Putting aside discussion on whether they're needed...a historics group I'm running with (VRG) is insisting I run with drilled and safety-wired engine and trans drain plug fasteners. In a cursory search through common vendors I'm not able to locate any.

Is anyone aware of pre-drilled engine drain bolt, plate/screen bolt, and trans plugs before I spend the coin on a drill jig?

Its not possible to use a drilled trans drain plug without abandoning the factory Allen screw design.
The engine drain plug and sump retaining nuts are unique and probably have to be drilled.
If you bring them here I'll drill them in my milling machine, n/c.

Thanks, Chris!

Yes, it's silly. Even more so that someone told me they're not really worried about drain plugs loosening, it's more a visual confirmation that the competitor had verified that the plugs are tightened...

I pointed out the design of the trans plug; the response was (paraphrased), "there's a little bit of the flange hanging out, you can run a drill bit and wire through that."

Hey, if a piece of wire makes them happy, I'll put a piece of wire through it.

You can get a set of drain plugs from a 911 transmission of the same year. The 914 has "innies" the 911 has "outies". So the 17mm hex head sticks out and can be drilled for safety wire.

Are they going to get you to drill the oil filter as well?

Ya have to admit it's pretty silly.

They make them....

Would a dab of paint suffice then?

It's the OEM method for such things.

Nope, I asked. In fact, anticipating that may be an option I pointed out that not only did I correctly torque the bolts/plugs, that they should notice that I marked with a Sharpie where each bolt was located, and "promised" I would visually check them after each session.

That may have assuaged their fears for last weekend and I was allowed to run, but I was given the ole "fix my next race" requirement.

I like the idea of the "outtie" drain plugs on the transaxle. But they're pricey at around $25-35 each. I've got the idea that in the future I'll build up a trans cooler system for the car, so what I may do for now is buy the Patrick Motorsports plugs that convert the holes to -8AN fittings ($25 ea) and loop an AN line between them for now (I have enough -8AN fittings and hoses to do it myself).

It's easy to overthink this...I just used a 1/16" bit on the exposed edge of the plug and the nearest web of the trans case & looped wire thru them. Same approach on the engine...did it all under the car on a lift. . I've seen sessions black flagged at big events from oil filters loosening...put a big hose clamp around it & wire it to prevent rotation....you don't want to be "that idiot"....

I have a bunch of used "outie" plugs. Hit me up. No where near retail. This is stupid....I just want to help.

Thank you, sir! PM on the way.

Ill get some packed up and sent out ASAP.

Stupid is right! A bit of loose wire is not going to prevent the plugs from unscrewing, just going to catch the plug or filter should it fall out!

Uh, properly done safety wire will stop a bolt from unscrewing. What do you mean by a loose piece of wire? I was a jet mechanic in the Vietnam war. Every nut, bolt, and screw was safety wired, and everytime i wired one a quality control inspector signed off my work. They never came loose.

Properly done is the key phrase here, and safety wires work just fine if there is something close by to secure the wire to, not easily done with a drain plug or an oil filter for our 914's.

Aircraft safety wire can be run between bolts to insure they don't turn. You don't have to wire them to the case on the trans, just to each other to keep them from turning.

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Exactly.

Typically, safety wire won't ensure proper torque on a properly-torqued fastener. But it's a common thing on high-vibrations implementations (FAA required I safety-wired my oil filter, and yet it never-ever vibrated loose...coincidence?)

I've never had a properly-torqued drain plug vibrate loose on any race car I've had in nearly 30 years of racing. But if'n'it'll make 'em happy, I'm ok with breaking out those safety wire pliers that are...well, they're somewhere, I'll find 'em.

It is a simple thing here, you want to race you follow the rule. I get that your not happy about it. I get that it is not a big deal as it has "never" happened with any of your race cars.

Being in a paddock where a car dumped 6 qt on the lineup grid then they all come over and start looking under my 914 saying all these leak to find a bone dry engine bottom. I was pissed, as I prep my races cars like a fanatic. I point at the ass-hat in the XR4TI that oil all over the place. I mean really there is a trail of oil leading over to where the car is and he is loading it on his trailer. Blame the guy in the 914 who hates oil leaks.

So if they want me to do that to keep them from pointing fingers at the 914 guy. I would be more than happy to do it. Bit of time and safety wire makes them happy then, make them happy and go out and race, and enjoy yourself. Matter of fact I am thinking about doing just to make sure they see it was done. I also use paint pens to mark all my bolts to know they are torqued. And would still do it. I do do this with my CV bolts as I have had them back out in my younger days.

And I agree, safety wire is not a sign of something being torqued to specification, but it does make it easier to get a car through tech, and it speeds up tech, then so be it.

Status: Complete, thanks to Dr Evil and Chris Foley.

The idea behind the method of proper safety wiring is that if one of the wired bolts tries to loosen the wire is pulling in a manner that effectively tightens the bolt it is wired to. No slack between bolts is important.

The idea behind safety-wiring oil and trans drain bolts in VRG historics is to use time and money to create someplace to attach safety wire to so someone can glance underneath, see safety wire, check off a box, and pass you for techical inspection.

There, I fixed it!