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dan10101
QUOTE(egon @ Aug 26 2018, 07:15 PM) *

Dan,

A big thank you for buying and rebuilding the Screamsicle. I helped Paul with the car for about 6 years. I am also the purveyor of the Gas Can.

I fixed many systems on the car but never got the chance to fully refine them. I'm a bit anal about certain things, i.e. how it looks or can it be simpler. A good example in the "octopus". Once we figured out all the issues with the old one, I build the one on the car from scratch that was stronger and simplified. If you keep the same basic setup around the clutch and brake masters, I'd be more that happy to make a version 2.0 of the carbon fibre mini skid.

Good lucky in the project and I can't wait to see the finished project. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.

--Matt


Thanks Matt. My earlier reply didn't get sent for some reason.
I really appreciate the craftsmanship that you put into your work. I was just looking at the Octopus about an hour ago and noticed the touches you put in the supports. Very high quality. I think I can save the skid. it's intact with two of the bolts ripped out in the impact. It's actually something I'm watching as I put it back together to make sure it fits the same.

Sooo, what is in that gas can??

Thanks,
Dan
dan10101
Update on Mondays progress...

Finally I was able to pull the car in and begin analysis. I spent the day going over the engine to determine what and if there is anything wrong with it. The lifter noise is bothersome but apparently it's a byproduct of aluminum block and heads, high lift cam, headers. My "fix" for this was to make some insulator panels from another project that fit and cover up the headers, leaving the top of the engine exposed. I started the engine and the noise was drastically reduced. I then pulled the panels out with the engine running and it was obvious that the noise was being transmitted thru the headers. I don't know if I can make something that will reduced the noise and still allow heat to dissipate. That is something to work on. Maybe some header wrap. I'll still be going thru the motions of pulling the valve covers, checking lifters, and ensuring all is well under the hood.

A couple of other things I found in my investigation.
The stethascope test revieled that non of the lifters were noiser that any others.
it also revieled that there is also a very noisy injector or 2 that I will be replacing.
1 cylinder (#5) is very weak when checking header temp cyl to cyl. Like 1/2 of the others. The compression test showed that cylinder to be one of the highest, so it's likely an injector, or coil/wire/plug.
All the cyls compression tested between 160 and 180.
There was one plug that was loose, (#4) the others very tight.
There was one plug wire (#1) that lost the end when I removed it. It might have been ok or not before I started messing with things.
The Bore-scope showed a nice pretty interior of the cylinders.

Apparently there is a known problem with the pickup tube getting an O-ring nick on installation that can cause oil pressure to give a false reading (mixing air and oil)
All this can cause the lifter tick in some cars. I need to replace the oil pan gasket, so Ill put that on my list for that job. I also want see if there is any additional baffling I can do 'while I'm in there'.

Today (Tuesday) was spent with the Datsun back in the shop. Some additional Weber tweaks, fixing the chokes and most importantly adding a return line back to the fuel tank helped it run way better. Still needs more work, but first he's going to put some mufflers on that monster.

Tomorrow is another day. hope to begin tear down!
dan10101
Here's a suspension question...

If I convert the 911 Bilstein struts over to coil overs...
https://www.rsrproducts.com/product-page/re...t-coil-over-kit

Would I be able to use the 914 control arms from the other car and connect them to the 911 struts/tie rods/and aluminum center section. Just how interchangeable are the 914 and 911 lower control arms?

trying to kill to birds with one stone.

or leave it as is.. (still need to repair broken lower control arm, possibly RS lower ball joint.)

Porsche 930 Turbo (1988) front suspension complete with aluminum cross
member
• Tangerine Racing 32 mm thru body front sway bar kit with adjustable drop links
• Porsche 930 22 mm Torsion Bars
• Elephant Racing poly bronze control arm bushings
• Elephant Racing de-cambered ball joints
• Rear trailing arms boxed and strengthened
• Bump steer kit
• Steering rack limiter kit
• Bilstein front struts and rear coil-overs
• Eibach 250lb. rear springs, top hats modified with spring helper sleeve and
powder coated, strengthened double wall rear shock towers
ChrisFoley
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Aug 28 2018, 06:39 PM) *


Apparently there is a known problem with the pickup tube getting an O-ring nick on installation that can cause oil pressure to give a false reading (mixing air and oil)
All this can cause the lifter tick in some cars. I need to replace the oil pan gasket, so Ill put that on my list for that job. I also want see if there is any additional baffling I can do 'while I'm in there'.


We replaced the oil pump when the crank was out for new rod bearings. I think that a nicked o-ring was the cause of the spun rod bearing. We were very careful not to allow that to happen during installation of the new pump.

The pistons were left in the cylinders with the rods hanging down while the crank was out.

Not sure if I have the lifter p/n that the GM performance shop used when they replaced the camshaft but I might have that info (in deep storage) somewhere in my old records. In my office I have a box containing the old (1.7 ratio aluminum) rocker arms. A couple have damaged rod cups but would otherwise be re-usable. The box they're in is a Comp Cams Roller Lifter box (p/n 839-16) but no idea if it is from the lifters used in that engine.
ChrisFoley
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Aug 28 2018, 10:39 PM) *

Here's a suspension question...

If I convert the 911 Bilstein struts over to coil overs...
https://www.rsrproducts.com/product-page/re...t-coil-over-kit

Would I be able to use the 914 control arms from the other car and connect them to the 911 struts/tie rods/and aluminum center section. Just how interchangeable are the 914 and 911 lower control arms?
...


The only substantial difference between 914-4 and 911 a-arms is the forward spline embedded in the torsion bar tube. Anti-sway bar mounts can be changed easily enough where necessary. There are no other meaningful differences afaik.
914forme
And the different in spline count on the 914-4 to 911 arms means different torsion bars are required. The -4 arms will work in the AL crossbar, just need to use the -4 adjuster caps instead of the 911 stuff.
dan10101
QUOTE(ChrisFoley @ Aug 29 2018, 06:10 AM) *


We replaced the oil pump when the crank was out for new rod bearings. I think that a nicked o-ring was the cause of the spun rod bearing. We were very careful not to allow that to happen during installation of the new pump.

The pistons were left in the cylinders with the rods hanging down while the crank was out.

Not sure if I have the lifter p/n that the GM performance shop used when they replaced the camshaft but I might have that info (in deep storage) somewhere in my old records. In my office I have a box containing the old (1.7 ratio aluminum) rocker arms. A couple have damaged rod cups but would otherwise be re-usable. The box they're in is a Comp Cams Roller Lifter box (p/n 839-16) but no idea if it is from the lifters used in that engine.


Well, knowing you were in there last makes me feel better. I'm not getting any foaming, so it may be just fine. The other thing I wanted to look at oil pan wise was the oil pan baffling for hard cornering. I suspect it's pretty good stock, but was wondering.

I thought the 1.8s were in there prior to the cam swap. But I guess it makes sense to put a smaller cam in and add the 1.8 rockers to get some of the lift back. Then you could just swap to 1.7s if it wasn't enough to solve the problem. I know it had a lot of problems with pulling studs out of the aluminum head so they went to shaft rockers. I think it's a good plan, I doubt I would ever go back to that nightmare again.

You don't happen to know the latest cam specs do you? from that literally 1 foot stack of papers, that seems to be missing. I guess I can go through them again.
I think I figured out the exhaust specs.
Exhaust only...

114 LSA I don't know if this changes with a 1.8 rocker.
.537 lift (measured on 1.7 rocker)
.565 lift (calculated of internet for 1.8 rocker)

224 duration
235 duration estimate with 1.8 rocker.

again this is exhaust only, but it gives an idea...

Had a little fun today. It's something I do anytime I get a chance. Open Headers.
The funny part is the 1/8" spacers falling off. I didn't know what it was so I shut it down. But, you get the point. smile.gif
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6f-P6CaALPw...eature=youtu.be




dan10101
QUOTE(ChrisFoley @ Aug 29 2018, 06:15 AM) *

The only substantial difference between 914-4 and 911 a-arms is the forward spline embedded in the torsion bar tube. Anti-sway bar mounts can be changed easily enough where necessary. There are no other meaningful differences afaik.


QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 29 2018, 01:26 PM) *

And the different in spline count on the 914-4 to 911 arms means different torsion bars are required. The -4 arms will work in the AL crossbar, just need to use the -4 adjuster caps instead of the 911 stuff.


Ok, so I think I have 2 options.
My current setup is all 911.
If I use the control arms from the 914, I can use the front and rear connections to the 911 torsion bar and use the 914 control arm with my 22mm 911 torsion bar. My issue there is is already has Elephant racing bushings. I would need to replace the pressed on bushing onto the 914 control arm. (that is actually an issue with either solution. )

If I buy the coil over kit it doesn't matter which cap ends I use since I won't be using a torsion bar. But I still need a solution to the Elephant racing bushings that are on the bent/broken drivers control arm .

I guess I have a third option. To repair and reinforce the bent/broken drivers side control arm. Then I can keep the elephant racing bushings intact.

One other suspension issue is the cap missing from the passenger side lower ball joint. I'll look at that tomorrow and see if it's loose or not.

Oh, one success for today is all the suspension is off the car. Well, except for the sway bar and the aluminum cross bar on the front end. The fuel line went thru it, so I need to drain the fuel tank to remove it. Not a bad thing, just messy.

I have to say this car is a dream to work on. So clean, so well put together. I did a rusty old jeep a few months ago. Uggg......

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dan10101
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Aug 24 2018, 04:43 PM) *

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Aug 24 2018, 01:01 PM) *

What ET did you determine you need?


Math ug...

1"=25.5mm

It's 50mm et now.
plus 3" spacer 76.5mm
If i move it back to a 1" spacer and a 0et, I would be just outside the current location by .5mm

0 ET calculations.
-76.5mm + 50mm = 26.5mm
1" spacer = 25.5mm
leaving 1mm difference, ( can live with that but not much more)

-26.5mm ET calculations
-76.5mm + 50mm = -26.5mm

So, if you're still reading.
either 0mm ET
or -26ish ET

The deeper the better...



Ok, so the fronts are 3" the rears are 2". It's really tight for the rear tires. 11" with only supposed to fit 10". I think I'm going to repair the 2 front rims and go with what I have for right now. Then I can explore other options later.
ChrisFoley
I found the 6/24/2010 invoice from J&M Motorsports with p/n info:
Comp Cams Camshaft LS1: 3114R/3753R 54-000-11
T&D 1.8 Ratio Rockers: PK-1.8 TD
LS1 Valve Spring Upgrade Kit: TFS-2500300
Valve Cover Spacers: 3060800
5/16 x .116 4130 7.300 Pushrods 5116-7300

Use 911 a-arms. You want those big torsion bars or you'll end up with oversteer again.
dan10101
QUOTE(ChrisFoley @ Aug 30 2018, 06:42 AM) *

I found the 6/24/2010 invoice from J&M Motorsports with p/n info:
Comp Cams Camshaft LS1: 3114R/3753R 54-000-11
T&D 1.8 Ratio Rockers: PK-1.8 TD
LS1 Valve Spring Upgrade Kit: TFS-2500300
Valve Cover Spacers: 3060800
5/16 x .116 4130 7.300 Pushrods 5116-7300

Use 911 a-arms. You want those big torsion bars or you'll end up with oversteer again.


Thanks Chris. I have that, but I did some more searching and finally found a Comp Cams PDF that shows their grind specs. I don't know why they don't refer you to that when you search their website. Those pushrod numbers may come in handy down the road a bit..

I meant to point out that the comp cam number 54-000-11 is a cam blank for custom grinds. But the PDF I found shows the specs on the grinds so we're good.

In English the advertised specs with 1.7 rockers are:
Intake .544 lift 281 duration
Exhaust .534 lift 278 duration

With 1.8 rockers
intake .576 lift 295 duration
exhaust .565 lift 291 duration

This is all more for me so I can find it later.
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP2011/p...011_417-493.pdf


As far as the control arm question. Can you get elephant bushing sleeve that press onto the replacement control arm without having to order the whole set?
dan10101
Thursday update

I finished with removing the suspension and made an executive decision to not pull the engine. What can I say, I'm lazy and was only going to do it because I was curious. Well, I'm not that curious. So I decided to just pull the trans so i could connect the jig to the rear trans mounts. So the trans is now out and the next step is to connect the Jig to the body and see where we stand.
The initial try showed me ai need to trim some excess material around one of the plates in the back. Then it should drop down.

I did notice that a prior mod to mount the clutch and brake master cylinders eliminated one of the mounting points for the drivers front control arm. I'll need to see if that will be a problem keeping it from dropping down all the way. Or if I need to put it back or just eliminate it.

Click to view attachment
914forme
So the 911 Torsion bar will not fit the 914-4 arms.

If you go coil over torsion bars do not matter. I would get a plug for the end of the arm though.

Elephant Racing Bushings are nice, and for the poly bronze set I had, they sold me a set of the base sleeves front and rear when I swapped the control arms and rear arms. I would just contact them and see if they can provide sleeves for the arms. You could also have a set machined. And if they are not damaged the instructions say to install with a base of JB weld if required. JB weld can be neutralized with a bit of heat from a torch and they will pull off if reduced effort.


burton73
I want to point out that the suspension points is there on your car just the one piece shown was removed to fit the box for the peddles for brake and clutch master. My V8 car with 930 is the same. Bill that built your car was very kind to me and gave me the bent metal to fit these parts. The suspension is bolted to the front points and the point where the rack is. The under-sway bar point on the driver’s side is not there and our cars (mine and yours) need the over the top bar like you have. Now the cover will not have 4 points to bolt up. I am working that out


Bob B
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914forme
Bob and Dan, you don't need it as three points make a plane. I would just add a piece to keep the noise down from vibration and be done.

I have the same issue with my pedal box, I think I can replicate the threaded receiver for the under tray as it is in the same plane as the floor. So I have an early metal cross bar that I will use to make sure it is in the correct place. Also have a long stick to measure the distance back to the rear suspension console. And of course that measurement is documented off these points in the drawings I have. My MCs are all inside the car on my box as of right now, as I wanted to be able to adjust the pedals if need be.

Most likely another detail I over thought on that car. confused24.gif
dan10101
QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 31 2018, 06:55 AM) *

So the 911 Torsion bar will not fit the 914-4 arms.

If you go coil over torsion bars do not matter. I would get a plug for the end of the arm though.

Elephant Racing Bushings are nice, and for the poly bronze set I had, they sold me a set of the base sleeves front and rear when I swapped the control arms and rear arms. I would just contact them and see if they can provide sleeves for the arms. You could also have a set machined. And if they are not damaged the instructions say to install with a base of JB weld if required. JB weld can be neutralized with a bit of heat from a torch and they will pull off if reduced effort.


I'll see if they will come off easily. If not and I can get sleeves from ER, I'll do that. Good to know you were able to do that.

I probably will just get another new 911 A-Arm. I don't want it to be weird down the road with 1 914 and 1 911. Then I can start with the existing 22mm torsion bars and then later I can change to coil overs.


dan10101
QUOTE(burton73 @ Aug 31 2018, 11:31 AM) *

I want to point out that the suspension points is there on your car just the one piece shown was removed to fit the box for the peddles for brake and clutch master. My V8 car with 930 is the same. Bill that built your car was very kind to me and gave me the bent metal to fit these parts. The suspension is bolted to the front points and the point where the rack is. The under-sway bar point on the driver’s side is not there and our cars (mine and yours) need the over the top bar like you have. Now the cover will not have 4 points to bolt up. I am working that out

Bob B


Looks like a nice build. How long ago was that?

I don't see the cover as structural. Although the original strap seemed to be. Here's what happened to this one in the wreck.

Click to view attachment
dan10101
QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 31 2018, 02:54 PM) *

Bob and Dan, you don't need it as three points make a plane. I would just add a piece to keep the noise down from vibration and be done.

I have the same issue with my pedal box, I think I can replicate the threaded receiver for the under tray as it is in the same plane as the floor. So I have an early metal cross bar that I will use to make sure it is in the correct place. Also have a long stick to measure the distance back to the rear suspension console. And of course that measurement is documented off these points in the drawings I have. My MCs are all inside the car on my box as of right now, as I wanted to be able to adjust the pedals if need be.

Most likely another detail I over thought on that car. confused24.gif


I like the carbon fiber cover to protect the master cylinders. But I may move them over to the drivers left a bit. I feel like I'm twisting myself to reach the pedals. And my not so big feet feel really big. I also plan to lower and turn the drivers seat a degree or 2 to put the steering wheel in front of the driver.

I will probably run a tube from the strut tower to the front of the lower control arm. probably overkill, but i don't want any question of the strength.
dan10101
Friday Update
In trying to lower the car onto the jig I ran into a few spots that needed work.
trimming the front of the rear lower control arm.
eliminating the motor mounts
eliminating the point where the master and clutch cylinder are located, ( as just discussed)
And unfortunately eliminating the rear trans mounts. Apparently they are modified and my pickups were too long. However, they were located in the right position forward to back. That at least told me it should have been correct. Also they removed the slant. I tried to do the same, but they are still to long. so I just hacked them off. the other pickup points in the rear started easily with finger threading the bolts. So i'm confident the rear section is in the right location.

The pictures below are where the front pickup points differ from the Jig. that will soon be 'fixed'.

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burton73
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Aug 31 2018, 06:19 PM) *

QUOTE(burton73 @ Aug 31 2018, 11:31 AM) *

I want to point out that the suspension points is there on your car just the one piece shown was removed to fit the box for the peddles for brake and clutch master. My V8 car with 930 is the same. Bill that built your car was very kind to me and gave me the bent metal to fit these parts. The suspension is bolted to the front points and the point where the rack is. The under-sway bar point on the driver’s side is not there and our cars (mine and yours) need the over the top bar like you have. Now the cover will not have 4 points to bolt up. I am working that out

Bob B


Looks like a nice build. How long ago was that?

I don't see the cover as structural. Although the original strap seemed to be. Here's what happened to this one in the wreck.

Click to view attachment



Shot today!

Bob B
914forme
Oh I thought you where replacing both sides.

Yes keep them the same otherwise down the road it would get confusing.

As for the lower cover I like the idea of laying up a carbon fiber cover, which I did not think about, but will be stealing that idea for my build.

dan10101

Finally another update

I haven’t been resting on my laurels, whatever those are…
After connecting the white car to the Jig I made a half-assed attempt at a pull to see what that would look like. I quickly determined that the front jig arms need to be removed in order to make the pulls.

I should take a step back and say that I decided to try to pull the front end back into the proper location. I’ll still be replacing much of the front end, but this will make a better starting point.

So the week has been a bunch of background work, drilling holes for the cross braces so they could be relocated into the correct position once I was ready to check the pulls or begin attaching the new front end sheet metal. Then I cut off the cross bracing taking off the front suspension point arms with them. I did actually reattach the trans mounts to the Jig. Just another strength point more than anything else.
I ordered a set of pulling rams from Harbor Freight. 25% off helps.

I’m still experimenting with bracing, and how to lock down the chassis to make the pulls. I found a nearby tree that may come in handy. The problem is the pulls need to be down and the tree is ….up the hill.

I also made a tool to measure different points from one chassis to the other. I know that’s what the jig is for, but this is for double checking.

All that and some more Datsun tuning.

That's about all for now..
Thanks for listening to my babbling..
Andyrew
Why don't you pull down on your jig? Reinforce the base some more so it can't move/twist with pulling and pull on it after anchoring it to the floor?

Those construction grade expansion bolts have really high tinsel strength, like 2k lbs each for a 3/8" bolt. Plenty to keep the jig in place while making pulls.
dan10101
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 8 2018, 01:41 AM) *

Why don't you pull down on your jig? Reinforce the base some more so it can't move/twist with pulling and pull on it after anchoring it to the floor?

Those construction grade expansion bolts have really high tinsel strength, like 2k lbs each for a 3/8" bolt. Plenty to keep the jig in place while making pulls.


I actually bought anchor bolts yesterday. 3/4" because I already have a good hammer drill bit in that size. I still plan to build arms to pull from, but if I can get at least one maybe 2 pulls done without building a contraption, I'll be ahead of the game. The pull point would need to be about 2-3 feet away from the jig if I build something. It's these little side projects that take up so much time.

Car show weekend. Cars and Coffee, Jacksonville Car show, and 4x4 truck show.
ChrisFoley
Rather than anchor my platform directly to my floor I set screw anchors in the floor a short distance outboard of the corners, and then threaded forged eyebolts into them.
I welded short angle irons to the beams of the platform with a hole in the protruding leg and used heavy turnbuckles to attach between the angle irons and the eyebolts.
That way I can easily remove them when I'm done and the floor won't have anything sticking out.
Cracker
agree.gif
dan10101
QUOTE(ChrisFoley @ Sep 8 2018, 08:59 AM) *

... I set screw anchors in the floor a short distance outboard of the corners, and then threaded forged eyebolts into them.


I don't quite get this part.

Is this kinda what you're talking about?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shield-Anchor-Eye-...WUAAOSwQN5aVfYm

Not shipping to the US..
https://www.amazon.co.uk/M12-Eye-Bolt-Shiel...ds=eye+bolt+m12

Any good hardware resources online?
ChrisFoley
Not quite. Eyebolts like that won't handle the loads.
These are what I used:
Female screw anchors
Eyebolts
Turnbuckles
dan10101
QUOTE(ChrisFoley @ Sep 8 2018, 10:57 AM) *

Not quite. Eyebolts like that won't handle the loads.
These are what I used:
Female screw anchors
Eyebolts
Turnbuckles


Thanks for the quick reply. I happened to be in Lowes at the time and was able to find the female screw anchors there. No eyebolts, but I'll order or make something. I also picked up some turnbuckles.

Still exploring options for pulling. I anticipate making a contraption to make the main pull. Then we'll go from there.

Thanks again everyone for pitching in with suggestions.
914forme
Forged Turnbuckels, the cheapies found in most box hardware stores will bust open with shrapnel flying if your unlucky. If lucky they stretch and snap, lots of potential energy built up in the turn buckle.

Be safe man, don't skimp on the basic hardware.

Chris's suggestions are great.
dan10101
QUOTE(914forme @ Sep 9 2018, 06:57 AM) *

Forged Turnbuckels, the cheapies found in most box hardware stores will bust open with shrapnel flying if your unlucky. If lucky they stretch and snap, lots of potential energy built up in the turn buckle.

Be safe man, don't skimp on the basic hardware.

Chris's suggestions are great.


The ones I got were from Coastal. 2200# like the ones Chris posted.
But good point. Weak links and all that... I'll try not to use them just take up slack in other ways.
dan10101
Today's update:

I decided to try to remove the Elephant bushings (races) from the broken lower control arm. I heated it up with a torch to break the JB weld that is supposed to be holding them on. I did get it to move, but not without making a mess of the bushing/race. So I made a call to Elephant and found they do indeed sell just the races. $50 and they'll be here in a couple days.

Next was to remove the decambered ball joint. I spent way too long modifying another tool to fit the ball joint. But alas, it was too much for me and after almost sending myself to the hospital (no I'm fine) I went to plan B. No worries, the control arm is toast so I just cut a notch in it and popped it with a chisel. Came out easy doing that and no damage to the threads or ball joint. Why didn't I think of that in the first place...

Ordered a new ball joint nut and 911 control arm.
Should be good to go in a few days.
Having two good control arms in hand will make the next steps easier.

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dan10101
Happy 914 Day!

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Andyrew
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Sep 14 2018, 07:54 PM) *

wub.gif
dan10101
A bit overdue for an update. But the biggest one is I'm still waiting on the pump for the rams. The original one I ordered will do fine as a replacement pump for my engine hoist jack. So I reordered the correct hand pump 10ton.

in the meantime. I've gathered most of the parts I needed for suspension repair. i picked up a new lower control arm. New Elephant Racing 'races' for the same. New ball joint rings and a new tie rod end to replace the bent one. I put together the new control arm and it's ready to go. The pass side lower ball joint was missing the plug on the bottom. Remember these are cambered ball joints that go for 380 a pair. They are both very tight and in great condition. Well the pass side took some downward force that popped the Epoxied plug out of the bottom. I was able to easily push it back into place with just the right amount of force. I made a replacement plug and epoxied it back in place. I just need to steal a good boot off the blue car and hope it fits, then the control arms will be ready to go.
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i installed the inner and outer tie rod ends on the Drivers side of the rack. The only problem there was not having a skinny wrench to remove and install the inner end. i was proud of my shade tree invention to make my fat wrench work.
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i need to pick up a needle greaser since none of this has zert fittings. Well the Elephant racing bushings do. yay!

I did some sanding on the hood to make it ready for some fiberglass repair. I put my WCC 914 hoodie to good use to keep me from itching all day.
Click to view attachment

I was able to find the concrete anchors that Chris and others recommended. It works much better than having bolts sticking up. I was able to anchor the car on 4 sides and it's not going anywhere.

Probably the best thing that happened over the last week or 2 is that a good friend from church is a former bodyman. He's done many of these types of repairs. And from the pictures they were done very well. He even built an all steel 914 gt race car body. I invited him over to see and analyze the damage from an experts point of view and since he's retired and bored, he jumped at the chance.

He came up with several options of where to cut, how to pull, types of stitching, etc. Fortunately for me one of my favorite options was one of his options. We still haven't decided on the where to cut part, but we will once the pulls are made and it's somewhat straight.

On to actual repairing of the car! Since I don't have a proper puller, I started using the 8k come-along and pulling out the driver door hinge area. it's pretty close. looking at the donor/blue car hinge area, it actually has a tear and rust near the bolts, so I may be piecing two of these together.

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Andyrew
You should post a picture of the bracing you did to the lift smile.gif

Great progress!!!


That hood will be easier to repair than you think I bet smile.gif
dan10101
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 22 2018, 10:03 AM) *

You should post a picture of the bracing you did to the lift smile.gif

Great progress!!!

That hood will be easier to repair than you think I bet smile.gif


This is what Andrew was talking about. I put a brace across the top to keep the top ridged. It in there tight. The bolts are just to keep it from falling on my head.
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I don't mind fiberglass work, i just hate the sanding. So far that hasn't been so bad. I need to do some reinforcement where the bad cracks, now holes are. But even my body man friend (Michael) said that won't be a problem.
dan10101
We finished with pulling the body prior to cutting the front end off. The intention here was not to make it straight, but to move the body back into position so when we attach the new pieces they will line up.

This week (and most of last week) is all about replenishing the empty bankbook. I'm taking 21 bins of auto parts to The Medford (Swap) Meet. Also, lots of stuff that won't fit in bins. Eventually there will even be some 914 parts but not this trip. I keep everything until I'm sure I don't need it. (yes, that's why I have 21 bins...)
Hey, any other swap meets around? I'm thinking I need another one before I unload all the leftovers...

before pulls
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after pulls
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dan10101
Update for 10-18-18
We gave it a BOB!
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Ok, stepping back a bit. The swap meet was a financial success, but I ended up with about the same amount of parts left over. Still it was worth it to keep the project moving.

Getting back to the car.
I removed all the parts and accessories from the front end and after careful consideration (and going back and forth a bit) Michael (my bodyman friend and advisor) and I determined where the first cuts would be.
Then we went for it! Off with its nose!
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I then started drilling out spot welds for the driver’s side damage using a nice tool that Michael brought over. I spent the next 2 days peeling off the sheet metal between the door jam and the tower. I’ll have a bit of cleanup to do where the spot welds were, but it will be stronger and fully welded when it’s back together.
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Next up is more measuring and documenting on the blue car. Then we’ll begin spot weld drilling on the blue car.
dan10101
Once the inner fender was removed, I saw an opportunity to increase the foot pedal space by removing a boxed section. It’s already been reinforced with the pedal mount and I’ll add more to it by tying it into the long. I may even sacrifice some more inner fender to gain foot space. The tire can’t reach that section and its one area that I want to improve.

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Andyrew
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Oct 18 2018, 03:07 PM) *

Once the inner fender was removed, I saw an opportunity to increase the foot pedal space by removing a boxed section. It’s already been reinforced with the pedal mount and I’ll add more to it by tying it into the long. I may even sacrifice some more inner fender to gain foot space. The tire can’t reach that section and its one area that I want to improve.

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I can't say I've seen this before but it shouldn't be an issue for your caged end result. Plus I'm sure you'll box it in appropriately when everything else is done smile.gif

I like the progress on cutting it all out! Spot welds will make things easy to reweld.
dan10101
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Oct 18 2018, 09:47 PM) *

QUOTE(dan10101 @ Oct 18 2018, 03:07 PM) *

Once the inner fender was removed, I saw an opportunity to increase the foot pedal space by removing a boxed section. It’s already been reinforced with the pedal mount and I’ll add more to it by tying it into the long. I may even sacrifice some more inner fender to gain foot space. The tire can’t reach that section and its one area that I want to improve.

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I can't say I've seen this before but it shouldn't be an issue for your caged end result. Plus I'm sure you'll box it in appropriately when everything else is done smile.gif



Yeah, it would probably be fine, but I'll probably add some reinforcement to this section between the long and the inner fender. I'm surprised that factory left the inner top portion of the long unattached to the inner fender.
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ChrisFoley
Looks good Dan!
tygaboy
NICE work! That has to be a bit nerve wracking to slice off that much of your baby. Crunched up, but still... good on you.
Keep up the great progress! aktion035.gif
Zippy69
Wow Amazing dissection Dan! I am actually seeing some parts of the car that I have never seen before. Just when I thought I have seen every inch.

Incredible amount of progress in 3 short months. You have been very busy. It is clear this car landed in the right persons hands! Keep up the good work and updates.

Thx,

Previous owner (and guy who wrecked it) Paul
dan10101
Thanks everyone.

I know there are those that could do it better, but I have a good mentor looking over my shoulder keeping me honest. I probably wouldn't have taken it down this far, but I'm glad I did. Yeah, it was tough cutting it up, but I had plenty of time to prepare myself for it.

Eye on the prize..

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dan10101
Ok, at least I feel like I'm making some progress.. Believe it or not I've been working almost every day. My days aren't as long as others, but as long as I don't stop, it will eventually get done.

sawzall-smiley.gif sawzall-smiley.gif sawzall-smiley.gif sawzall-smiley.gif

I still have a bunch of cleanup work. Drilling spot welds, trimming different sections. figuring out the strut tower.

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My 914
I admire your patience in working on this project.
tygaboy
GREAT shot! Makes me feel like I'm sitting in an operating theater, privileged to be observing MAJOR surgery! Wait.... I am!

Keep up the awesome work, Dan. As you said, continual progress, little though it may be at some times, and all of a sudden, it'll be done! Thanks for taking us on this journey.
dan10101
QUOTE(My 914 @ Nov 3 2018, 09:49 AM) *

I admire your patience in working on this project.


smile.gif my patience is driving by body man mentor crazy. He keeps telling me it would be done by now if he was doing it.

I will admit to changing directions several times.
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