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Full Version: Casting call: Tips/tricks for replacing rear shocks
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iankarr
Hi guys

Now that the front end is done (and amazing- thanks again 914 rubber), those crappy white KYBs in the back feel even crappier. Any tips / tricks for swapping them out? This will be my first time doing rear shocks in a 914...

I usually save major-ish work for the winter, but this seems like just a rainy day job.

Thanks!
Shadowfax
Shocks were super easy. Just be sure to use good, safe spring compressors. The instructions in the Haynes manual were quite helpful.
Mblizzard
The rears are certainly an easy rainy day job.

Of course unless they have been off recently start treating the bolts with your penetrating oil of choice!

Of course if possible go for the adjustable coil overs if you can.

Loosening the top bolts can be done with an impact or depending on your shock you can use a wrench or vice gripes to keep the shock from rotating.

Pay attention to the parts as they come out. Lots of times there are missing parts or improperly installed shocks. Reference the PET for all parts.

Click to view attachment

Larmo63
This should be a pretty easy and straightforward job as long as you have all of the parts ready and install them in the right order.

The diagram posted above is SUPER helpful!!!!

Good luck.
Andyrew
Use an impact gun to get that top nut off and if your lazy to put it back on. Leave the bottom bolted up. It probably takes 10 minutes a side working slowly to remove/install a shock/spring combo.
iankarr
Cool. Thanks fellas. Will i need to compress the springs to remove?
Andyrew
QUOTE(cuddy_k @ Jun 26 2018, 08:32 AM) *

Cool. Thanks fellas. Will i need to compress the springs to remove?


Stock springs? Absolutely. They will grow quite a bit when not mounted.
Mblizzard
QUOTE(cuddy_k @ Jun 26 2018, 07:32 AM) *

Cool. Thanks fellas. Will i need to compress the springs to remove?



Never a bad idea. I have seen configurations of springs that did not need a compressor and some that did. Me personally. after doing it the wrong way once, I always use a spring compressor.

mepstein
Not to remove them from the car. They are held at a fixed length by the top cap and nut. Then another nut bolts them in place to the shock tower. You will need a spring compressor the remove and replace the spring from the shock. Once the spring is replaced on the old shock or new shock, it’s held in compression by the top cap. Then you just bolt both ends into the car.

I do have a question about billstein shocks. I have one set that used old Boge bottom spring perch, a billstein spacer and clip. My new shocks have the clip and came with a billstein lower perch and clip but no spacer. The spacer seems to fit on the clip to give the perch good support. Anybody have a comment?
Shadowfax
My springs were so worn that I used the compressors to “hold” the spring taut while I dissambled it. When installing the new springs I did have to crank down on the compressors a bit more to get everything back in place. Used the Weltmeister 100 lb springs as replacements along with Sachs/Boge shocks. Rides nicely driving.gif aktion035.gif
Mblizzard
QUOTE(mepstein @ Jun 26 2018, 08:06 AM) *

Not to remove them from the car. They are held at a fixed length by the top cap and nut. Then another nut bolts them in place to the shock tower. You will need a spring compressor the remove and replace the spring from the shock. Once the spring is replaced on the old shock or new shock, it’s held in compression by the top cap. Then you just bolt both ends into the car.

I do have a question about billstein shocks. I have one set that used old Boge bottom spring perch, a billstein spacer and clip. My new shocks have the clip and came with a billstein lower perch and clip but no spacer. The spacer seems to fit on the clip to give the perch good support. Anybody have a comment?


My Konis sit directly on the clip. You can see that in the attached photo. Should be large enough file to zoom in on. Never had an issue with it. But I have seen where people have made essentially aback up for the clip by using a metal sleeve cut to length that essentially would support the threaded sleeve in the photo or your perch if the clip failed.

Click to view attachment
Mblizzard
On the Bilstien you would have to add another clip because they lack the bottom stop like the Konis.
MikeM
QUOTE(cuddy_k @ Jun 26 2018, 06:21 AM) *

Hi guys

Now that the front end is done (and amazing- thanks again 914 rubber), those crappy white KYBs in the back feel even crappier. Any tips / tricks for swapping them out? This will be my first time doing rear shocks in a 914...

I usually save major-ish work for the winter, but this seems like just a rainy day job.

Thanks!

Ian...this job is pretty straight forward. The sway bar links were the hardest part!!
I used a huge C clamp.
Mike
mepstein
QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Jun 26 2018, 01:28 PM) *

On the Bilstien you would have to add another clip because they lack the bottom stop like the Konis.

agree.gif I was asking if anyone had seen the spacer. It looks like a stock billstein part, not a homemade piece.
jcd914
The last Bilsteins I installed (long long ago) the spring seat had a relief cut into it so it fit over the clip and would not allow it to come out of the groove in the shock body,
No spacers used or needed.

Look at teh spring seats and see if they have the relief cut into them.

Jim

mepstein
QUOTE(jcd914 @ Jun 26 2018, 08:24 PM) *

The last Bilsteins I installed (long long ago) the spring seat had a relief cut into it so it fit over the clip and would not allow it to come out of the groove in the shock body,
No spacers used or needed.

Look at teh spring seats and see if they have the relief cut into them.

Jim

The new silver spring perch that comes with the shock has a relief cut. So I think the spacer with the relief for the clip was needed to use the old boge spring perch but the spacer is not needed with the billstein supplied perch.
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