QUOTE(mepstein @ Jul 1 2018, 07:33 PM)
QUOTE(Coondog @ Jul 1 2018, 10:28 PM)
QUOTE(Amphicar770 @ Jul 1 2018, 06:24 PM)
QUOTE(burton73 @ Jul 1 2018, 01:54 PM)
Some people may be parts collector’s. That part in 10 years may be worth a fortune?
Look at old toys in their original boxes. This is a chance to start a collection?
For a concourse 914 guy this would have been grabbed up. Some people just do not care.
Bob B
Could be. Then again, I have also seen the value of NOS parts drop like a rock when either the factory does another production run or an exact repro comes to market. Risky investment.
All the repro lights are junk. I thought 914 rubber looked at making these but backed out due to cost of getting the electrical side done right ???
I recently paid 300.00 for a nos light in the box not because I was that concours guy, but I do take pride in the look of my interior. I found several used ones in the 150 range but they just didn’t have that new look I wanted.
Use an led bulb. They run much cooler. Better for the plastic.
Even if you use the correct type bulb is better for the plastic. Most people & shops just stuck in whichever bulb was handy, which was usually 2x-3x what was spec'd for it!
IIRC Jeff Bowlsby's website has the correct wattage, as does any owners manual, & one member posted his entire 73 manual - & the buld size was the same for 70-76 MYs IIRC - so easy enough to check.
FWIW - Be careful with LEDs too, since some can run hot, sometimes hotter than incandescent cat the base. The light itself is always much cooler, but a low quality converter/transformer or whatever they call that base part can run hot if not good quality. I had a defective LED heat up & melt a new factory OEM sidemarker lens on my 88 Westy after its resto, when I went to all LED exterior bulbs.
Courtesy of Jeff Bowlsby's website:
Click to view attachmentYou can also downsize to a lesser 4-6 W bulb in them too, if you want to stick with a period correct incandescent bulb, but save on heat issues.
Tom
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