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jerhofer
I worked all afternoon and accomplished quite a bit. First off I installed the crank position sensor in the holder. It called for a .035 gap. The tightening bolt called for 45 in/lb.

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Time to work on the intake manifolds. The studs need to be installed as well as the bell crank. Next up was prepping the motor to accept the manifolds. An insulator is sandwiched between two gaskets for each cylinder.

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jerhofer
Now it was the throttle bodies turn. First up is installing a retaining clip on each fuel injector base. After oiling the "O" ring, i inserted the injector into the fuel rail. Once it is fully seated, the retaining clip is rotated to lock it in place.

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Once the injectors are secured to the fuel rail, the other end of the injectors is inserted into the throttle body. The fuel rail is secured to the throttle body with a bolt going through a spacer.


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Next the AN fittings with "O" rings are fitted to each end of the fuel rails.

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The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) in fitted to one end of the throttle shaft.

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Now each throttle body can be fitted to the intake manifolds.


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914forme
Very nice work there. Making me reconsider the PMOs.
jerhofer
Spent most of the morning getting the tires mounted. Tech said they balanced well. I had to use a 1/4" spacer on the rears to clear the inner fender. To simulate the drivetrain, I loaded 200lbs of salt in the very rear of the trunk. The car was only lowered about a 1/4" with all of that weight. Stiff suspension!! Lowering it reduced the rear wheel clearance. Since I have room on the outside, I will be using a larger spacer. Once I have the clearances where I want them to be, I can install the correct size wheel studs.


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To complete the Chinese wheel configuration, I installed the center caps I had purchased earlier this summer on eBay. They cost $118 for a set of four with free shipping from China. They are of surprisingly good quality. I should have taken a photo of the rear as they are anodized like the factory caps. And they fit perfectly.


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I did get to spend a little time on the linkage. Richard's instructions recommend drilling a half inch hole in the right side mount for routing a vacuum hose to the port behind the mount. I also had to install the rod ends on the cross bar.


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Larmo63
Please don't think we aren't geeking out on your build. Your thread is well written & documented, and it's interesting.

smilie_pokal.gif
eric9144
QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 1 2018, 10:46 PM) *

Please don't think we aren't geeking out on your build. Your thread is well written & documented, and it's interesting.

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jerhofer
QUOTE(eric9144 @ Sep 3 2018, 12:05 AM) *

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 1 2018, 10:46 PM) *

Please don't think we aren't geeking out on your build. Your thread is well written & documented, and it's interesting.

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Thanks for the compliments.
RickS
Piling on. Outstanding thread and I applaud your build quality and attention to detail.
jerhofer
I finished up the linkage today. The left side rod ends are attached to the rod and to the throttle shaft. One begins with the rod ends at their shortest length and then two turns are added to the length. Then the rod from the bell crank to the rod can be installed. I will have to adjust it once I have the throttle pedal hooked up. The right side rod ends are adjusted so the throttle remains on the stop.

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Next up was installing the air cleaners. The base plate is fastened first and then the hats.


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Vacuum lines have to be run from each throttle body to the vacuum manifold. It is mounted by using the studs for the oil thermostat using extensions. Some spark plug wire separators worked perfectly to route the vacuum lines.


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jerhofer
One more vacuum line needed to be run from the vacuum manifold. It went to the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. At first glance, I thought the holes would line up perfectly with the holes on the vacuum manifold. However, they were off by about an eighth of an inch. Since one bolt would be sufficient to mount the sensor, I used my Dremel to ground down the one leg on the bottom of the sensor so it would fit better on top of the vacuum manifold. Wiring to come later.


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The manifold air temperature (MAT) sensor needed to be installed into the base of the air cleaner. After drilling a 7/8" hole and installing a grommet, the MAT sensor is screwed into the grommet. Sounds a little strange but it fits very securely.


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jerhofer
The instructions called for adding a second return spring on both throttle bodies. The recommended way was to drill a 1/8" hole into the air cleaner base. A 1/8" cotter pin is inserted from the bottom and spread out on the top of the air cleaner base. The excess metal on the cotter pin is cut away. The bottom of the cotter pin becomes the eye for the upper mount for the return spring.


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Because I was concerned about the vacuum line on the left side being close to the throttle linkage, I decided to clamp it to the fan shroud.

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To install the cam sync adapter, the plug on the end of the cam housing must be removed. As recommended, I used a dent puller for removal. I drilled a small hole off to one side, inserted a screw into the holder and screwed it into the plug. By pulling on the slide weight on the puller, the cap was easily removed. I placed some grease on the drill bit to catch most of the shavings.


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The next instruction said Rotate the engine through a cycle stopping 90 degrees before Z1 on the compression stroke." When I had installed the new fan pulley, I had the engine set at TDC. As I began to rotate the motor, I was interrupted. When I came back I realized that I didn't know where I was on the cycle. No problem. As I have done in the past, I would pull plug #1, insert a 1/4" wooden dowel, mark it and then see when it was pushed out the maximum at Z1. And this is when my day went sour. After cranking through a couple cylinders, the dowel was snagged by something and a piece was broken off. The broken off piece was about an inch long and about half the dowel width.


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I got a piece of clear hose and attached it to my shop vac and tried to suck it out. When that didn't work, I called Richard Clewett at Clewett Engineering, the guy who sold me the EFI kit. His first thought was to see if the #1 exhaust valve was open. If so, he recommended using air to blow it out. Since the exhaust was on, I removed it or else I wouldn't know if anything came out. The exhaust valve was open. Blowing air into it do not work. I have an engine camera scope. After inserting it through the plug hole, I could not see the piece of wood. I also looked up through the open valve and it was not visible there.

Since my skills stop at building motors, I will have to take the motor somewhere and have the head removed to see what is going on. Not the way I wanted to end the day but sometimes things happen. My son works with Todd Holbert (Al"s son) at Toyota Racing Development (TRD). My son texted him about shops that he would recommend. I will be contacting them tomorrow.

jerhofer
Today was a better day. I removed the left side throttle bodies and manifolds so I could see in through the intake valve for cylinder #1. I rotated the engine so the valve was open. Using my camera scope I could see nothing. I checked again with the exhaust valve open and saw nothing again. With the piston recessed in the cylinder, I was able to look completely around it and nothing showed. I could see that there was nothing caught by the valves. So, I am convinced that there is nothing in that cylinder.

When I hooked up my shop vac yesterday, I used a clear tube to suck from the spark plug hole so I could see anything that might be vacuumed out. I was looking for a piece that was the size of the piece that was missing. However, the dowel is made from some really soft wood and it might have been crushed when it was caught by a valve. So there may have been fragments that were sucked out that I didn't see.

I rotated the motor through a complete cycle and double checked my valve clearances.

So I got back to doing the job that started all of this commotion yesterday...installing the cam sync adapter. The motor is to be in the position with Z1 at 90 degrees before TDC on the cam pulley.. Once I had that set, the next step is to mount the adapter without the gasket. It is recommended to add a witness mark at this time.

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With it mounted, you insert the drill bushing using a 4.2mm drill bit. Since I couldn't find anyone handling metric drill bits, the next closest that fits into the drill bushing is 5/32. A little over 1/2" deep hole is drilled into the end of the cam. That hole is tapped with a M5-0.8 thread. The supplied bolt is then bolted into the hole with the head being flush with the cam surface using red loctite. The adapter is then mounted with the gasket. You then check the distance from the cam sensor mounting surface to the top of the M5 bolt. The distance should be 33.0-33.5mm (1.300-1.320). Mine was in that range. Now the cam sensor can be mounted to the adapter. It reads the bolt head as the cam rotates.


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Dave_Darling
OK, I am officially stunned. It's been almost 8 hours, and nobody has chimed in with mention of the Infamous Chopstick???

--DD
jerhofer
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Sep 6 2018, 12:16 AM) *

OK, I am officially stunned. It's been almost 8 hours, and nobody has chimed in with mention of the Infamous Chopstick???

--DD


A few years ago I bought a Ferrari 348 knowing that it needed to have the timing belt changed. It was critical here to have the motor at TDC. I used the very same dowel on that motor and it worked flawlessly. Since that was a V8 rather than a boxer motor, the spark plug hole was more vertical. I would guess that was why it worked better on that motor.


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I sold that car a couple years ago to a guy in California who I still am in touch with. He has put over 10K miles on it so I must have got it back together right. He has been very, very happy with the car. It was a fun car to drive but I could never get physically comfortable in it. Because it didn't have power steering or brakes and with the weight bias being about the same as a 911, driving it reminded me of the '80's 911's of my past. But prettier!!

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jerhofer
Another day, another sensor for the engine. This time it was a head temperature sensor. It can be installed on either side on the front of the engine. There are two walls in this area and you are to drill only through the first wall. The shavings fall into a void so they will not enter the motor. That hole has to be tapped with a M10-1.0 tap. I have a pretty good selection of taps and dies but this one was not included. After a few calls, I found one at a local bolt and tool store. To get to this area, the chain tensioner pressure feed lines have to be unbolted. I was out of the crush washers for these banjo fittings which meant another trip to find them. I spent a good part of the day driving around!!


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The -6 AN fuel lines and fittings arrived today along with the crimper needed to do the many weather pack connectors required to make the computer happy. My son has an identical crimper but, since he is in the middle of installing the Tesla motor in the '79 911, he will be using his. Normally, I would have borrowed his.

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IronHillRestorations
You are taking that car to the next level!
jerhofer
QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ Sep 6 2018, 04:32 PM) *

You are taking that car to the next level!



Thanks. That means a lot coming from you.
jerhofer
When I retired ten years ago this November, I told my wife that, since she had cleaned the house for the first forty years of our marriage, I would take care of the next forty years. Which is a good deal for me as our chances of being married eighty years are pretty slim!!! So Friday morning is house cleaning day.

I did spend a very short time on running my first fuel lines. I plumbed in a fuel gauge so I can set the fuel pressure with the regulator. I also ran the line across the rear from carb to carb. My son has lots of experience running AN fuel lines. He told me to heavily wrap the area where I was going to cut a line so the end would not fray. That suggestion worked well.


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Tomorrow I am taking one of the exhaust's to my son's house to have an O2 sensor bung welded in. The instructions call for mounting the sensor at a 15 degree angle. Should be a good challenge for my son. I will be taking him away from working on his Tesla 911 project. Here are a few pics from last week.

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jerhofer
One last sensor!! A wide band O2 sensor had to be installed. The car already had O2 sensors in both exhaust pipes for a gauge on the dash. However, the O2 sensor that came with the kit called for it to be installed at a 15 degree angle. My son had a spare sensor bung so I carted the right side exhaust to his house. He ground down the existing bung to get the correct angle. After test fitting the bung, he decided the bung might be too thick which would not allow the sensor to properly extend into the exhaust. So he put it on a vice and ground it down. Using an angle meter, he fine tuned the bung angle and began welding. Good to have a good son!!!

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To fit his wheels to his 911 Tesla project car, Matt had purchased a number of spacers and shims from Elephant Racing. I had mentioned to him that I needed to move the rear wheels out a bit for clearance on the inside. He gave he his spacers and shims. I liked the Elephant spacers better than the H & R spacers that came with my car. I used a 7mm spacer and a 2mm shim to get the clearance I wanted.

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jerhofer
To prepare for running the fuel lines, I removed the front pan to reveal the old fuel pump and lines. Happily, I discovered a fuel return line connector on the tank. After removing all of the old lines at both ends of the car, I can see that I will have to remove the tank to connect the new fuel lines. From what I could see at the rear, it appears there is a metal fuel line that runs in a tunnel from the fuel tank area to the rear of the car. Is that correct? Also, can anyone tell me how the factory ran the return line from the engine bay to the tank?

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914forme
You can see them in the tunnel by opening up the rear access cover. it is under your the storage unit between the seats. Black cover single screw. Once you have it out, you can then look in there and see if you have an all metal line. Hopefully some previous own installed two SS lines for you. If not you can make them, or just get them from Tangerine, Chris will even weld a -6 bung on it for you.

this 914 looks wonderful, keep up the great work. And yes that GearWrench Tap and Die set has almost every die you need. I have a few that I had to pickup also. Shorter NPT dies, and stuff for left handed threads.

BTW, I keep an old set of sockets around for making extended die handles for just such and occasion. I see your using a wrench in the above picture. Impact sockets are pretty easy to cut and weld if you ever need to make a custom tool of some kind.
jerhofer
QUOTE(914forme @ Sep 8 2018, 07:22 PM) *

You can see them in the tunnel by opening up the rear access cover. it is under your the storage unit between the seats. Black cover single screw. Once you have it out, you can then look in there and see if you have an all metal line. Hopefully some previous own installed two SS lines for you. If not you can make them, or just get them from Tangerine, Chris will even weld a -6 bung on it for you.

this 914 looks wonderful, keep up the great work. And yes that GearWrench Tap and Die set has almost every die you need. I have a few that I had to pickup also. Shorter NPT dies, and stuff for left handed threads.

BTW, I keep an old set of sockets around for making extended die handles for just such and occasion. I see your using a wrench in the above picture. Impact sockets are pretty easy to cut and weld if you ever need to make a custom tool of some kind.


Thanks for the info. I surely could have used an extension for that tap. It was a very tight area to get to.

I looked up Tangerine. After I look through that access cover and get the tank out, I'll see what I have to work with. I may be calling them.

As for locating the fuel pump, I would have a whole lot less line under high pressure if I located it in the engine compartment. But I have concerns about heat in that area. I would have to run power to the pump in the engine bay while the power is already there in the front. Have to think about all of this some more.
jerhofer
My buddy came down this morning to help me remove both hoods. They ended up in my wife's bedroom.

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The wife's bedroom have been the repository for a number of hoods from project cars over the years.

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1977 Camaro Pro Touring car

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Dave_Darling
Here's a link to the original Chopstick thread:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=22782&hl=

Give it a read when you have some time, and need a laugh or six...

--DD
jerhofer
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Sep 9 2018, 10:19 PM) *

Here's a link to the original Chopstick thread:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=22782&hl=

Give it a read when you have some time, and need a laugh or six...

--DD


That was entertaining. And I could surely empathize with the thread originator.
jerhofer
I pulled the fuel tank this morning. First up was removing the filler neck and then the expansion tank.


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jerhofer
Before removing the tank, I looked inside to see its condition. The only rust I could see was in the area around the outlet and inlet. I will address that before re-installing the tank.

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With the expansion tank removed, I could now remove the tank. I lifted up on it enough to put it from the rubber insulator blocks on each end and out it came.

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There were a couple of rusty areas on the tank. I will address these with POR15. There was a corresponding area of rust in the tank bay. That will be addressed as well.

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The tank bay appeared to be in good condition.

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porschetub
QUOTE(jerhofer @ Sep 9 2018, 01:36 PM) *

QUOTE(914forme @ Sep 8 2018, 07:22 PM) *

You can see them in the tunnel by opening up the rear access cover. it is under your the storage unit between the seats. Black cover single screw. Once you have it out, you can then look in there and see if you have an all metal line. Hopefully some previous own installed two SS lines for you. If not you can make them, or just get them from Tangerine, Chris will even weld a -6 bung on it for you.

this 914 looks wonderful, keep up the great work. And yes that GearWrench Tap and Die set has almost every die you need. I have a few that I had to pickup also. Shorter NPT dies, and stuff for left handed threads.

BTW, I keep an old set of sockets around for making extended die handles for just such and occasion. I see your using a wrench in the above picture. Impact sockets are pretty easy to cut and weld if you ever need to make a custom tool of some kind.


Thanks for the info. I surely could have used an extension for that tap. It was a very tight area to get to.

I looked up Tangerine. After I look through that access cover and get the tank out, I'll see what I have to work with. I may be calling them.

As for locating the fuel pump, I would have a whole lot less line under high pressure if I located it in the engine compartment. But I have concerns about heat in that area. I would have to run power to the pump in the engine bay while the power is already there in the front. Have to think about all of this some more.


You must retain the new pump up the front,most pumps prefer to push fuel from a close suction point rather than sucking from a distance,the location of the old pump is fine because the pump will always have a "head" of fuel on it...please don't use those type of screw hose clips again,safer to use FI clamps what ever system you have high or low pressure.
Buy the best quality HP fuel hose you can find ,even on carbs this is what I use,Richard will give a recommendation .
Really nice car ,good luck.
jerhofer
Now I wanted to figure out what I was going to do with the fuel lines from the firewall to the tank bay. Since Perry Kiehl built the car, I figured he would know what line was in place. I placed a call and found Perry to be very, very helpful. He said the existing line was a one piece metal line that he had installed. He mentioned calling Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing for help with getting a feed line.

Chris was also very helpful. There are two holes on the firewall for fuel lines, one for the feed line and one for the return line. Upon seeing my thread, he noticed that the existing feed line was in the return line hole and that the fitting on the end was in front of the other hole.

As you experienced people know, the fuel lines normally run to the right side of the engine bay. However, I wanted to run the feed line to the left and mount the fuel regulator and fuel filter on the firewall high up on the left side for easy access. From there I would run a fuel line from the regulator to the left side throttle body. The plan then was to run the return line from the right side throttle body back to the return line in the firewall.

Chris said he could make custom make the line with AN fittings on both ends. So I could see what I had, I removed the existing line. I then used a line to test my plan of running the feed line to the left side. It appeared to work as I could run it through an existing hole in the engine mount. So the new line would go in the same hole as the existing line. I could then fit the old line in the right hole and use it for the return line.

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I spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning up the tank bay and the tank.


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jerhofer
QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 10 2018, 05:03 PM) *

QUOTE(jerhofer @ Sep 9 2018, 01:36 PM) *

QUOTE(914forme @ Sep 8 2018, 07:22 PM) *

You can see them in the tunnel by opening up the rear access cover. it is under your the storage unit between the seats. Black cover single screw. Once you have it out, you can then look in there and see if you have an all metal line. Hopefully some previous own installed two SS lines for you. If not you can make them, or just get them from Tangerine, Chris will even weld a -6 bung on it for you.

this 914 looks wonderful, keep up the great work. And yes that GearWrench Tap and Die set has almost every die you need. I have a few that I had to pickup also. Shorter NPT dies, and stuff for left handed threads.

BTW, I keep an old set of sockets around for making extended die handles for just such and occasion. I see your using a wrench in the above picture. Impact sockets are pretty easy to cut and weld if you ever need to make a custom tool of some kind.


Thanks for the info. I surely could have used an extension for that tap. It was a very tight area to get to.

I looked up Tangerine. After I look through that access cover and get the tank out, I'll see what I have to work with. I may be calling them.

As for locating the fuel pump, I would have a whole lot less line under high pressure if I located it in the engine compartment. But I have concerns about heat in that area. I would have to run power to the pump in the engine bay while the power is already there in the front. Have to think about all of this some more.


You must retain the new pump up the front,most pumps prefer to push fuel from a close suction point rather than sucking from a distance,the location of the old pump is fine because the pump will always have a "head" of fuel on it...please don't use those type of screw hose clips again,safer to use FI clamps what ever system you have high or low pressure.
Buy the best quality HP fuel hose you can find ,even on carbs this is what I use,Richard will give a recommendation .
Really nice car ,good luck.


Thanks for the suggestions. I am going to mount the pump in the front as today I resolved how to run the return and feed lines through the tunnel. I will look for those FI clamps.
jerhofer
I spent some time on storm preparation this week since the big one is near. I have plenty of gas for the generator and I made sure the downspouts are draining properly. Looks like we will get some wind and lots of rain.

I will be using the brass fitting that had been on the old fuel pipe. It looked pretty nasty and a little metal polish went a long way.


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Upon looking at the steering rack protective plate, I decided it needed to be re-finished. After blasting it, I took it to the powder coater.

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The powder coater had my upper valve covers ready. Now I could set about installing them. Since I am using coil on plugs, I have retaining rails that needed to be installed. They use two of the valve cover nuts. Because of the depth of the retainer, I had to install longer studs. With that done I now inserted the coil on plug connectors.

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914forme
COP nice, I am liking that kit more and more I see.

Hope you stay high and dry.
jerhofer
While I cannot finish the plumbing for the fuel line, I was able to mount the fuel regulator and the filter today. I wanted to place them where they will be easily accessible. I chose to mount them on the firewall on the upper left side. I brought out the engine lid and it appears they should both work here. I fastened the fuel filter directly to the regulator to save room.

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The wiring sheath on the firewall is in poor condition. In preparation for wrapping my wiring harness, I bought some Tesa fabric tape specifically made for engine compartments. According to their website, German car manufacturers use this tape. It worked well and was plenty sticky. I liked the appearance it gave. It should make my wiring EFI harness look good.


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Speaking of the EFI harness, I printed the ECU installation instructions. This should keep me busy for a bit.


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jerhofer
QUOTE(914forme @ Sep 13 2018, 09:25 PM) *

COP nice, I am liking that kit more and more I see.

Hope you stay high and dry.



I am very pleased with the quality of the kit.

If we lose power, my generator will allow me to keep the refrigerator and pump going. I might have to shut everything else off so I can still run the AC and lights in the garage!!! After all, there are priorities!!!
Cairo94507
I hope you ride this storm out with no issues. Love the work on your car. beerchug.gif
jerhofer
Very light rain and winds so far today. The heavy rain and higher winds are supposed to start this evening.

I worked on installing the fuel pump today. The pump came standard with a check valve fitting. Richard Clewett says he replaces that fitting with a -6 AN male threads to 10mm x 1.0 Male as shown in the photo below. I could not find this one in black.


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The old fuel pump had been installed across from the steering rack support but my new one is too long to fit there. I used the existing slot in the steering rack support. I widened the slot a bit, using my Dremel tool, so a bolt would fit through it. To reduce fuel pump noise I used some old bushings from one of my parts bins. To make the bolt length work, I had to cut the front side bushing in half to reduce its thickness. Looking in another parts bin, I found a curved piece of steel that would work to attach the hose clamp for mounting the fuel pump. As with most projects like this, much time was spent on finding and fiddling with various parts. I re-did the fuel pump wiring harness to make it both cleaner and more efficient. Since the steering rack cover is still at the powder coater, I won't know for sure if I have an clearance issues. If so, since I am using a slot, I can move everything up if necessary.

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jerhofer
I wasn't happy with the front trunk junction box that was in the car when I got it. There was no cover for it and all of the leads were exposed. It would be easy to short it out.

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I found a unit at Summit Racing that had a cover and looked like it was a quality piece.

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When I installed the fuel pump yesterday, I wasted my time hooking up the wiring as it had been for the old fuel pump. Turns out there is a wiring harness that came with the ECU that has a built in fuse block and relays. This fuel pump draws a lot more amps than the old pump.

After installing the box, I used my Dremel to cut off the extra bolt length inside the fuel tank bay. Perry Kiehl had installed a windshield washer in the trunk. I wired it, and ran a ground and a power lead for the junction box. When I install the radio, I will use this box for power and fusing.

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jerhofer
I didn't get much done on the car last week. After the storm there were lots of branches down in the yard. I have been waiting for the temperatures to moderate before I cleaned up the motorhome after our last trip. I finally gave up waiting for cooler temps. I spent a couple days preparing it for our next trip.


I cleaned up the wiring to the junction box in the front trunk. The wires had previously been run near the shock towers which made them visible. I decided to run them along the oil cooler lines. Since these lines become very warm, I cut up some old spark plug insulators and wrapped them around the oil lines to provide insulation for them wiring. I also ran two extra wires inside the harness for possible future use.

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Upon closer inspection, I found some rust inside the fuel tank. I took it to a local guy to get an estimate for getting rid of the rust and sealing the tank. The cost was $325. Automobile Atlanta had a new tank for $335 shipped. The new tank arrived in a day. I removed the old hose line fittings a week ago. The screen and the crush washers were fused with the fittings. I have had them soaking in a solvent for the past week. Even after all that time, I had to do some friendly persuasion to get the old pieces off. Today I installed the fittings with the new screen and washers. I also transferred the fuel tank sender from the old tank to the new one.


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The EFI ECU was installed in the rear trunk along with the power module containing four fuses and a couple relays. Besides proving power to the ECU, this harness lets the ECU control turning on the fuel pump. Lots of wires to hook up!!!

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My Optima battery arrived. I temporarily set it into place as I will need to hook it up to find my power sources. To make it fit, I had to cut off the extra pieces on each end.

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jerhofer
One should never aerate your lawn and add fertilizer, lime and grass seed a week before a hurricane dumps over 8" of rain on your lawn. Mowing must ensue!! Since formal exercising is not natural for me, I use a walk behind mower to make up for my lack of ambition. I also happen to like how the lawn looks when mowed in this manner. A beer never tastes better than drank when one is hot and sweaty after mowing a lawn!! A case could be made that the beer justifies the entire operation!!!

After sorting through my boxes of miscellaneous metal, I found a piece that I could modify to make a battery hold down bracket for the Optima battery. After much fiddling, I had a piece that would work. I couldn't make it symmetrical as the fastener is not centered in the battery tray. With the hold down in place, the battery is very secure. After cleaning it up, I blasted and painted it.


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The seat tracks needed some attention as well. Blasting and painting them made them look better.

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jerhofer
I worked on the power harness wiring for the EFI today. I found 12V ignition at the main engine plug. Since the battery is near, running the constant 12V and the ground was relatively easy.

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Since the power harness turns on the fuel pump, I had to run a line to the positive side of the fuel pump. To get into the tunnel, I pulled the main grommet out of the tunnel and drilled a small hole in it for the wire to run through. After feeding the wire through th grommet, I fed the wire forward through the tunnel and then out into the fuel tank bay. I ran out of time to finish it up so that will be first on tomorrow's agenda.


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jerhofer
First thing this morning I received a text message from my powder coater saying the steering rack shield was finished. I am $10 poorer but it looks great.


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Now it was time to see if the fuel pump cleared it. It didn't. So I removed the pump and cut the rubber insulators and washers to allow for room to raise the pump in the slot on the steering rack. This worked and all was good.


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jerhofer
Now I could finish up the fuel pump wiring. I used a ground on one of the bolts for the master cylinder and ran the plus wire out of the fuel tank bay to the pump.

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At the other end of the car, I couldn't find a good way to get the wire up to the battery area and then back to the trunk. I finally decided to remove all of the fabric tape I had applied to the wiring harness and rout the wire up through the harness and then over to the right side of the engine bay. I used a wire to pull the wire up through the harness boot. After soldering the wire from the front of the car to the wire from the power harness and running it over to the negative lead for the battery, I re-applied the fabric tape to the wiring harness boot.

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jerhofer
After being busy with other things the past few days, I got back to working on the car today. After installing the new wheels, the wheel studs for the rear were the right size but the front ones were too short. I did some measuring and ordered ten 56mm studs for the front wheels.

This afternoon I began wiring the harness for the fuel injectors. I have done quite a bit of wiring in my past but this is the first time I have worked with weatherpack connectors. So there is a learning curve. The fuel injector plug uses a GT-150 female terminal. The seal is built into the plug so it does not use a seal on the wire. Richard Clewett says he uses the weatherpack crimper with all of the connectors in his kit. After some trial and error, I figured out how that crimper worked with these terminals. But not until I had already used up the extra three terminals, and then some, that Richard had sent. I have more on the way.

There are pull through terminals which means the wire has to be run through the plug, the terminal crimped and then then the wire is pulled back to lock the terminal in place. With the terminals in place, i can re-insert the seal into the plug. At Automobile Atlanta, I found these fuel injector boots. They may not be necessary but add an OEM touch to the wiring.

The TEC GT-200 ECU is capable of running a number of different types of fuel injection. Richard's kit is set up for sequential fuel injection which explains the need for the cam sensor. There are six output channels from the ECU. Channel one goes to the first cylinder in the firing order, which on a 911 engine is cylinder one. Channel two goes to the next cylinder that fires, cylinder six in a 911 engine. It is critical that the output channels are wired to the corresponding injector.

The output channel wire goes to the left side terminal of the injector. The right side is connected to the purple/white wire in the power harness. The injectors in wired in parallel so every injector's right side terminal will be the wired to this same wire. I couldn't find a purple/white wire locally so this solid purple wire will have to suffice.


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jerhofer
After making a Sam's run this morning, I finished up the wiring on the fuel injectors, save one where I had used up all of my terminals. The additional terminals are supposed to be here tomorrow.

I then moved on to the wiring for the Coil On Plug's (COP). The terminals for these plugs used the weatherpack seal on the end of the wire. Another learning curve happened here and I progressively became faster at doing the wiring as the afternoon wore on. However, it was time consuming making the crimps and then getting the terminal to seat in the plug. I can see why Richard charges $900 for a custom wiring harness.

There are four wires to each of the plugs. One is a ground to the engine. Another is a reference ground from the ECU. Another is a 12V source while the last one is the firing signal wire for cylinders. One wire fires cylinders 1 & 4, another fires cylinders 3 & 6 while the other one fires cylinders 2 & 5.

The COP's that came with the kit had a tab that prevented the plug from being attached. A call to Richard confirmed that those tabs needed to be cut off. He said he was having trouble getting the parts and that these COP's could be used with another plug as well as the ones that came with the kit. The tabs were easily removed.


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Lucky9146
Nice detail work, keep at it! beerchug.gif
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jerhofer
I finished up the COP plugs today. The terminals used on both the injector and COP plugs are called metripack. The MSD crimper die I have is for the weatherpack terminals. Richard says he uses the weatherpack crimper for all of the terminals. I struggled with that a bit as I had to do the crimp on the seal again to make it small enough to fit into the plug. That's one reason why it took me so long to do these crimps.

I was doing some studying on crimping when I came across someone saying that, for the weatherpack terminals, the OEM Delphi crimper works best. One advantage it has over the MSD crimper is that it has a guide for the terminals. You simply insert the terminal into the guide and it perfectly positions it. I ordered one and it came today. The MAP sensor is the first plug to use the weather pack terminals. The Delphi crimper made perfect crimps each time. It won't work with the other style of terminals. One advantage of the MSD crimper is that you can order different dies for different types of terminals. But they do not have one for metripack terminals. Now that I have it figured out, I can use the MSD tool with the weatherpack die to do the metripack terminals.

This is the MSD crimper with a terminal in place.

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This is the Delphi crimper.

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jerhofer
With the new crimper, it did not take long to do the three wires for the MAP plug.


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I also spent some time pulling each wire that i have used so far out of the harness, cutting it to a length that will go from the ECU to the bulkhead plug that I will be using and labeling them. I then inserted each plug in place and tidied bunched up the wires in preparation for the final running of the wires.

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jerhofer
Usually my project cars move along a bit faster than this one. Other things that have to be done keep popping up. Such is life.

More wiring was completed today. The crank trigger cable is shielded and contains a red, black and bare wire. These are very small wires so I doubled up the stripped wire to have more wire to crimp to.

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The cam sensor wiring was next.


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Next up was the head temp sensor.

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And then came the air temp sensor.

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mb911
Looks very nice.. Did you find an inexpensive place to buy the battery from? They have gotten really expensive.
jerhofer
Thanks. There was no cheap place to get the battery!
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