Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: Widebody LS6 rebuild.
914World.com > The 914 Forums > 914World Garage
Pages: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
Andyrew
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Feb 10 2019, 12:35 PM) *

3rd option is to play the safety card with my wife and get the house budget to fund a full on brake cluster


Didn't you do that with the front end?

I mean I'm all down for it smile.gif

Cracker
I am ok with skimping where you can as long as it does impact safety. However, I would categorize the pedal cluster (especially on a conversion to hydraulic clutch) with enlarged brakes a no-go and increased performance. The cost both in financial and fabrication terms to install a dedicated aftermarket, high quality pedal system is not so much that it out-weighs the risk. Think this one through before you cobble masters onto a teeners pedal assembly. Please.

T
sixnotfour
QUOTE
Think this one through before you cobble masters onto a teeners pedal assembly. Please.


Tony you are correct ,,but if you look at rsr pedal assembly you will see its no mystery..the pedal assy. I have shown was done by a well known fabricator in AZ...its no cobbled together piece...but your right write a check...the skies the limit...maybe you should have chimed in earlier....just saying..race on

btw it worked great for 2 other owners,,my son is a foot taller . so I made an adjustable pedal assy...
Cracker
Dan has a project on his hands...its not too late. Correct, I have not been here for awhile and have missed the "happenings" over the last 8-12 months. Obviously, no matter who is modifying and re-defining a pedal system - it still is piece used in different manner. My suggestions is simply to use a "system" that is manufactured for a singular purpose - a race style pedal system. Other than than the steering wheel and equally important - a driver has more interface with the controls than anything else. Kind of important...eh?

T
sixnotfour
true that, but if you dont know you dont know...check pelican rsr pedals ...the assy shown are not 914
i loved the issue of vw porsche ..check book Chuck..,

the reality is dual master cylinders save lives..more than a single..since 1968..this 914 should have never passed scca insp. with a single cyl....the end
dan10101
QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Feb 10 2019, 04:04 PM) *

QUOTE
Think this one through before you cobble masters onto a teeners pedal assembly. Please.


Tony you are correct ,,but if you look at rsr pedal assembly you will see its no mystery..the pedal assy. I have shown was done by a well known fabricator in AZ...its no cobbled together piece...but your right write a check...the skies the limit...maybe you should have chimed in earlier....just saying..race on

btw it worked great for 2 other owners,,my son is a foot taller . so I made an adjustable pedal assy...


I like that pedal assembly. It places the clutch further left allowing me to spread my legs a bit. Cause, apparently you have to have big jewels to drive these cars. I hope to find out some day...
burton73
QUOTE(Cracker @ Feb 10 2019, 04:14 PM) *

Dan has a project on his hands...its not too late. Correct, I have not been here for awhile and have missed the "happenings" over the last 8-12 months. Obviously, no matter who is modifying and re-defining a pedal system - it still is piece used in different manner. My suggestions is simply to use a "system" that is manufactured for a singular purpose - a race style pedal system. Other than than the steering wheel and equally important - a driver has more interface with the controls than anything else. Kind of important...eh?

T



Dan,

Pictures of set up. Tony says get the reservoir with the AN fitting.


Bob B

Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment driving.gif
Cracker
You are correct...! I believe I was telling Chris/Tygaboy once upon a time. biggrin.gif

T

QUOTE(burton73 @ Feb 11 2019, 02:34 PM) *


Pictures of set up. Tony says get the reservoir with the AN fittings.



burton73
QUOTE(Cracker @ Feb 11 2019, 01:48 PM) *

You are correct...! I believe I was telling Chris/Tygaboy once upon a time. biggrin.gif

T

QUOTE(burton73 @ Feb 11 2019, 02:34 PM) *


Pictures of set up. Tony says get the reservoir with the AN fittings.




You were telling me. Thank for that info. AM fittings = no leak

Bob B
Cracker
Indeed. It is one of the retrofits I need to do on my car...!

T

QUOTE(burton73 @ Feb 11 2019, 07:03 PM) *

QUOTE(Cracker @ Feb 11 2019, 01:48 PM) *

You are correct...! I believe I was telling Chris/Tygaboy once upon a time. biggrin.gif

T

QUOTE(burton73 @ Feb 11 2019, 02:34 PM) *


Pictures of set up. Tony says get the reservoir with the AN fittings.




You were telling me. Thank for that info. AM fittings = no leak

Bob B

sixnotfour
No disagreement...Dan's and the previous owner was ..ya it was on my Option list....Me , I love my tilton pedal assembley... But talk of budget and down the road Is my main Concern...For Dan..therefore the before mentioned options..that are not cobbled together...his most cost effective is to buy the 22 0r 23 masters... but budget allowing the single pedal mount with dual cylinders is best... $$
Zippy69
Dan,

The main reason I switched out the cobbeled together/modified 914 pedal assembly that was in the car in the first place for a Wilwood 2 pedal assembly was because it wasn't allowing enough throw for the clutch. Hydraulic ratios were wrong in master and slave. 930 release arm parts were worn out. Clutch disc was wrong. Slave cylinder mounting was wrong allowing side loading... All of this and more resulted in pedal effort being maxed out so the builders answer was to weld on a huge brake pedal to the clutch pedal arm and triangulate the clutch pedal assembly in efforts to take the load. This just served to crack the floor allowing for more slop into the system. The builder car went thru many clutches as a result of the clutch not entirely disengaging. I went thru a few iterations myself prior to totally re-engineering the entire clutch system. Just be careful whatever pedal system that you decide on that the clutch will have enough throw and is adjusted properly. Any slop in the clutch will not allow it to do it's job.

BTW As mentioned in my previous post...I am in agreement for safety dual masters on brake system is a very good idea. The reason it was on my "optional" list (probably a bad choice of words) is because we were concentrating on rebuilding many other systems in the car to get it running properly and I just never got to it. Safety is why we chose Wilwood pedal and compact master assembly, routed hydraulic brake lines inside the car in the tunnel instead of under the floor like it was originally routed by the builder. Additionally we re redid all brake fittings/lines and capped this with a carbon skid plate that did it's job protecting the brake system in the accident.

Cheers,
Paul
Cracker
I should've used a different word...I didn't mean to insult. I like your alternate description Paul - modified. beerchug.gif

T
dan10101
QUOTE(Zippy69 @ Feb 11 2019, 06:30 PM) *

Dan,

The main reason I switched out the cobbeled together/modified 914 pedal assembly that was in the car in the first place for a Wilwood 2 pedal assembly was because it wasn't allowing enough throw for the clutch. Hydraulic ratios were wrong in master and slave. 930 release arm parts were worn out. Clutch disc was wrong. Slave cylinder mounting was wrong allowing side loading... All of this and more resulted in pedal effort being maxed out so the builders answer was to weld on a huge brake pedal to the clutch pedal arm and triangulate the clutch pedal assembly in efforts to take the load. This just served to crack the floor allowing for more slop into the system. The builder car went thru many clutches as a result of the clutch not entirely disengaging. I went thru a few iterations myself prior to totally re-engineering the entire clutch system. Just be careful whatever pedal system that you decide on that the clutch will have enough throw and is adjusted properly. Any slop in the clutch will not allow it to do it's job.

BTW As mentioned in my previous post...I am in agreement for safety dual masters on brake system is a very good idea. The reason it was on my "optional" list (probably a bad choice of words) is because we were concentrating on rebuilding many other systems in the car to get it running properly and I just never got to it. Safety is why we chose Wilwood pedal and compact master assembly, routed hydraulic brake lines inside the car in the tunnel instead of under the floor like it was originally routed by the builder. Additionally we re redid all brake fittings/lines and capped this with a carbon skid plate that did it's job protecting the brake system in the accident.

Cheers,
Paul


Thanks Paul.
I will pay close attention the the clutch in whatever solution I end up with.
A safe brake system is a must.
Zippy69
QUOTE(Cracker @ Feb 11 2019, 06:55 PM) *

I should've used a different word...I didn't mean to insult. I like your alternate description Paul - modified. beerchug.gif

T


No Offense taken.

I prefer to call this pedal assembly cobbled together lol
dan10101
I promised more pictures.

So here is the inner fenders. One has a seam down the front side of the sway bar bushing. The other has some connecting welds, but is basically one solid piece. I choose to not grind them down perfectly as it would weaken the already thin sheetmetal. I made several decisions for strength rather than concours perfection. (plus I'm lazy)...
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Prior to assembly I decided to paint the frunk prior to assembly like normal people. For some sily reason I thought I was going to paint the whole front end altogether. But, that would require fully disassembling the many bits in the frunk. (again, I'm lazy.)
Click to view attachment

See the next post for more pictures..
djway
Spray with heavy coats of truck bedliner. This will protect the wheel well from chipping, will quiet the car, and it will help hide the seams.
dan10101
Part 2

I began reassembly!!!

The front section is almost ready. (these pictures are a few hours behind)

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

I finished up the rear end, starter, wiring, drive shafts, parking brake cable(that was fun). Rear calipers. I didn't install the mufflers, I have to decide if runing it without the mufflers is more important than being able to hear to motor should something go wrong. I still need to tune it up, but that is actually minor stuff.
Click to view attachment

I also removed the back half of the vinyl graphics. I'll likely remove the right side as well and just leave the stripes for now. I started using an eraser wheel on a drill, but took a suggestion from a friend and used a heat gun. It worked well, but it's very fine line between too hot and not hot enough.
Click to view attachment

I picked up the repaired radiator today, (it was bent up a bit)
So I'll drill some mounting holes and work on placement along with the GT40 air exit ramp.

dan10101
QUOTE(djway @ Feb 15 2019, 09:13 PM) *

Spray with heavy coats of truck bedliner. This will protect the wheel well from chipping, will quiet the car, and it will help hide the seams.


I'm pretty sure that's what was on there before. I was actually thinking of doing the undercarriage in white, But Papa Smurf's thread made much more sense to do it in black to hide the true purpose.
djway
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Feb 15 2019, 09:32 PM) *

QUOTE(djway @ Feb 15 2019, 09:13 PM) *

Spray with heavy coats of truck bedliner. This will protect the wheel well from chipping, will quiet the car, and it will help hide the seams.


I'm pretty sure that's what was on there before. I was actually thinking of doing the undercarriage in white, But Papa Smurf's thread made much more sense to do it in black to hide the true purpose.

You can get Upol Raptor in white which what I used
Andyrew
Love the progress!! wub.gif
My 914
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Feb 16 2019, 01:32 AM) *

QUOTE(djway @ Feb 15 2019, 09:13 PM) *

Spray with heavy coats of truck bedliner. This will protect the wheel well from chipping, will quiet the car, and it will help hide the seams.


I'm pretty sure that's what was on there before. I was actually thinking of doing the undercarriage in white, But Papa Smurf's thread made much more sense to do it in black to hide the true purpose.



I think black will look good under a white car.
dan10101
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Feb 16 2019, 02:03 PM) *

Love the progress!! wub.gif


Me too! piratenanner.gif driving.gif aktion035.gif

I installed the radiator and fans today. I also test fit the GT scoop. I'll need to fab up some trim pieces to funnel the air thru the radiator. Also I need to test fit the hood to make sure it clears. The gas tank is in I'll need to make sure the hoses are playing nice under it all.

Progress is good...

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
sixnotfour
beerchug.gif flag.gif
burton73
Great progress with your car. May she run straight and true for you. Nice work!!

Bob B
JRust
Wow Dan that radiator has a nice profile. Has to be pretty short to fit between the buckets upright like that? What are its dimensions? That would save me a good 6-8" of space. I'd actually have a front trunk I could use a bit that way idea.gif . I picked up another radiator I will play with some. Still waiting to get my car back so can't do much with it now. Just sitting on the shelf in a box
mepstein
Nice work. Looks good.

Yea, If you don't mind posting the radiator info, it would be appreciated. Thanks
dan10101
Radiator is custom from Howe Racing Enterprises. So you can see why I chose to repair rather than replace. Plus it reportedly does a great job.

It's 12.25 tall. 30" wide. The core is 2.5" wide and the tanks are a bit over 3" . It is a dual pass radiator with the start and finish on the pass side. It could possibly be up to 2" wider but not necessary.

I need to fab up some air block off plates to keep the air going only thru the radiator. The GT40 scoop seems to fit well and still give lots of room for the battery and other accessories.
Cracker
Looking good Dan!

Regarding "cooling" and line sizing...since the radiator is on-topic. I run 1" OD supply/return; run wide open for extended time and run sufficiently adequate temps. Just a little info for others doing conversions...

T
dan10101
QUOTE(Cracker @ Feb 19 2019, 08:34 AM) *

Looking good Dan!

Regarding "cooling" and line sizing...since the radiator is on-topic. I run 1" OD supply/return; run wide open for extended time and run sufficiently adequate temps. Just a little info for others doing conversions...

T


Thanks Tony. That's what this is all about.

Hey, do you have pictures of your seat mod for more headroom?

I think I have enough by mounting the seat directly to the floor, but I like to explore options.
Cracker
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Feb 19 2019, 01:00 PM) *


Hey, do you have pictures of your seat mod for more headroom?

I think I have enough by mounting the seat directly to the floor, but I like to explore options.


Dan,

All we did was notch the floor-pan on three sides leaving the front intact. It was slightly larger than the width of the seat. I then sat in the seat with helmet and targa top on and bent the floor pan down until I achieved the ideal height. A panel (wedge-like) was then welded in to take up the gap between the floorpan section. Make sense?

I then mounted to seat in three places (none to the floor); on the console and rocker on the front of the seat and to the roll-bar on the rear. Rough as it is...you can see the notch and outer seat mount in the picture below. It doesn't take much to lower the seat significantly...at 6'5" the 1" drop at the deepest point made a huge difference! Its hard to see in the second picture but I have about 2"-3" between my helmet and the roof - a gob of room for someone of my height in a teener! Mepstein can barely see over the dash...as I recall! LOL.

Feel free to message me if there is anything I can help with...

T

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
dan10101
QUOTE(Cracker @ Feb 19 2019, 04:58 PM) *

QUOTE(dan10101 @ Feb 19 2019, 01:00 PM) *


Hey, do you have pictures of your seat mod for more headroom?

I think I have enough by mounting the seat directly to the floor, but I like to explore options.


Dan,

All we did was notch the floor-pan on three sides leaving the front intact. It was slightly larger than the width of the seat. I then sat in the seat with helmet and targa top on and bent the floor pan down until I achieved the ideal height. A panel (wedge-like) was then welded in to take up the gap between the floorpan section. Make sense?

I then mounted to seat in three places (none to the floor); on the console and rocker on the front of the seat and to the roll-bar on the rear. Rough as it is...you can see the notch and outer seat mount in the picture below. It doesn't take much to lower the seat significantly...at 6'5" the 1" drop at the deepest point made a huge difference! Its hard to see in the second picture but I have about 2"-3" between my helmet and the roof - a gob of room for someone of my height in a teener! Mepstein can barely see over the dash...as I recall! LOL.

Feel free to message me if there is anything I can help with...

T



Thanks for the reply.

Did you mount on factory sliders or directly to the floor?
I was thinking the same thoughts.
I actually finished my direct to floor mounts today. That puts me plenty low, but no sliders. I may go with this for now and then decide if I'm going to raise the main roll bar. That's another can of worms I'm not ready to tackle right now.

Click to view attachment
Cracker
[quote name='dan10101' date='Feb 19 2019, 08:41 PM' post='2690622']
[/quote]

Did you mount on factory sliders or directly to the floor?

[/quote]

Umm, people may "sit" in my car but nobody else drives it - the seat is fixed.

T
mepstein
[quote name='Cracker' date='Feb 19 2019, 08:53 PM' post='2690625']
[quote name='dan10101' date='Feb 19 2019, 08:41 PM' post='2690622']
[/quote]

Did you mount on factory sliders or directly to the floor?

[/quote]

Umm, people may "sit" in my car but nobody else drives it - the seat is fixed.

T
[/quote]
I sat in it but felt like a little kid trying to see over the dash.
dan10101
QUOTE(mepstein @ Feb 19 2019, 06:36 PM) *


I sat in it but felt like a little kid trying to see over the dash.


I think I'm at that point, So it must be low enough. smash.gif
Andyrew
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Feb 19 2019, 06:48 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Feb 19 2019, 06:36 PM) *


I sat in it but felt like a little kid trying to see over the dash.


I think I'm at that point, So it must be low enough. smash.gif



I'll carry a small pillow with me smile.gif
dan10101
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Feb 19 2019, 08:35 PM) *



I'll carry a small pillow with me smile.gif


Well, that's without the seat pad. But. you might still want the pillow.

Besides Andrew, the only other person I would let drive my car would be my wife, but then I would be putting about a 1/4 throttle stop on the car and a boatload of pillows.
Zippy69
Dan,

I spray glued a 1/4" foam pad under seat cushion that you may want to remove if you didn't notice it.

Paul
Zippy69
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Feb 18 2019, 04:33 PM) *

Radiator is custom from Howe Racing Enterprises. So you can see why I chose to repair rather than replace. Plus it reportedly does a great job.

It's 12.25 tall. 30" wide. The core is 2.5" wide and the tanks are a bit over 3" . It is a dual pass radiator with the start and finish on the pass side. It could possibly be up to 2" wider but not necessary.

I need to fab up some air block off plates to keep the air going only thru the radiator. The GT40 scoop seems to fit well and still give lots of room for the battery and other accessories.


Here are a few thing that come to mind...

This Howe dual pass radiator works great! Engine never runs hot even on the hottest of days. Of course I had block off plates around the radiator, the front bumper was cut out to allow for more airflow. Additionally the radiator fans are thermostatically controlled. There is also a fan override switch to keep them on constantly in front of the center console. I used this when racing. Probably not necessary but they are there as an extra precaution.

Heat in the car is another story as it is a very hot place to sit. The hot air from the fans on the radiator rotors over the windshield into the cabin with the targa top off. Heat comes up into the cabin from hot radiator hoses in the rockers. Heat comes directly from engine thru firewall even with the heat shielding that I installed. I laughed any time someone asked me if the heat in the car works! Oh yeah it works. I put some hose vents outside by rear view mirrors in an attempt to get some air to driver and passenger. They did ok at speed but needed a better mounting solution. AC would be great but would require a lot of work. Perhaps a better blower fan and cool air inlets could be fabricated to help? Of course if the primary use of this car is as a race car then comfort in the cabin is less of a concern.

As far as the GT40 scoop is concerned... It fits well and has plenty of room underneath in fact the previous owner had a donut spare ratchet tied under it over the battery on an angle with the top of the tire resting on the rectangle foam pad on the firewall in front of the gas tank. The only thing that I was going to change on the scoop is the three mounting screws and brackets. I feel that could be attached cleaner with dzus fasteners? Another thing that was on my optional list that never got done.

Hope these observations help.

Paul
dan10101
QUOTE(Zippy69 @ Feb 20 2019, 08:38 AM) *

QUOTE(dan10101 @ Feb 18 2019, 04:33 PM) *

Radiator is custom from Howe Racing Enterprises. So you can see why I chose to repair rather than replace. Plus it reportedly does a great job.

It's 12.25 tall. 30" wide. The core is 2.5" wide and the tanks are a bit over 3" . It is a dual pass radiator with the start and finish on the pass side. It could possibly be up to 2" wider but not necessary.

I need to fab up some air block off plates to keep the air going only thru the radiator. The GT40 scoop seems to fit well and still give lots of room for the battery and other accessories.


Here are a few thing that come to mind...

This Howe dual pass radiator works great! Engine never runs hot even on the hottest of days. Of course I had block off plates around the radiator, the front bumper was cut out to allow for more airflow. Additionally the radiator fans are thermostatically controlled. There is also a fan override switch to keep them on constantly in front of the center console. I used this when racing. Probably not necessary but they are there as an extra precaution.

Heat in the car is another story as it is a very hot place to sit. The hot air from the fans on the radiator rotors over the windshield into the cabin with the targa top off. Heat comes up into the cabin from hot radiator hoses in the rockers. Heat comes directly from engine thru firewall even with the heat shielding that I installed. I laughed any time someone asked me if the heat in the car works! Oh yeah it works. I put some hose vents outside by rear view mirrors in an attempt to get some air to driver and passenger. They did ok at speed but needed a better mounting solution. AC would be great but would require a lot of work. Perhaps a better blower fan and cool air inlets could be fabricated to help? Of course if the primary use of this car is as a race car then comfort in the cabin is less of a concern.

As far as the GT40 scoop is concerned... It fits well and has plenty of room underneath in fact the previous owner had a donut spare ratchet tied under it over the battery on an angle with the top of the tire resting on the rectangle foam pad on the firewall in front of the gas tank. The only thing that I was going to change on the scoop is the three mounting screws and brackets. I feel that could be attached cleaner with dzus fasteners? Another thing that was on my optional list that never got done.

Hope these observations help.

Paul


This is good info. Thanks.
I was wondering what that green button was for. It was on my "ask Paul list".

I was also wondering what the black momentary button on the right side of the steering wheel was for. Well actually it's been so long that I've owned 914 I don't know what the orange buttons are for. I'm guessing the left side is for fog lights. but I don't know what the one next to the lighter plug does.

I'll have to pay attention to air flow and sealing it best as I can.

Click to view attachment
Zippy69
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Feb 20 2019, 09:10 AM) *

QUOTE(Zippy69 @ Feb 20 2019, 08:38 AM) *

QUOTE(dan10101 @ Feb 18 2019, 04:33 PM) *

Radiator is custom from Howe Racing Enterprises. So you can see why I chose to repair rather than replace. Plus it reportedly does a great job.

It's 12.25 tall. 30" wide. The core is 2.5" wide and the tanks are a bit over 3" . It is a dual pass radiator with the start and finish on the pass side. It could possibly be up to 2" wider but not necessary.

I need to fab up some air block off plates to keep the air going only thru the radiator. The GT40 scoop seems to fit well and still give lots of room for the battery and other accessories.


Here are a few thing that come to mind...

This Howe dual pass radiator works great! Engine never runs hot even on the hottest of days. Of course I had block off plates around the radiator, the front bumper was cut out to allow for more airflow. Additionally the radiator fans are thermostatically controlled. There is also a fan override switch to keep them on constantly in front of the center console. I used this when racing. Probably not necessary but they are there as an extra precaution.

Heat in the car is another story as it is a very hot place to sit. The hot air from the fans on the radiator rotors over the windshield into the cabin with the targa top off. Heat comes up into the cabin from hot radiator hoses in the rockers. Heat comes directly from engine thru firewall even with the heat shielding that I installed. I laughed any time someone asked me if the heat in the car works! Oh yeah it works. I put some hose vents outside by rear view mirrors in an attempt to get some air to driver and passenger. They did ok at speed but needed a better mounting solution. AC would be great but would require a lot of work. Perhaps a better blower fan and cool air inlets could be fabricated to help? Of course if the primary use of this car is as a race car then comfort in the cabin is less of a concern.

As far as the GT40 scoop is concerned... It fits well and has plenty of room underneath in fact the previous owner had a donut spare ratchet tied under it over the battery on an angle with the top of the tire resting on the rectangle foam pad on the firewall in front of the gas tank. The only thing that I was going to change on the scoop is the three mounting screws and brackets. I feel that could be attached cleaner with dzus fasteners? Another thing that was on my optional list that never got done.

Hope these observations help.

Paul


This is good info. Thanks.
I was wondering what that green button was for. It was on my "ask Paul list".

I was also wondering what the black momentary button on the right side of the steering wheel was for. Well actually it's been so long that I've owned 914 I don't know what the orange buttons are for. I'm guessing the left side is for fog lights. but I don't know what the one next to the lighter plug does.

I'll have to pay attention to air flow and sealing it best as I can.

Click to view attachment



No Green push button is horn. (Weird spot I know)
Fan over ride is a pull switch in front of center console.
Yellow button in pic is Fog lights.
Black Button to left of Lighter I believe is Instrument lights?
Zippy69
See air scoop in middle of hood tunnel. My plan one day was to modify the hood tunnel and add a scoop for fresh cabin air just like the Ford GT see pic
dan10101
i pulled the center console to give me some room to work on the drivers seat.
I made seat brackets and mounted the driver seat to the floor. I did remove that extra pad. Doing this will allow me to run with the stock seat pad and still not make contact with the roll bar under normal driving. For helmeted driving I'll remove the stock pad.

I also positioned the stock looking custom pedal cluster that I received from Chris W.
It does several things for me.

It moves the clutch and brake pedals closer to their original positions give or take an inch which moves me a step closer to having the steering wheel and pedals in front of the drivers seat and not off to the right.

It allows me to use dual brake master cylinders for redundancy.

It allows me to move the clutch master cylinder from the left side to the right side of the cluster similar to this custom unit. http://www.901shop.com/main/CustomProducts...65/Default.aspx

The biggest part of moving the clutch master is that at full droop the tie rod end contacts the clutch master when I tried to move it over further left in an earlier post.

The 2nd part of aligning the driving position is turning the seat slightly to face the steering wheel. It's still not perfect but it feels a lot better. The 3rd part will be to adjusting the mounting of the steering wheel to move it over a bit. I'll drive it first and see how it feels.

Does anyone else have this problem?
Click to view attachment
ConeDodger
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Feb 20 2019, 02:10 AM) *

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Feb 19 2019, 08:35 PM) *



I'll carry a small pillow with me smile.gif


Well, that's without the seat pad. But. you might still want the pillow.

Besides Andrew, the only other person I would let drive my car would be my wife, but then I would be putting about a 1/4 throttle stop on the car and a boatload of pillows.


It wouldn’t be the first 914 “possessed by the devil” that Andrew has driven! evilgrin.gif happy11.gif
effutuo101
I actually needed up angling both seats slightly towards the tunnel. My steering rack is a custome one off from Jeff H.
dan10101
QUOTE(effutuo101 @ Feb 20 2019, 11:05 PM) *

I actually needed up angling both seats slightly towards the tunnel. My steering rack is a custome one off from Jeff H.


I would be interested in hearing more about the steering rack. I know Andrew would be too.

I don't think my angle is as far off as it looks in that picture, But if it is, I need to twist my seat more, or do something with the steering.

Cracker
Yep, same here Dan...I came to the conclusion that how VW designed the interior - that was the best they could do. I'd rather have my seating position square with road than square with the steering wheel. I haven't crashed...yet.

T
dan10101
QUOTE(Cracker @ Feb 21 2019, 05:16 AM) *

Yep, same here Dan...I came to the conclusion that how VW designed the interior - that was the best they could do. I'd rather have my seating position square with road than square with the steering wheel. I haven't crashed...yet.

T


I'm guessing when you don't have fitted seats, it's not as evident.

It's certainly crossed my mind too when I'm adjusting the seat. i didn't move it much, I can always change it later.
sixnotfour
fixed seat, with lots of mini move options, no rear pivot mount.. kids these days
dan10101
QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Feb 21 2019, 08:25 AM) *

fixed seat, with lots of mini move options, no rear pivot mount.. kids these days


That looks like it would be relatively easy to get in and out.
So it eliminates the rear pivot mount and bolts further back directly to the floorboard?
Makes it easier to start the bolts. Front mount too. I may be remaking my seat mounts...
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2024 Invision Power Services, Inc.