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ChrisFoley
QUOTE(jerhofer @ Dec 1 2018, 04:28 PM) *


There were many trips and down my ladder to engage and dis-engage the parking brake.

Here's a tip to save some time - actuate the parking brake lever on the caliper with a vice grip clamp. Its easy to apply more braking force that way than with the cockpit lever. beer.gif
914forme
Great Tip Chris. Thanks for sharing
Biggles
QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Dec 2 2018, 12:42 AM) *

Nice work. Speaking of oil lines, I really like the oil drain valve you installed in the line to make oil changes quick and simple without breaking loose the main line connection. I want to add something like that to my oil line as I remember well changing the oil on my other two sixes and having to break that main fitting loose to drain the oil. I would prefer not to have to disturb that connection once it is made and it does not leak. beerchug.gif


I'd highly recommend doing this modification. Trying to undo the oil unions is a real pain as you'd know. This is my installation using a 3 way valve and removable handle.Click to view attachment
jerhofer
QUOTE(Biggles @ Dec 2 2018, 04:17 PM) *

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Dec 2 2018, 12:42 AM) *

Nice work. Speaking of oil lines, I really like the oil drain valve you installed in the line to make oil changes quick and simple without breaking loose the main line connection. I want to add something like that to my oil line as I remember well changing the oil on my other two sixes and having to break that main fitting loose to drain the oil. I would prefer not to have to disturb that connection once it is made and it does not leak. beerchug.gif


I'd highly recommend doing this modification. Trying to undo the oil unions is a real pain as you'd know. This is my installation using a 3 way valve and removable handle.Click to view attachment


Is that a 1" valve? Where did you find the adapters to go from this pipe fitting to AN?

Thanks.
Biggles
QUOTE(jerhofer @ Dec 3 2018, 02:27 AM) *

QUOTE(Biggles @ Dec 2 2018, 04:17 PM) *

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Dec 2 2018, 12:42 AM) *

Nice work. Speaking of oil lines, I really like the oil drain valve you installed in the line to make oil changes quick and simple without breaking loose the main line connection. I want to add something like that to my oil line as I remember well changing the oil on my other two sixes and having to break that main fitting loose to drain the oil. I would prefer not to have to disturb that connection once it is made and it does not leak. beerchug.gif


I'd highly recommend doing this modification. Trying to undo the oil unions is a real pain as you'd know. This is my installation using a 3 way valve and removable handle.Click to view attachment


Is that a 1" valve? Where did you find the adapters to go from this pipe fitting to AN?

Thanks.


I had a shop install it, but most likely NPT or metric. We have plenty of places to get something to fit a valve, sure you would too - Earls is a very good option
jerhofer
QUOTE(Biggles @ Dec 3 2018, 04:04 AM) *

QUOTE(jerhofer @ Dec 3 2018, 02:27 AM) *

QUOTE(Biggles @ Dec 2 2018, 04:17 PM) *

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Dec 2 2018, 12:42 AM) *

Nice work. Speaking of oil lines, I really like the oil drain valve you installed in the line to make oil changes quick and simple without breaking loose the main line connection. I want to add something like that to my oil line as I remember well changing the oil on my other two sixes and having to break that main fitting loose to drain the oil. I would prefer not to have to disturb that connection once it is made and it does not leak. beerchug.gif


I'd highly recommend doing this modification. Trying to undo the oil unions is a real pain as you'd know. This is my installation using a 3 way valve and removable handle.Click to view attachment


Is that a 1" valve? Where did you find the adapters to go from this pipe fitting to AN?

Thanks.


I had a shop install it, but most likely NPT or metric. We have plenty of places to get something to fit a valve, sure you would too - Earls is a very good option



I have the parts on the way.
jerhofer
Today I worked mainly on the Jwest side shift linkage at the transmission. After removing the stock plastic bushing from the shift console, I clamped the linkage support to the shift console. I marked the two holes and drilled them. Next up was installing the new ball cup bushing after applying lots of grease. I drilled a small hole in that bushing which makes it easier to install. With that in place, I then could mount the linkage support.


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jerhofer
The next step was to install the rod through the shift cup as a test to make sure everything fit and to check for clearance issues.


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The rod had to be removed so the console cap could be installed. Once the cap was on, I could insert the shift rod through the shift cup and out the rear of the shift console after lubricating the bushings. There is a flat spot on the shift rod where an M8 bolt is used to secure the shift cup to the rod. Once all that is in place, the boots can be installed on both ends of the shift rod.



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After installing the u-joints and the stub shafts on the shift rod and the front shift rod, a new center shift tube must be made. The stock center shift tubes are way to long for this application and there is no need for a kink in them. After pondering what I was going to use to make this rod, I thought of the stock front shift rod that we had cut one end off of. I dug it out and it was the close to being the correct length. At the rear, this rod slid over the stub shaft. At the front, the two stubs would need to be butt welded.


I called my son and he came over after work. To show him how I thought everything would work, I used a hose clamp to fasten the front stubs together. He thought my idea would work. We measured how long this rod would be once it is welded to both shift stubs. Once we had the measurement, we removed the shift stubs and he took everything with him to make the center shift tube.


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jerhofer
While I was waiting for my son to arrive, I installed the muffler. I had sanded it down and had it powder coated a metallic sliver. On my previous project, the '73 Mercedes 280SEL 4.5, I had the exhaust manifold heat shields powder coated using this same material. After many heat cycles, those shields looked the same as the day I put them on. This covering is supposed to be good for 450 degrees.

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I also had time to install the crankcase vent hose.

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jerhofer
My son texted me this morning saying the shift rod was at the front desk at TRD where he works. I picked it up and then called my powder coater. I asked when he was going to do satin black and he said next week. But he was doing gloss black today. I blasted the rod and took it to him for a coating. About an hour later, he texted me that it was done. Another $10 well spent but lots of running around today.

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After mowing leaves (the grass is growing slowly but the leaves are still falling), i did have time to install the fuel hoses to the fuel rail.

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With the shift rod installed, the bottom of the engine is nearly done. I have to install the O2 sensor, attach the ground from the transmission to the body, and run the cable from the battery to the starter.

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TravisNeff
Great progress! What did you coat the gearbox with?
pete000
Nice upgrades !
jerhofer
QUOTE(TravisNeff @ Dec 4 2018, 07:04 PM) *

Great progress! What did you coat the gearbox with?



Thanks.

I don't know anything about the coating. The transmission came with the car and had this finish.
jerhofer
Brad Mayeur re-built the transmission with the aluminum intermediate plate and a Quaife differential. It was rebuilt in 2006 and has been out of the car since then. So it is fresh.
jerhofer
I worked on some odds and ends today. I adjusted the clutch cable so that I can pull the clutch pedal 3/4" towards the rear. I had done a preliminary adjustment of the throttle cable. I had my wife push the gas pedal to the floor so I could see if the butterflies were opening all the way. They were, which was a surprise. I accidentally happened to adjust it correctly.

I worked on the seal around the engine tin to get it into place. Then, I ran the wire from the battery to the starter and fastened the transmission ground strap.


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Next up was installing the O2 sensor. There was a ton of excess wire so I bunched it up and used a large shrink tube to secure it.


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I also plugged in all of the ECU connectors.

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Oil was poured into the tank. I tried to add gas but, fortunately, after pouring a bit in, I stopped to check for leaks. And I had a big one!! After cleaning up the gas, I put the car back on the lift to see what happened. It appears to have come out of the overflow tube as it was still wet. All of my connections at the tank were dry. Not sure how this happened. It was the end of the day so I decided to look into that in the morning. I must not have had the filler from my gas can far enough down into the tank.

Once I get that resolved, I should be ready for the first startup. Hopefully tomorrow will see that happening.

Tdskip
Fingers crossed - big moment.

Thanks for documenting your progress!
pete000
All those modern connectors and sensors look funny in a old 914...
jerhofer
QUOTE(pete000 @ Dec 5 2018, 07:51 PM) *

All those modern connectors and sensors look funny in a old 914...


Hopefully, they all work!!!
jerhofer
No start-up today. My first job was to find out why I was leaking fuel. It was my fault. When I was redoing the overflow line, I lifted up the tank a bit so I could feed the line down to the hole. In doing that, I pulled the return line off at the tunnel. i pulled the tank, tightened up the clamp even more than I had before, put everything back together and added some fuel. No leak there.

However, at little bit later I smelled fuel. It was leaking at the return line at the firewall. There is that 90 degree brass fitting that I had rotated slightly to make it run parallel with the bottom of the car. In so doing, I had evidently loosened the fitting. Because I had to pull that line back towards the rear to get to the nut, I drained the tank and removed the tank again so I could unhook that line I had just fastened. After tightening everything using new clamps and re-installing the tank, I added gas and everything is finally dry. I did have some fuel in the tunnel so I removed the console, pulled back the carpet and opened the windows to let everything dry out.

All of this work was completed by 10:00AM so I could still have started the motor. Up to this point, I had not checked my clutch adjustment to make sure the clutch was working. I enlisted my wife, put the car in gear and had her push in the clutch. It didn't allow me to roll the car. I adjusted it even tighter, but to no avail. The last time she pushed the clutch in I watched from underneath and could see that the clutch fork was hitting against the rear part of the opening. I had not checked the clutch fork ball as this was the same transmission that had been in the car in the past.

I called Brad Mayeur to talk about this with him. He agreed that the ball needed to be shimmed if the clutch fork was hitting against the transmission. I also mentioned to him that the car now had a Kennedy Engineering flywheel and clutch. He said that changed everything. For one thing, on a Kennedy clutch, you do not adjust the clutch pedal so you can pull it back 3/4". Correctly adjusted, there will be no pullback as the throwout bearing places pressure on the pressure plate all the time. He said he has talked to Kennedy about this but they say there is no problem with their setup. Brad wonders about long term issues with that pressure.

My buddy Reese has a transmission jack that I have used more than he has. Since he lives just up the street, I walked up there and rolled it back to my shop. He also had a very thin wall 14mm deep socket that should work on removing the ball. Brad says that, after removing the muffler and unhooking everything, I should be able to move it back far enough with the axles still attached to get to the ball. He recommended beginning with a 1mm thick washer. He also mentioned that the threads have to be sealed as the ball threads open into the case.


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So I get to have even more fun on this project!!! The weather is supposed to be terrible here this weekend so I wouldn't be driving the car anyway.

I have a question about the starter. When Reese saw it recently, he wondered if there was a more compact starter that would work. Any suggestions?
Larmo63
Your project looks great and it's a fun read the way you are documenting this build.

One thing I did notice: I'd recommend some kind of burp tank off of the oil filler neck where you have the small air filter. I had a little K & N filter like yours and eventually it filled up with enough oil to get a bit messy. I used a 911 washer bottle that rides right below that area. It basically sits there, the braided hose holds it in place.

"The devil is in the details."

Carry on.
jerhofer
QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Dec 6 2018, 07:00 PM) *

Your project looks great and it's a fun read the way you are documenting this build.

One thing I did notice: I'd recommend some kind of burp tank off of the oil filler neck where you have the small air filter. I had a little K & N filter like yours and eventually it filled up with enough oil to get a bit messy. I used a 911 washer bottle that rides right below that area. It basically sits there, the braided hose holds it in place.

"The devil is in the details."

Carry on.


I will look into that. Thanks for the tip.
jerhofer
We are supposed to get a bunch of snow this weekend so I spent the morning getting fuel for the generator and making a run to Sam's.

This afternoon, i removed the muffler and unhooked everything from the transmission. I also removed the starter. The support stands and the transmission jack are in place. Tomorrow I can separate the transmission and shim the clutch fork ball. Hopefully, I can just slide it back with the CV's in place as Brad suggested.

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mepstein
Looking good.

I have a son in NC and a daughter in Maine. The daughter doesn’t even mention snow unless it’s more than a couple feet. Son works from home if they see flurries.
jerhofer
QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 7 2018, 05:18 PM) *

Looking good.

I have a son in NC and a daughter in Maine. The daughter doesn’t even mention snow unless it’s more than a couple feet. Son works from home if they see flurries.


We are originally from northern Indiana. It is hilarious how freaked out people here become by snow. We probably won't be able to watch normal programming on local TV as the weather people will take over and be in seventh heaven.

They are saying we could get 8" of snow and potentially lots of ice as well. That is a lot for the Charlotte area. We will be staying home if it snows that much as being on the road is not the place to be with the local drivers. It will be interesting to see how our dog deals with that much snow!!!
jerhofer
No sacrifice is to great when doing a car project!!!

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Separating the transmission from the engine went smoothly today. Brad's suggestion that I could slide the transmission rearward with the axles attached was correct. There is plenty of room to work on the clutch fork.


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Removing the ball is another story. My neighbor had a fairly thin 14mm deep well socket but it wasn't even close to fitting into the area around the ball.


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I spent a couple hours using a skill knife to make that area around the ball larger.. to no avail. I can now get the socket in there but not far enough for it to catch. I was tired of scraping and called it a day.


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My next door neighbor is in charge of service for a large car dealership. I called him to see if any of his guys might have a thin wall 14mm socket. He is bringing a couple home for me to try. I have also ordered a new ball as this one already has the edges somewhat compromised.


t collins
QUOTE(jerhofer @ Dec 8 2018, 02:42 PM) *

No sacrifice is to great when doing a car project!!!

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Separating the transmission from the engine went smoothly today. Brad's suggestion that I could slide the transmission rearward with the axles attached was correct. There is plenty of room to work on the clutch fork.


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Removing the ball is another story. My neighbor had a fairly thin 14mm deep well socket but it wasn't even close to fitting into the area around the ball.


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I spent a couple hours using a skill knife to make that area around the ball larger.. to no avail. I can now get the socket in there but not far enough for it to catch. I was tired of scraping and called it a day.


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My next door neighbor is in charge of service for a large car dealership. I called him to see if any of his guys might have a thin wall 14mm socket. He is bringing a couple home for me to try. I have also ordered a new ball as this one already has the edges somewhat compromised.


I took an old socket and turned the O.D. down on the lathe. You could do the same on the bench grinder if you're careful.
jerhofer
[/quote]
I took an old socket and turned the O.D. down on the lathe. You could do the same on the bench grinder if you're careful.
[/quote]

Brad Mayeur suggested the same thing. I don't use a 14mm socket very often so I didn't have an extra one. Brad mentioned buying a cheap socket to grind. It worked. The helicoil came out with the pivot ball.


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Brad suggested beginning with a 1mm shim, which, as you can see by the calipers, is not very much. He said a little makes a big difference. I found two thin washers that equaled 1.45mm. They also fit in the recessed area, although I don't think they would have without my enlarging the area yesterday.

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jerhofer
The shims worked!!
Larmo63
Great news, just in time to drive it in the snow!! driving.gif
jerhofer
I had tried to install the sway bar links a couple days ago to no avail. After thinking about it, I decided to remove the shock absorber nut and slide the shaft out. In my "special tools" drawer, I found one that I thought would work by grabbing the rear of the shock mount. It worked well as I was able to press the link onto the ball.

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Since I had the throttle cable detached when I pulled the transmission, I wanted to make sure the butterflies were opening all the way. Since my wife wasn't in the garage with me, I decided to use my camera. I fastened the lens to the throttle body with a couple of zip ties. By snaking the monitor around inside the cab, I could see when the butterflies were open completely.

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In anticipation of starting the car, I removed the tape on the throttle bodies and borrowed six of our dog's tennis balls. She is a ball playing fool and loves her tennis balls.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MawbMOLwJis


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Now I was ready to start the car. I put in a call to Richard Clewett. While I was waiting for his return call, I cleaned the floorpan.

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Richard returned my call just as I was finishing up cleaning the floorpan. I have a Mac Pro laptop. Since Electromotive's software is only Windows compatible, I had to download a program called Parallels that allows me to operate either out of Windows or IOS. I also had to download a program called TeamViewer so Richard could take over my computer to set the parameters for initial startup. I had him on speakerphone as he went from window to window inputting data.

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I set the fuel pressure at 50psi and we were ready to start the engine. I turned the key and the starter went "clunk". I am not sure what the problem is but wonder if it is related to the Kennedy flywheel and clutch. I am going to pull the starter tomorrow to get to the ring gear. I want to see if I can turn the engine with a prybar. Richard asked if the engine was free and I said it was based on turning it to set the valve clearance. He asked if I had tried to turn the motor over once I had the transmission hooked up and I had not thought of doing this. I also wonder if the starter gear needs to be shimmed because of the Kennedy flywheel.

So no go today. We also discovered that all the sensors are reporting for duty except the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I will troubleshoot that tomorrow as well. I am disappointed that we could not start the motor but I understand that there are many variables in putting this thing back together.
Cairo94507
Man, you are so close. I would have a hard time sleeping knowing you are going to hear that beauty fire-up. I will keep my fingers crossed that the starter issue and TPS are just minor issues you quickly resolve. beerchug.gif
jerhofer
Not long after we got our first motorhome a little over four years ago, we began pulling a 2013 Fiat 500 Abarth behind it four wheels down. We loved that car and it was trouble free. After three years, we had put a number of miles on it, so we sold it and bought a low mileage certified 2017 in the same model. Because we bought the same car, all of my towing gear just needed to be transferred from one car to the other.

Not too long after I got the 2017 I noticed that it was using a lot more oil than the 2013 did. I began charting it and it was down to less than 700 miles before I had to add a quart. On the 2013 I usually added a quart between oil changes. I took it to the local Fiat dealer who couldn't find anything. So they marked the dipstick and told me to bring it back after driving it 600 miles as they evidently did not believe I knew how to count. I took it back with 600 miles and it was a quart low. So this morning I had to take it in where they will tear it down to see what the issue is. I have been told that I will probably be getting a new motor.

That trip combined with some Christmas shopping took up the morning. After getting into the garage after lunch, the first thing I did was to get out my troubleshooting camera. By looking into the clutch fork hole, I could see that the flywheel is very close. I also have a concern about the bolts I used on the pressure plate. I wanted to use 12.9 hardness bolts and the only ones I could fine were allen bolts with 8mm heads.


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I then pulled the starter. Here again I could see the ring gear was very close but it was clearing. The allen head bolt is visible here as well. I used the camera here as well. I put a pry bar on the ring gear and nothing moved.

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This is a Kennedy Engineering flywheel and pressure plate. I called them and they said the bolts could be the problem. The way to check that is to loosen the bolts and pull the transmission back a bit and see if I can turn the engine over. They did confirm that the stock starter works with their flywheel. I had the starter checked out prior to installing it and it passed with flying colors. Looks like it will come apart again!!


One other thing I have a question on. Can anyone tell me what this lead coming off the batter cable goes to?

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IronHillRestorations
That battery cable is a generic parts store cable that has that extra lead coming off, so it doesn't go to anything
jerhofer
QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ Dec 12 2018, 09:04 AM) *

That battery cable is a generic parts store cable that has that extra lead coming off, so it doesn't go to anything


Thanks.
jerhofer
I pulled the tranny again. I was able to turn the motor using a pry bar on the ring gear. Using a wood dowel ( I kept it out of the engine this time!!!), I did an approximate measurement of the position of the allen bolt head. There are three places in the casting where there is less clearance. As you can see in the photo below, clearing those areas with the allen bolt would be close.

I found some 10.9 hardened bolts at our local Ace hardware. As you can see in the photo below, the new bolt's head is almost half as thick as the allen bolt. While I was in there, I added another shim to the clutch fork ball as I was nearly out of adjustment to get it to work. These three shims placed the clutch fork almost exactly in the middle of the hole.


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I put everything back together, removed the positive lead from the fuel pump, and cranked the ignition. CLUNK!! I switched the wire that goes to one of the starter spades and tried it again. CLUNK!! That was disappointing.

The car came with two starters. Last summer, I took both of them to a local electrical shop and had them tested. They both passed. One was dirty and one was clean. I put the clean one in the car. Now I am thinking I may have a starter problem. I dug out the dirty one and cleaned it up. By the looks of it, I would assume it was the one that was on the car.


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By this time, it was late in the day and I was tired of messing with the car. So tomorrow I will change out the starter. If it goes clunk again, I will want to tear out my hair, if I had any!! I do these projects to stay busy during my retirement so I should be happy that I am having problems. Somehow, that thought doesn't comfort me.

pete000
You can easily bench test the starter by mounting it in a vice and hitting the pole with a jumper cable. if you just jump the lug the starter will just spin, if you jump the spade and the lug the starter will extend and spin. I recently tested mine this way and it was working properly. There are a few crude YouTube videos on how to test a starter.

Also verify the battery is working properly as well.

Another long shot could be a broken ignition switch. They can crack causing starter problems. Common problem with 914 column ignitions.
jerhofer
QUOTE(pete000 @ Dec 12 2018, 09:29 PM) *

You can easily bench test the starter by mounting it in a vice and hitting the pole with a jumper cable. if you just jump the lug the starter will just spin, if you jump the spade and the lug the starter will extend and spin. I recently tested mine this way and it was working properly. There are a few crude YouTube videos on how to test a starter.

Also verify the battery is working properly as well.

Another long shot could be a broken ignition switch. They can crack causing starter problems. Common problem with 914 column ignitions.


Thanks for the tips. I will try test with both starters tomorrow. The battery is new and charged.

I have been having some strange issues with the ignition switch. For one, the wipers come on and make one pass when I turn the ignition on. Also, there is a red light on the dash that flashes continuously. I haven't tried to troubleshoot these issues earlier as I was waiting until I had everything plugged in in the engine bay. I talked with Ed yesterday and mentioned these two things to him. It has been thirteen years since he drove the car but he did not remember either of these two issues.


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Larmo63
Is the flashing red light your emergency brake light?

Mine flashes in the gauge when it's pulled.

Just a guess.
Dave_Darling
The light in the image looks like a CAT or EGR light from a 75-76 car. Might be one re-used for a different purpose, or might just be a light in a similar spot.

What warning lights do you have in your gauges? What color wires connect to that light; do they look like authentic 40-year-old German wires?

--DD
IronHillRestorations
The red light is a custom light for either low fuel or brake warning.

added: Red is parking brake, or low brake pressure; green means go get gas
jerhofer
Still have a whole lot of clunking going on! The other starter gave the same results. I was able to get a wrench on the crank pulley. Before trying to rotate the engine, I decided to pull all of the spark plugs to make it easier. I couldn't get excellent leverage on that wrench but I had enough that the engine should rotate if it were free. It didn't budge a bit.

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At this point I decided that the transmission needed to come completely out as I had a serious clutch problem. So off came the axles and, since I have had so much practice this week, soon it was resting on the transmission jack.

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I dug out the pry bar and could easily rotate the motor via the ring gear. A call to Kennedy Engineering soon followed. I talked to Brett, the general manager, who is also their Porsche expert. After explaining the issue, has asked me to send him photos of the flywheel, the pressure plate, and the tranny. Photos is one thing I have in abundance!!

I also sent him photos of a number of measurements that I took with my calipers. After reviewing the photos, he wants me to remove the pressure plate and clutch, put the transmission back in place and then see if the motor will rotate. If it does, that eliminates the flywheel. If it does rotate, he want me to measure from the bolt up surface of the starter pocket down to the top of the ring gear. It should be around 1.43". So I get to put it together again.
jerhofer
Another frustrating day. I removed the pressure plate and clutch as advised by Brett at Kennedy.

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As any of you know who have a 911 engine in your 914, getting to the crank pulley bolt is difficult. Once I got the 19mm wrench on the bolt, I wedged a small board in between the wrench and the tin to hold it in place. Since the wrench is short, to increase leverage, I used a box end wrench over the open end of the wrench. I climbed into the trunk and was able to get a good pull on it but the motor did not budge, even with the plugs out. I had the plugs in when I did the valve adjustment and the effort wasn't terrible, albeit with a longer wrench. With the plugs out, it should have moved.


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I called Brett at Kennedy to let him know what had happened. He wanted photos. I got out my inspection camera. It has a feature I had never used. You can take photos or videos with it. I snapped a bunch of photos and sent them to Brett.

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After looking at the photos, he could not see a clearance issue. He then asked me to measure the depth from the ring gear to the surface where the starter is mounted. It should be exactly 1.43" Since I did not have a lot of room to get a ruler in that hole and be able to read it, I took a piece of dowel and marked 1.43" on it. I then stuck the dowel into the hole. That mark came out exactly to the surface so the ring gear was in the correct position. This also means the crank is in the correct position. He has seen the crank protrude a bit causing everything else to be off.

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Now we are wondering if the outside of the ring gear is hitting the transmission housing anywhere. The most likely places are the bosses at the bolt holes. Brett recommended placing clay at these positions and then see if they are disturbed when the transmission is in place. I didn't have any clay but I did have some strip putty. I placed it in these areas, slid the transmission in place and none of them were disturbed.

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He then asked if the transmission shaft was bottoming out in the flywheel. I had taken a photo earlier of that area and it was apparent that it was not bottoming out. In fact I asked Brett if he thought it was engaged enough. He asked if it extended fully into the pilot bearing. With the transmission out, I could see a grease mark on the shaft. I measured that and it did extend fully into the pilot bearing.

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At this point, Brett can't understand why it is locking up. He said that, in the past they did have some issues with the backside of the flywheel hitting the bosses on the engine block. But since the flywheel turns freely with a pry bar when the transmission is not in place, that ruled out that issue. The last conversation we had was for me to remove the flywheel and see if anything does show up on the rear of it. He also said that if I sent the flywheel to him, he would check to make sure it in spec.

At this point, one thing I had not done was try the starter with no clutch in place. CLUNK!!

I had sent my son a link to this thread beginning last week to show him how much fun I was having. His response was to be thankful I had a furnace and a lift!!

I called him this evening to discuss this. He is coming over in the morning. He is a better troubleshooter than me and, at this point, another set of eyes can't hurt.

I can't imagine that it could be the solution, but I am going to look at the early photos I took of the engine with the wiring harness in place to see if I am missing a hookup somewhere that is causing some issue. As I was doing the original wiring, I could only see a 12v lead from the alternator, the power lead from the battery, and a yellow wire that I have been putting on one of the spades on the starter. Am I missing something?

Very frustrating week!!!
jerhofer
Here are the photos I found of the wiring harness on the engine as it was when I first got it.

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pete000
Have you tried bypassing the cars electrical system altogether and just use a jumper cable and an extra battery on the starter to verify it still just clunks?

This would eliminate your possible wiring concerns.

I made a mistake once and forgot to hook up the main power to the starter once and it just went Clunk but would not spin, just as you describe.




rick 918-S
Unless you have already done this: Try the Ed test: take a positive jumper cable from the battery to the battery post on the starter, then the negative cable from the battery directly to a bolt near the starter and try to crank the engine.

I had a stock positive cable that looked like new that was corroded inside the sheathing causing the same issue. I chased it for months. Push started the car more than I care to admit. screwy.gif Worth a try. confused24.gif
Cairo94507
Oh man....what an experience to go through. I hope your son spots the issue and it is easily corrected after all of the investigative work you have gone through. beer3.gif
jerhofer
The first thing my son and I did was to use jumper cables from his car ( he drove his 700hp LS turbo motor 1979 El Camino) directly to the starter. CLUNK!! He said there were big sparks when I turned the ignition to start!!

Matt tried to turn the motor on the crank pulley and could not get it to move. But I could use the pry bar and make the motor rotate. However, Matt thought it did not move as freely as it should. So we removed the flywheel. A sign of what we would find was indicated by the fact that we did not have to use a flywheel lock to loosen the flywheel bolts.

We could see immediately see where the flywheel was hitting the lower boss on the engine block. We ground away some of the affected boss as well as the upper boss and put it back together. We could rotate the motor by hand by rotating the flywheel with our hands. Matt wanted to get back to working on his car, so, after he left, I mounted the transmission to the engine and installed the starter. I climbed into the cockpit, turned the key and the engine cranked HURRAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



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I spent the rest of the afternoon mounting the transmission and installing the axles. I need to hook up all the cables, the shifter, re-install the spark plugs, etc. Once I have all that in place, I can troubleshoot the TPS issue. Hopefully, I will be starting the engine next week. Sure feels good to have found the problem. Thanks to all for your suggestions.





pete000
So was the flywheel too thick causing the touch condition?
pete000
So was the flywheel too thick causing the touch condition?
jerhofer
QUOTE(pete000 @ Dec 15 2018, 08:26 PM) *

So was the flywheel too thick causing the touch condition?


I don't know. It is an aftermarket part made for many different iterations of a 911 engine. Evidently they had an issue with some of these flywheels. I let Brett know what i had found.
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