a piece of threaded rod that was the right length and tied the axles to it.







I found the courage to hook up the power to the ECU. Electromotive's software for the Wintec GT200 only works with Windows. I asked my son if I could borrow his laptop when the time came to plug into a computer. He told me about a program called Parallels that would allow me to install Windows on my MacPro. The program worked as he said it would. I fired up the program, plugged the USB cord, and turned on the ignition. And I was rewarded with the program finding the ECU!! That was a relief.







I rolled the motor and tranny under the car. My buddy Reese will be here tomorrow at 9:00 and we will see about getting this bad boy into the car!!! Prayers would be appreciated!!

Lock and Load!

Question,
is there a recess for those CV gaskets so metal to metal contact is achieved when the bolts are tightened? If not, the gasket will squeeze out and allow the bolts to lose torque.

There is no recess.

The engine is in!!! Took the two of us a couple hours to finagle it into position. It was really close on each side at the upper shock bolt. The tin in those areas was bent previously in that area and now I know why. But the plus side is that we knew we had th engine centered in the engine bay as it was rubbing on both sides. I had to unplug the center COP connector for clearance. At the rear, we had to remove the transmission mounts and then re-mount it once we had the transmission closer to being in the proper place.

I worked this afternoon on hooking up things on the bottom of the motor. I did the oil lines, the heater hoses, and the cables for the accelerator, clutch and speedometer. Since I now had all of that weight on the rear of the car, I took the precaution of using one of my tall jack stands for safety's sake.

wait i know that tranny! hehehe my 75 1.8 after I installed that tranny. Well Stacey owned the car since last June 2017.

Your car is almost there to be driven! That is a fast project after you bought it from your family friend. I’m sure the previous owner would love to see it after your done with it.

First thing yesterday I hooked up the heater cables.



The day became more complicated once I began installing the axles. I had placed the axles in the trailing arms prior to installing the motor. I torqued the CV bolts and the main axle nut. Now I was ready to attach the CV's to the transmission flange. When I went to turn the hub to line up the CV bolt holes, it would not move. I checked to make sure the parking brake was off and it was. After considering things for a bit, I backed out the outer CV bolts and the hub would move. To test what bolt size would work, I placed some washers on the bolts to effectively make the bolts shorter. Even then, after trying different combinations of washers, I still was having an issue with everything locking up.

At this point I decided the axle had to come out of the trailing arm. There wasn't room to take the axle out with the CV joined to the flange so I separated them and pulled the axle out separately. With the axle out, I could see that there wasn't much clearance between the rear of the flange and the inside of the trailing arm and could see where the paint had been rubbed off when turning the flange with no axle attached. At this point I wasn't sure what to do. I wondered it I could shim the flange away from the inside of trailing arm.

To check on that, I called Chris Foley. He had never heard of someone having this issue before but, then again, he hadn't dealt with the axles and flanges that were being used here. He did not think it would be a good idea to shim the flange. He also reiterated his concern about using the CV gaskets. He said there were some applications that called for these gaskets but not with the CV's that I was using. I thanked him for his help and suggestions.

The end of yesterday saw me driving to The Driveshaft Shop to get twelve 45mm bolts to replace the 50mm bolts I was using. The 50mm bolts worked on the transmission flange as there was plenty of clearance on the rear of them. This morning I removed all of the gaskets. To give a bit more clearance on the rear of the flange, I broke out the die grinder and took a bit off the outer edge and at each threaded hole. I installed the outer flange and maneuvered the axle into place. To line up the holes, I used a small pick to find the hole. To raise the bottom of the CV a bit, I stuck a thin screwdriver between the flange and the trailing arm. Once I got that first bolt started, I used the pick to find the second hole opposite that first bolt. With that bolt started, it was a simple matter to start the rest of the bolts. I torqued the bolts to spec and torqued the axle nut and, voila, I was able to turn the hub. Success.


Now I could installed the CV on the transmission flange. I repeated this on the other side. This whole process took up my entire day. There were many trips and down my ladder to engage and dis-engage the parking brake. So I am a bit behind on getting the car ready to start but am relieved that I have a job completed that I knew was going to be an issue since everything here was modified. And, as anyone knows who works with CV joints, I spent a good bit of time cleaning up my counter, my tools and me!!

Thanks for all the pics and commentary. Glad to see you are working things out.

This line looks a bit concerning but may be just the perspective.

Nice work. Speaking of oil lines, I really like the oil drain valve you installed in the line to make oil changes quick and simple without breaking loose the main line connection. I want to add something like that to my oil line as I remember well changing the oil on my other two sixes and having to break that main fitting loose to drain the oil. I would prefer not to have to disturb that connection once it is made and it does not leak.

I did that kind of fitting on my car. Our race car tech liked it but told me not to run it until I safety wire it.

Although it points straight down in this pic, I set it up so the exit on the T is parallel to the ground.

The safety wire tip is a good one for sure.

It was there when I bought the car. It is kind of hanging now. I need to make a bracket for it to secure it better.

It is OK but like I said in the comment above, I do want to secure it better.

You can use all sorts of other methods, but safety wire is the king and is why it is still used and sanctioned by racing organizations. Just remember to make sure to wire it in the right direction.