I was told by the local P-shop that since i have valve covers off and am doing the push rod tube seals etc that i should check head stud torque- all i can tell you is the car is a 75, verified matching numbers 2.0 motor with 149k miles, last check compression numbers were all 4 @ or better than 130 . i have had the car 9 years, and lots of documentation of previous owners work but nothing about motor refresh in there anywhere. car and motor ran well before pulling motor foe the body ans paint back in December. i was planning on just doing a cosmetic refresh with all new tin and seals, so the oil cooler seals, push rod tube seals And all new tin top and bottom have been on the agenda along with front crank seal.( Rms was done couple years ago and is dry)
anyhow thats all just summary fyi if someone didnt see that info in my renovation thread.
there is just a little long term leakage i guess you would say past the head/cylinder junction.
Advice on the torque specs(23ft#?), and order to retorque is appreciated.

Phil

this picture is of the #1 & 2 cylinders

You can only get to half of them. Won't hurt to check them

all are accessable with the valve covers off yes?

Nope, only the lower ones are accessible with the valve covers off. You need to pull the engine tin to get at the upper ones.

--DD

sorry thought you both new that i was in process of doing all this while the motor was pulled from car and all the upper tin was off as well- i failed to remind everyone of that- i assumed- well
the here is an update - i checked torque ane every one of the lower ones were under torque , under 20 in fact on the 3/4 side, closer to 17. upper ones were just slightly under but all are now right at 23. will see if that makes a difference. AND almost have all the tin back on the motor tonight-