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1970-1914
I recently bought this partially restored 1970 914 shell off Craigslist for a pretty decent price. I have been looking for quite a while and there are only so many around in the Vancouver BC area and most are quite rusty if they are not $$$$$. The good news is most of the gross nasty metal work was already completed so in that regard I’m pretty far ahead for a project. Also came with quite a few decent parts - some I will use and some I will sell off to get the parts I actually need.

Not sure what I will do about engine choice.... would really like to do a 6 but based on cost I may end up doing a v8 or Subaru? Not sure but luckily I have a ton of other work to do on the rest of the car while I make up my mind.

EDIT: V8 it is - Purchased most of a Renegade SBC kit smile.gif

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The Formula Vee wheels were just way too skinny for the flares so they have been sold and I picked up a set of chrome 15x6 and 15 x7 cookie cutters. Not sure if they will be wide enough either to look correct but the deal was great and they will at least allow me to do the 5 bolt conversion.


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I have one side of the rear suspension all apart and the rear axle stub out - looks like it is the early style with the raised bosses in place for 5 lug. I will update with some pics once that is done and the trailing arm is back together.

TravisNeff
Looks like a great start!
carking1996
Nice. Happy to see where this one goes!
SirAndy
QUOTE(1970-1914 @ Jun 28 2018, 03:35 PM) *
I picked up a set of chrome 15x6 and 15 x7 cookie cutters. Not sure if they will be wide enough

They won't be wide enough, i run 7" cookies all around with GT flares and i run long wheel studs and 1" spacers to get them lined up with the flares nicely.
That's with 225 wide tires ...

IPB Image
1970-1914
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jun 28 2018, 04:14 PM) *

QUOTE(1970-1914 @ Jun 28 2018, 03:35 PM) *
I picked up a set of chrome 15x6 and 15 x7 cookie cutters. Not sure if they will be wide enough

They won't be wide enough, i run 7" cookies all around with GT flares and i run long wheel studs and 1" spacers to get them lined up with the flares nicely.
That's with 225 wide tires ...



Thanks for the pic - I kinda thought this would be the situation.
Mueller
Looks like a great start to fun project.
wndsrfr
QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 28 2018, 02:50 PM) *

Looks like a great start!

agree.gif
Do a 2270 big four....no question.
RickS
Nice looking roller, congrats.

When people commonly use the word ‘restore’ it means return to like new. Are you ditching the fender flares and going back to totally stock or going hot rod?

Edit, never mind, I answered my own question, adding a V8 or Suby motor is building a hot rod.
1970-1914
I will be going Chevy v8 - based on budget and well...mostly budget.
cali914
QUOTE(1970-1914 @ Jul 1 2018, 02:23 PM) *

I will be going Chevy v8 - based on budget and well...mostly budget.

Unless your going to put an LS in there go suby Plug and play. I bet in the end it will save you time and money.
Chris914n6
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jun 28 2018, 04:14 PM) *

QUOTE(1970-1914 @ Jun 28 2018, 03:35 PM) *
I picked up a set of chrome 15x6 and 15 x7 cookie cutters. Not sure if they will be wide enough

They won't be wide enough, i run 7" cookies all around with GT flares and i run long wheel studs and 1" spacers to get them lined up with the flares nicely.
That's with 225 wide tires ...

You can get 16x8 Euromeister Fuchs for under $800. Good tire selection and the right look. The 1" spacer is built into the outer lip biggrin.gif
1970-1914
QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Jul 2 2018, 12:04 PM) *

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jun 28 2018, 04:14 PM) *

QUOTE(1970-1914 @ Jun 28 2018, 03:35 PM) *
I picked up a set of chrome 15x6 and 15 x7 cookie cutters. Not sure if they will be wide enough

They won't be wide enough, i run 7" cookies all around with GT flares and i run long wheel studs and 1" spacers to get them lined up with the flares nicely.
That's with 225 wide tires ...

You can get 16x8 Euromeister Fuchs for under $800. Good tire selection and the right look. The 1" spacer is built into the outer lip biggrin.gif



Yes I was looking at those as well as the dr.911 repro alloys as well. He is only about 30 min from me which is pretty convenient. I was looking at either a15x8 + 15x9 set or the 16x8 + 16x9 set. These were apparently cast in Canada.

https://fuchswheelcompany.ca/wheels

Pierre
1970-1914
No new wheels will happen till I sell these though. I have them up on the local Craigslist for pretty much what I have into them. They are definitely my favorite rim on a 914 but without some serious spacers they just wouldn’t look “right”

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I am in the middle of re-drilling the rear hubs to 5 bolt. I was thinking I could buy longer studs and run 1.5” spacers all around and I think it would look good - just not so sure about spacers that thick on the front?


1970-1914
Got the early dash structure sandblasted and painted.

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1970-1914
I have the rear trailing arms just about ready to reinstall!

Sandblasted and painted trailing arms
New wheel bearings
Re-drilled 5 bolt hubs with longer studs
Open ended lug nuts

Going to start off with the cookie cutters with spacers looks like to start.

bulitt
Good luck with your build !
And really good luck with the "low-buck" part!
Start hawing the classifieds for weather seals...new will run you @1000$ for the entire car...
Not to say it can't be done, stuff adds up $$$
AZ914
Good looking cookies.. put them in the classifieds here!
1970-1914
Looking better back here finally.

I am going to try and see if it looks ok with tires on for lip clearance.

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1970-1914
I picked up a full set of 15x7 cookie cutters and they definitely fit better up front than the 15x6’s did.

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It feels like they are plasti-dipped currently. I would like to paint them like this one I found online at some point:

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1970-1914
Goodbye side markers....

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SirAndy
Please ditch those KYB shocks ...
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1970-1914
Turns out the front bumper that came with the car is not quite as bad as it seemed - solid structure but with a bunch of dents and twists under a lot of poorly applied bondo and Bedliner. It actually fits pretty well now after a bit of hammer and dolly action. I ground off most of the bondo and bedliner. I will cut it open a bit for radiator airflow and then re-bondo.

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1970-1914
Luisi early style hub finally arrived from Europe - fits ok... I may machine the landing at the end of the splines a little bit so it fits a bit closer to the column.

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1970-1914
Since the last update got a few things sorted out:

Passenger side 1/4 panel aligned and welded back on:

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AA FG rockers are here and ready for trimming:

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I have been working on the intake vent in the front bumper and stock lower valence - about 1/2 way there...

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New repro bumper tops are here from 914rubber - Thank you Mark!

And I finally found a decent stock bore 283 short block - It was gone through and assembled about 15-20 years ago and just sat in a shop ever since. I am going to take it apart, check everything and re-assemble.The motor build is kind of on the back burner for now but I am picking up parts as the deals on the right parts arise.

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ValcoOscar
Pierre-

IMHO...I like the look of your front valance mod. piratenanner.gif

Please share some photos once done and before install.

Oscar

1970-1914
QUOTE(ValcoOscar @ Dec 21 2018, 08:52 AM) *

Pierre-

IMHO...I like the look of your front valance mod. piratenanner.gif

Please share some photos once done and before install.

Oscar





Thanks - Will do.
djway
I made a front valance almost identical but I made it out of glass so I may be biased when I say I like it smile.gif
jimkelly
you probably cant go wrong with a brand new $1500 crate engine sbc 350 except that at highway speeds it will be reving a little high for its 3.5" stroke, but less so with H gear swap. too bad a 283 (3" stroke) is not available as a crate engine. though i dont know out what a comfortable highway rpm is for either when combined with a 914 trans. i'm about to replace my leaky 307 with a 283.
1970-1914
Jim,

I thought about one of those 350’s - mostly because it is a quick easy solution. I then decided I should actually just find a decent 283 and deal with the hassle of redoing it to better fit the application.

The short block I found in Seattle is a motor someone rebuilt at some point about 15 years ago and then just sat in a shop until all the assets were bought by the shop I am dealing with. I am heading down to pick it up after Christmas.

The bores still look quite decent. I may be able to get away with disassembling it, quick clean up and re-assemble. Probably will end up changing the cam.

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jimkelly
seems everyone says a 283 needs some modern small chamber heads like trick flow or world and a higher rpm cam.

http://www.competitionproducts.com/World-P...A/#.XB7j71xKjcs

--

QUOTE(1970-1914 @ Dec 22 2018, 11:22 AM) *

Jim,

I thought about one of those 350’s - mostly because it is a quick easy solution. I then decided I should actually just find a decent 283 and deal with the hassle of redoing it to better fit the application.

The short block I found in Seattle is a motor someone rebuilt at some point about 15 years ago and then just sat in a shop until all the assets were bought by the shop I am dealing with. I am heading down to pick it up after Christmas.

The bores still look quite decent. I may be able to get away with disassembling it, quick clean up and re-assemble. Probably will end up changing the cam.

Click to view attachment

1970-1914
I have a nice set of “powerpack” heads that were super cheap - $50 for the set - and have been fully gone through, new valves, guides, beehive springs and light weight keepers. They have 58cc chambers which are pretty tiny but should keep the compression up.

Most say they are not that good any more due to the smaller valves but I am going to try them. I suspect on a larger displacement motor they would be right but on s 283 they may be just fine.

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1970-1914
This motor is coming together incredibly cheap.

283 short block - $200
Heads - $50
Intake and distributor - $30

I still have to buy the 180 degree headers ($300) and Fitech efi setup ($799), Davies Craig water pump ($250) and some misc parts but I should be all in around $1500 - $2000 for the motor which I think is pretty great.
Mike Bellis
I had a 283 in mine and loved it. Not a monster but really quick. You will want a taller 5th gear and maybe lock out 1st (granny gear). Dr Evil can help out with the tranny options.
Nacho
Another nice Chevy small block is the Vortec series. I ran one of these in my 73 Camaro the nice part of the later generation small block was better flowing heads, roller lifters and ability to run roller camshaft. Add a Eldelbrock intake and Holley and you got your self a nice little engine.
jimkelly
that Fitech efi setup looks sweet. i'm gonna run rams horns instead of shorty headers.

according to this video, rams horns are fine to 5200 rpm.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe9ke0rQlT8
jimkelly
just stumbled on this but no details offered.

https://www.fivestarengines.com/shop/chevy-...d-crate-engine/
1970-1914
Here are the Gm performance parts intake and Mallory hei distribultor I picked up the other day off Craigslist for the massive sum of $30. Sbc parts pricing is just so ridiculously cheap compared to anything else.

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jimkelly
hei distributor is a monster but nice to have coil embedded in it. look forward to seeing how you make it fit : )
1970-1914
QUOTE(jimkelly @ Dec 23 2018, 04:34 PM) *

hei distributor is a monster but nice to have coil embedded in it. look forward to seeing how you make it fit : )


Going to be some cutting.... but not until I have the motor and headers assembled to guide the min amount of sheet metal removal.

Likely going to be similar to this example:

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But may have to be this much but hopefully not.

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jimkelly
unless you are going crazy with exhaust, the cuts are probably overkill, as is the supports. you could probably just cut less and box out around the hei. though complete removal of firewall makes accessing engine for various things MUCH easier. there are always pluses and minuses. wear gloves and eye protection with that angle grinder or sawzall-smiley.gif
mgp4591
QUOTE(jimkelly @ Dec 23 2018, 07:10 AM) *

that Fitech efi setup looks sweet. i'm gonna run rams horns instead of shorty headers.

according to this video, rams horns are fine to 5200 rpm.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe9ke0rQlT8


They make ram horns that have a 2 1/2" outlet that's probably more flow than you'd need - they came with the high hp Corvette smallblocks. The small valve heads will get you to that 5200 rpm that the ram horns are good to without a problem. It sounds like a good combination all around.
dan10101
I had a built 283 in a flat bottom boat. It had double hump heads, 10-1 compression, Duntov 30/30 cam, alum manifold and Holley 600. I suspect somewhere around 250-280hp. It moved it really good, but wouldn't idle for beans. Really tough to idle in a 5mph zone with 1000rpms and direct drive.

Chris914n6
FYI - Summit Racing has/had the FiTech on a pretty good sale for Christmas.
jimkelly
turns out these guys offer a 283 crate engine.

https://www.fivestarengines.com/shop/chevy-...d-crate-engine/

Q- can you advise what compression cam pistons crank bore etc etc
thanks
jim

A- "The compression ratio is 9.5:1 (good for pump gas). The pistons are a flat top design. The crank is a re-machined GM 283 crank with all new bearings and computer balanced. Every block is bored oversize and over 90% are .030 (first cut). The cam is a new Comp Cams high energy camshaft with .454 lift and 268 duration. Thank you for your interest. Chris. 623-939-0345"

and

Q- chris, so do they have powerpack heads? do you recommend 600 cfm 4 barrel carb? what horsepower and torque do you expect? thanks again, jim

A- "We do offer the powerpack heads and install 1.94 intake and 1.50 exhaust valves. We do recommend a 600 cfm four barrel carb. The peak HP is 280 at 5000 rpm. Thanks again, Chris."

AND A TIP FROM TOMREV TO ME SOME TIME AGO.

"Stick with a mild cam, add the roller tip steel rockers, like I did, (around $90. a set), small carb, 500 to 600 cfm, headers like mine, but with 2 1/4 in. dia. exhaust pipes, HEI type dist. (mine is MSD, very nice, but $300.), maybe lighten the flywheel some. The 283 is a sweetheart, and with the smaller port aluminum heads ($1100.) from Trickflow really runs nice. Have fun with your build!"
1970-1914
I will disassemble the 283 shortblock I bought and see if I can determine what cam is in it and maybe replace with something more appropriate for higher rpm? From the pics I have it looks like a stock type piston. Possibly worthwhile to go with a slightly higher compression piston set while apart. Won’t really know till after it gets inspected.
jimkelly
i don't know if you ever plan on getting stuck in heavy traffic but i think a less wild engine is probably better for traffic.

especially if you'll be using stock transaxle and avoiding the use of 1st gear, as most do.

2nd gear in stop and go traffic sucks, as it doesnt work well for sub 10-15 mph speeds.

probably would suck much more with a hotter cam and a bunch of compression?

driving.gif
1970-1914
So as the " low-buck v8 outlaw" thread title says suggests... this car is being built on a very low budget and will be a V8. If you have read much before this post most of what is going to happen with this build has been detailed.... so what does this low budget look like and how am I doing?

My goal is to be all built and painted with +/- 250hp for around $5500-$6000.

This is only vaguely possible because the shell purchase was such a ridiculously good deal and I will be doing the remaining fab work, bodywork, paint and assembly myself. Quite honestly that is all the fun stuff for me anyway so looking forward to all that.

Starting with a shell that was media blasted, all rust work done, chassis reinforcements welded in, epoxy primed and the complete underneath painted is a really really big head start in time and money.

Costs so far:

Shell and parts purchased for $1800

Parts sold off:

Riviera wheels - $200
Stock 1.7 - $700
Misc efi parts - $200
Fender lip cut offs - $100
Stock steering wheel - $250

Total cost for shell: $350
biggrin.gif

Parts bought:

Chrome cookie cutter rims - $500 then decided 6" wide was too skinny for the front and re-sold for $700. Bought second painted black set with tires for $250 so current wheels in total were $50.
VB adapter, flywheel, pressure plate and disc - $130
Power pack heads - $50
Intake and HEI distributor - $30
283 Shortblock - $200
2 new 914rubber bumper tops black Friday deal - $470
Front and rear stock used valences - $100
Dash frame and gauges (missing when i bought the shell) - $150
Heater control - $50
Wiper motor and arms - $30
Momo wheel and Luisi early adapter - $150
5 bolt rear conversion (new discs, redrilled early hubs, new wheel bearings and 20mm spacers) $350
Front 5 bolt adapters - for now - $90
Flared FG rockers - $250

All in cost so far: $2094

So right now I have a mostly complete rust free V8 914 for $2100 which I think is a pretty great place to be at this point in the build. smilie_pokal.gif


Still to buy:

Rad and cooling parts - $750
Windshield - $250
Misc v8 parts including headers and exhaust tubing/muffler - $750
Carb or efi set-up - $800
Misc interior parts (carpet, door panel recovering etc) - $500
Paint supplies - $500

Still needed: $3550


Target total cost: $5650


I'll be quite happy if that number jumps up another $1000 or so with the upgrading of the front suspension and brakes. I kind of see that as a phase 2 project after the car is up and running. If I go regular headers and carb instead of the 180* headers and efi it will shave about $1000 off the total. Also I think I can do better than budgeted on the cooling system if the right deals come up.

I would have loved to have gone with a 911 6 motor of some sort but the price point even for a pos core motor and install parts would exceed my projected total budget easily and still would have needed rebuilding $$$$.
mobymutt
Nice!

I'm probably close to your build price, and I have a rusty shell, and some crappy 1.7 I just bought off somebody. biggrin.gif
1970-1914
Haha nice.

Have you gone any deeper disassembling the motor or are you just going to put the heads back on and run it?

Pierre



QUOTE(mobymutt @ Dec 28 2018, 06:28 AM) *

Nice!

I'm probably close to your build price, and I have a rusty shell, and some crappy 1.7 I just bought off somebody. biggrin.gif

jimkelly
i had bad drone at about 2000 rpm with dual exhaust and shitty mufflers. once i changed to magnaflow mufflers, the drone went away, but some say a crossover pipe is a good idea.

and that fitech looks sweeeeet but you can save $500+- in the short term by using a carb BUT i wonder what kind of fuel economy improvement FI will give on a 283 in the long run?

lastly, the guy i got my 283 from advised me to add a zinc additive to my fuel and modern gas is unleaded and the 283 prefers leaded gas. something about wipping out the cam.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Zj0RMPKquw
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