Yes, My TIG uses pure argon. but I also have the option to use the Eastwood spool gun to weld aluminum. Also pure argon. Well, i do if I get my welder back.
The TIG is DC only, so it's limited.

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Back in Business!
I probably should just finish welding it, but I wanted to just get it solid enough to get it in a rolling state. I'm now at that point. The new welder is doing well, I'm dealing with my inadequacies in welding enough to correct my mistakes. I have a few more stitch welds to do and then I'll call it good enough to roll.

I hope to have 4 tires on the ground by the new year. Yeah, I'll have to pull it back apart to finish welding it, but at least then I can be up in the air and not on my back to do the underneath stuff. the rest will be the same if I were to do it now or later.

Doing it this way I can get an idea of the alignment and corner balance before I lock it in permanently.

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Wishing everyone the merriest of Christmases...

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I love this build. Respect respect. But the welds are making me cringe. Learn circles and how everything melts. Pooping along a line does not make a weld. Please don't take offense, I mean none.

They are sitting a bit proud. I'll check for penetration next time I get out there. It is my best effort at a stitch weld so no C's but still I need to find a way to get more heat in it without burning thru. I used a copper backer and it seems to keep it from burning thru maybe I can turn up the heat a bit or let it sit a bit longer. I'm open to suggestions. I'll get the test metal out and try a few things. On this particular section I can run a bead or on the backside and now it should take more heat with the lumps I have there.

Anyway always open to suggestions.

Thin metal with high penetration = lots of little tacks. Timing your tacks to allow for slight cooling of the metal. IE zap. Zap. Zap. The "." Is a slight pause. Probably just enough to move the wand and an extra 10th. That pause will be determined by your blow through. IE a few tests. The less the pause the higher the penetration the lower the higher the pause the more prone to failure the metal will be due to the heat cycling of the metal.

Focus on having an angle to your stick (45deg to the material) as well as timing. You want the tack to be full enough to cause full penetration but not to create too much material. Overlap the tacks 33% for a nice looking bead and to allow you to put more heat in the next tack.

If you can run quarter inch lines then great but thin sheet metal or thinned metal from grinding can de difficult and butt welding makes that more difficult. This technique can be easily learned and slowly progressed into tiny C's with slight timing spacing for heat. (Or a longer C arch to allowed for slight cooling of material).



It's one of those things thats difficult to explain unless I'm doing it. You just sort of figure out what the metal needs at that moment and adjust the settings and your technique accordingly.


The pics you sent me looked like a great end result. I wouldn't spent too much time worrying about the technique. It's obvious your getting good penetration and your going to get into lots of spots very shortly where you'll be extremely limited on the technique you'll be able to do due to space and angle and positioning.

If you find your building too much material and not enough penetration on the tacks then turn up your heat.

the backside tells the story..

I find when I cant see the puddle that I wind up laying on too much material. When I can see well the welds are much better.
My helmet always goes to dark.
Volts
Wire speed
Motion of torch
find the right combo and you are golden.

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll break out the test metal and work it over some more.

Dan. Thank you for posting every step. This is what helps all of us learn, and this project is epic. Merry Christmas.

I hope someone gets something out of it besides me.
It's actually kinda funny that I've gotten help from myself with something I posted 15+ years later. Or something I asked and someone else posted the answer. But then again, I have a very short memory, so that could have been last year, (or last week).
My thoughts are rambling, I should stop...

I set a goal to get it on 4 wheels by the end of the year.
I'm happy to say it's rolling.

The main goal at this point is to make sure it is straight. That the corner balance is good and and that it will align. Initial checks look good, but that's for the new year.

So, Everyone celebrate the new year!
Make good decisions, eat better, exercise more, finish your project, be adventurous, love your family and friends and strangers!

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I tack about 2" apart, then go back and tack halfway between the two spot welds and keep repeating until the gap is filled. It takes patience and practice, but prevents warpage and assures excellent penetration.

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Yes! It's hard sometimes because you want to keep running that beautiful circular bead weld all day. But with sheet metal, gotta spread the tacks or it will warp hard.

I have plenty of welding to go back to once I've done my suspension 'test'.
Fortunately, most of my sheetmetal work won't show under all the fiberglass, but I'll give your suggestion a try. I don't want warping either way...

]

I agree! Peace. Happy New Year!

Happy 2019!
Starting out the New Year with some good news.
The alignment looks good. I used the String Alignment theory to create my own version of a laser alignment using floor tile lasers. I stopped short of completing a perfect alignment but it’s there.
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I also did the ride height and corner balance. Height looks good while maintaining a good balance.
I’m at 50.6% LRxRF 49.4% RRxLF and 42% front 58% rear 50.1% RS and 49.9% LS and just over 2500# total weight with my weight in the drivers seat. That may change slightly once I get everything back in the car but it’s close enough that I can work with it.
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My next step was to take the suspension back off and complete welding. So that’s where I am now.
I’ll have a list of items to do so I need to get it going so I can be ready for the first SSCC event in March.
I had to get the jig out of my way so I put some paint on it and taped it up as best I could and rolled it up the hill and out of the shop. If someone is in need of something like this, hit me up. I could be persuaded to part with it for my costs. If not, it will become my new work bench.

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Any picts of the corner weight rig?
Did you try moving those scales around and get an average? You could be closer than you think.

You can see the scales and the metal arms. Its a multiplying rig with standard bathroom scales.


Measurements look great and so does the car!!

Good work

They're called Ruggles scales. They used to sell them on ebay.
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Given that I don't have the weight where it's supposed to be, I'm not ready to be that precise. But it's a cheap set of scales, so it makes sense to move them to make sure I don't have one or 2 out of wack. It told me what I needed to know, that the car CAN be corner balanced and aligned. When I do the end corner balance, I'll do your suggestion and move them around to see how the weight changes.

The scales are 4 to 1. The numbers in orange are the actual scale weights. The numbers in blue are x4. So if I'm off 1# the spreadsheet moves 4# of weight around. Not ideal, but better than nuttin...
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Last time the car was corner balanced in May 2011 this is what we had

Porsche Weight

Weighed on Longacre Corner Weight Scales at NE Motorsports on 5/10/11.
With ¼ tank of fuel, Floor mat carpets out.


No Top

Total Weight: 2557 lbs.

LF 522 RF 573
LR 760 RR 702


Top in Trunk

Total Weight: 2581 lbs.

LF 520 RF 570
LR 774 RR 717



Top in Trunk /Me In Car (231 lbs.)

Total Weight: 2812 lbs.

LF 600 RF 601
LR 861 RR 750

That's funny, I have that document sitting on my desk along with a bunch of others I'll be scanning into the computer for future reference. BTW, You did provide over the top documentation.

I was doing a WAG on the weights. I thru 4 batteries in the front trunk, 210# in the passenger seat. No top, No mufflers, No gas tank or gas, no coolant, etc etc..

I'll put it together and get some real readings. If my weights are way off of those previous readings, I'll get a second opinion.. Right now, it's just me..

If I get bored, I'll do a scale comparison, that would make me feel better...

meanwhile, back to burning wire...

Here is your Rolex 24 hr update https://imsatv.imsa.com/

The Screamsicle non-entry is still in the pits. Some delay due to family events but progress to resume shortly.

Prior to the shutdown I was able to pull the oil pan and happy to report that nothing out of the ordinary was found. In fact it looks like the engine was just rebuilt, (which I guess is actually true even though it's been 10+ years). So back together it goes, I'll run it as is and if it blows, it blows.

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On the welding front, I'm making progress, I still have to cram my big body under the dash and do some overhead spots, but the easy stuff is done. . I hope to be done with the welding by next weekend. (goals are good). Then I'll tackle some priming and maybe even some final coat for the parts unseen.

Welding update…. It’s DONE! (well mostly, I’m sure I’ll find more to do if I look hard enough)
I spent some time cleaning up the areas that won’t be accessible after I get it assembled. So I put some primer and paint in the areas around the firewall and gas tank as well as under where the suspension will be mounted. Since the underside was previously painted black, I finished it off with a black matte.
My next step was to attach the front suspension.
Easier said than done.
First I needed to mount the clutch master cyl. But, I wanted to mount it in the proper position not upside down as it was.. I found out quickly that they did it for a reason, because the master and the steering rack wants to occupy the same space. I’m sure a couple of you already told me that, but I had to try. So that means I had to bleed the clutch master right side up before mounting it upside down. That also means I had to connect the clutch slave, and the clutch slave bracket, but that means I had to reassemble the oil pickup tube and oil pan. Having done all that I realized that the clutch throwout lever wasn’t engaging properly so I had to pull the trans back and reengage it correctly. I had previously pulled the transaxle out but not put it back in correctly. (There are no books on this)
Ok, where was I (are you still following this?) Can you see why this is taking so long?
Now the transaxle is back in, correctly engaging the throwout bearing. The gearshift cables are re-connected. The slave cylinder is connected, and guess what. It didn’t need bleeding. It works great.
So now I need to flip the slave cyl over to gain room for the steering rack and then…
mount the wildwood brackets and pedals,
mount the front suspension,
run the fuel line, fuel pump, filters, fuel tank, etc
cut out the opening for the radiator, fab up radiator mounting brackets, etc. run the hoses.
Reassemble the heater, vent hoses, and water lines to the heater core.
Cut out turn signal light openings in the fiberglass fenders. Then mount those lights.
I also have to do the one part that is still 914. That is assemble the headlight buckets.
Now comes the fun part. Wiring it all back up. I labeled it all and marked it down on paper and lots of photos. But it will still be ‘fun’.
I left out an important part. That is mounting the fiberglass fender and front bumper assembly. So I’ll probably insert that in to the mix where appropriate. Oh and the windshield install. And the door. And a tune-up. And the seat mod, and roll bar mods. And some day I’ll get to paint…
So, there are a few bits to accomplish in the next month before the first autocross.

Month???

That would be 3 years for me...

Great work so far!!! I've seen the pictures you guys haven't and it looks fantastic

Congrats on another stage conquered.
What is the heater setup like?
That is one part I have not settled on yet.

Go Dan GO!
And pics... we need the pics!

Basically the heater is a standard water heater core fed by 2 heater hoses coming from the v8. They feed down the driver’s side long and up into the front above the driver’s feet. They feed the custom box shown, (maybe a hot rod product?). That feeds what I believe are standard 914 air distribution valves. Here are a couple pictures before I molested it...

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I need to take a few more pictures. And edit them so they fit on the website.
But here are some teasers.

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Good work Dan!

Been there done that regarding clutch lever! LOL That's why we put those really nice studs on the engine so it is easier to properly install the transaxle and specifically the fork.

Re the master cylinder ...we re-enforced and fabbed up that floor mounting area with the wrong stroke master (Couldn't get enough throw with 1 1/8" so went to 1.4") and when we purchased the 1.4" master we realized the mounting bolts were opposite! I will never know WHY Wilwood in their infinite wisdom did that! After contemplating changes and a few beers later we decided the easiest solution was to mount it upside down after bleeding! (Reservoir/Low pressure side comes in from bottom instead of top). It works fine as long as no air gets in system. Make sure system adjusted correctly as you will have just enough throw to properly engage or disengage the clutch. Ask me how I know this... LOL

Best,
Paul

Those studs are the best! That was the easiest part of the work. Allowed me to move the trans in bit by bit until it bit the throwout bearing.

I'm not too worried about the clutch master. But thanks for the encouragement.

I am thinking about doing dual brake masters, I really like the idea of dual fluid containment systems. I'll put it together with the single for now, but was wondering if you had considered this?

Probably a good idea re dual brake. My list of repairs/customizations/modifications was very long as you can see by all of the documentation that I provided. Never made it that far down the list as it was in the optional category.

One thing comes to mind as you are assembling the wiring in front of car. We paid less attention to most of the wiring in that area so double check and make sure grommets are used on all wiring thru firewalls while it is apart. We did some, it was on my list to look at but never got to it.

Lastly did you ever determine source of the ticking sound in top of the motor. Sounds like a stuck lifter to me? This only appeared after the car sat for some time. Might be worth exploring?

I'll be updating the wiring as I go. I should do the whole thing. But, the wires seem to be fine, I'll add some wire looms and I think it will be ok. Yes and grommets.

I haven't pulled the valve covers, but I didn't hear any excessive noise using a stethoscope. They were all consistently the same. My noise test involved many things, but the one that gave me the biggest clue is insulating the headers using sound deadening material. I have a video showing a dramatic difference in sound isolating the bottom end, with and without the material. I did pull the oil pan but found nothing other than the oil pickup tube o-ring was black instead of orange. That could be the difference in manufacturers, but the new one seems fatter. There was no foaming indication that that was the problem, but we'll see. I put it back together and I'll let it warm up and see what noise I get.

Thanks for the pictures. So the hot water comes from the rear? I wonder if there’s any way to come from the front by the radiator?

Just brainstorming here...

I wonder if there would be a way to take the hot side hose and run it thru the heater core. You would either need to split it so that it could flow more and either put a flapper valve to allow excess pressure to go directly to the radiator. But at the same time you would probably need to be able to shut off flow thru the heater core when it gets too warm in the cab.

Another thought.. pull heat directly from the radiator. Hmm. like above you would need to come up with a way to completly shut off hot air going into the passenger compartment, but I think this would be an easier solution to implement.

Generally cars get heat to the heater core before the radiator so it heats up the passengers first. Also with the thermostat opening at 160-200+ degrees that could take significant time before air starts blowing hot. Thus these systems take hot air directly from the engine and feed it back into the system between the thermostat and the block.

There are 914 guys who have taken the easy route of pulling the heat closer to the radiator and I remember hearing that complaint.

Thanks for the information. I have never worked with water before
So run from the back it is. Unless, running an electric water pump changes things as I believe the heater core was fed off a section of the water pump. I'm confused LOL

Hi Dan,

I want to point out one more time that Bill, that built you car offered me the pre-drilled, bent metal plate for the duel brake masters and the clutch. You can see it in my photo.

I got the shorter Willwood masters and it clears the Carrera rack. It tight but it clears the rubber bellows and all. You have a drive by wire throttle that makes it very nice. Maybe Bill bent the metal just in case he wanted to go with 3 masters.

Bob B
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I already moved the clutch master over about 1.5" or so. I think there's room for 2 masters, it looks similar to your photo in size. I also have the shorter Wilwood Masters and should clear, just the clutch master points up and encroaches on the steering rack area if it's not upside down.

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Dan, I took this out of my 914, gave it to a buddy, he went fancy pedals, still has this whole set up....its in sandeigo if your interested...
@effutuo101 has them..

I just checked the price on a dual master pedal from Wilwood.
I would be interested. A couple rebuild kits would be way less option.

I know the clutch master was bad , brakes where good x2

get ahold of Chris...its cheep..I think... @effutuo101

single master like you have is just plain dangerous...

Here is what I have. The MC’s couldn’t be rebuilt (parts NLA and new ones in your choice of size are about $50.

Dan, just want you to be safe... good news you have an E brake.

or this option;
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=312451

Thanks! You're preaching to the choir brother!

When I saw that I started thinking the original system was a single. But further investigation revealed otherwise.

effutuo101 is going to send me his pedal cluster, (your old pedals). I should be able to make that work. If not I'm definitely going to look into the second link you posted. Things are tight and if that fits then I'll give that a try. 3rd option is to play the safety card with my wife and get the house budget to fund a full on brake cluster. The bottom line is, I'm not going 150mph down the front straight with a single point of failure and I think she'll agree with me. She wants me around for a while longer.

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I know, the option comment , set me in motion...

She wants me to do it right. (but on a budget...)

It kinda woke her up a bit when I rolled the last one...