Hey all, Sorry I have not responded sooner. I've been away for a few weeks in Europe celebrating my 25th anniversary and visiting with family in Sicily!

Anyway; I did have some time to review things and have found some interesting things indeed.

First, for the time being, I am going to assume my plumbing is mostly correct. So...

1. I found that my RH manual from 1992 and Ed Ducey's V8 Conversion manual both call for 1 inch diameter hose from the t-stat to the rad inlet and 1.25 inch from the rad outlet to the WP. I have 1.25 inch to and fro. Would this make a difference? IDK, but it's cheap enough for me to try it and see what happens.

2. From the same informational sources; I found that the 350 CID engine requires 525 Sq inches of rad surface (350 * 1.5). Also noted, they both recommend a minimum of a 2 row, double pass rad of the correct sq. inches. The rad in my car by comparison is a cross flow (single pass), 2 row, 426 sq in. rad. My rad (15.5 x 27.5) is around 20% smaller than what the sources recommend!

3. The sources mention that the valance/bumper opening for air to the rad should be a minimum of 1 sq. foot (144 sq inch). The opening of my Chalon front bumper is 21 x 5 inches or 105 sq inches. That is around 27 % smaller than what is recommended! Don't really know what to do with that other than to hack the opening bigger and deal with body work and paint! Would such a smaller opening make a difference?

4. Therefore, besides replacing my 1.25 inch hose from t-stat to rad with 1 inch (doing so will allow less volume and greater pressure for that side... may that make a difference?), I am looking at a rad that is a 2 row, double pass unit that measures 28 x 19, which yields 532 sq. inches. There also a 31 x 19 rad (2 row/double pass) that yields 589 sq. inches. Either should fit, angled as mine is now although the 31 inch would be a tighter fit between the headlight buckets.

A question though... which will have better cooling, having more than a two rows (like a 3 or 4 row) single pass rad or a 2 row, double pass unit? It might be possible to get a 3 row, double pass rad but I think those are really pricey. The sources both say the 2 row double pass rad of the correct area for a 350 is sufficient but old school in me says 3-4 row single pass could be better.

Any suggestions?

Tony,

I just took a bunch of pictures of my V8 Radiator that is for my 350. For some reason, my phone is not working to send pictures to my computer right now. So I am pissed off because of that.

I want to point out that I have a Ron Davis set up that I think is the same thing that Renegade sells. Stamped into it RON DAVES 623-877-500

Size is 14 in tall 30 inches wide and 3 in thick. One opening on the radiator is 1 .25 inch and the other is 1 inch.

Many years ago Rod Simson told me that the reason for the difference in size is hotter water flows easier than the cooler water coming out of the bottom of the radiator.

Not sure if that is true but he used or uses these differences in diameter from the rad all the way back to the Eng.


This is the best that I have for you right now intel I can get these pictures to you. 2 big fans on this boy.

Bob B

My first V8 car back in 1979 had a 916 front and I used an Aluminum Corvette radiator and custom shroud that I made. The Corvette Rad. Back then sat at an angle and for sure was not 3 inches thick.

Bob B

Have you ruled out that the problem is not with the engine itself?

Blown or compromised head gasket? Incorrect timing or too lean?

I noticed on a picture you posted of your setup that there was no metal shroud on the top of the radiator that would seal up against the front sheet metal of the trunk.

Re-Booted my phone and they all came to me.

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OK there you go

That is awesome, thank you so much! I actually spoke to Ron this morning. Great guy and conversation! Unfortunately his 14 x 30 double pas 2 row rad was 910 dollars! Not in my budget!

I took all the info I gathered and decided to go with an AFCO unit , 80130NDP double pass, 2 row with extra capacity, 28 x 19 for $260. It should do the job!

I got my radiator kit from renegade as well. The first one ended up blowing inner tubes at both ends.there new radiators are made from a company called CBR .they are located in lake Elsinore,Ca .call Clint and he will make you one with the correct specs! I think I paid $375. My problem was my overflow tank. I plumbed it with the overflow hose "spitting" to the ground, once I re-routed it to closed system by installing overflow hose to bottom of overflow tank (not sucking air ) I've never had a heating problem since ! Click to view attachment

Thanks! I believe I have my hoses plumbed correctly but I will certainly double check!

I'm not quite sure I understand what you said. Could you snap a picture and post?

I spent yesterday swapping radiators. Note the size difference between the out-going single pass Griffon and the new 2 row, double pass AFCO radiator.


Where the shroud from the Ford Taurus fan fit the Griffon fairly well; it is now a bit on the small side. I will need to address that at some point. It still sucks through a lot of hot air!

Old rad: Click to view attachment

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Since the swap, I have driven it twice staying close to home just in case. It's been warm/hot on both occasions, in the 80's with direct sunshine on car and roads. I think the system is still trying to bleed its air out.

The second time I drove it with the new rad, the temp stayed steady at 180 until I came to a traffic light and there it crept up to around 190. Home was a short distance. it stayed at 190 when I pulled it into the garage (in shade). I kept it running, stepped out and placed my hand by the bumper grille opening and felt air not being drawn in but being pushed out! I thought I had the fan wired backwards so I opened the hood but the fan was working correctly, pulling in lots of hot air into the front compartment! Opening the hood also stopped any air coming out of the grille opening.

Could this be my issue? How can there be hot air being discharged from the bumper grille opening when I know the fan is drawing in air and lots of it? Should I address this before I start looking at an electric water pump?

Never mind on what I thought was air being expelled from the grille. I took some tissue paper and the fan sucked it right up to the grille! I guess it only felt like it was being expelled.

I wonder, is there such a thing as the fan being to powerful for the exhaust openings I have for the air to be expelled efficiently though the inner fender wells?

Electric WP next I guess!

Go back and look at the picture I posted showing how the Ron Davis set up has a shroud for the back of the radiator. It works as a negative pressure for the air and helps force the air through the rad. I think that you may lose some air flow with your set up.

And then I think you need a second shroud for radiator to direct the air flow. Look at the second shroud from my set up. You look like you are only getting ¾ of the surface?

Air comes in the front of car and is channeled through. Air Flow Is very important.

Not sure if you are better off with 2 smaller fans?

Bob B
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