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914 RZ-1
So I painted my car. Got some orange peel, thought I'd see if anyone had ideas for getting rid of/minimizing it.

After painting:
Click to view attachment

After sanding with 1000 grit. The lighter areas are where I sanded, the darker areas are the lower points of the orange peel:
Click to view attachment

Option 1:
I'm thinking I need to go to 800 grit, then 1000, 1500, 2000, then polish. Before I do I thought I'd see if anyone else thinks this is a good idea based on what they may have done.

Option 2:
I can re-paint it. I'm thinking I will sand with 400 grit to rough up the surface and then re-spray.

Option 3:
I can polish it more, but the orange peel is still noticeable on the smaller pieces I've tried. I used a Torq X polisher, white pad, Chemical Guys V32 polish. I thought it might get smoother as I polished it with finer and finer pads/compounds, but I don't want to burn thru the paint. I put 3 coats of paint on.
porschetub
Oh dear,let it dry and start again,your paint is too thick ...not enough reducer ,or you are possibly running low air pressure,with single pack I run 35-40 PSI,on the top clearcoat I run same pressure and a bit more thinners,from mermory I go 1:2 ratio basecoat then 1:5 ratio on clear ,then I go piss thin on the last clearcoat.
I'am a DIY car painter have done lots of cars but I forget details cause it's such a PITA to do,love painting but the prep makes me want to barf.gif barf.gif .
Front yard mechanic
Option 2 my vote
Cairo94507
That's a bit of orange peel for sure. I would tape all the edges on one panel (don't want to sand or burn through) and wet sand it some more to see if you can get 90% of that flattened out and then try polishing. Just take your time. Good luck. beerchug.gif
burton73
You are going to need to go through the grits by starting with a heavier grit. Very easy so you do not go through it. Think of it as mountains and valleys. You need to sand the mountains down to the valleys. Tape the edges as someone said so you do not go to fare on them with the color sanding.

You need to CK it all the time so you do not remove too much.

Do not sand with that much pressure. You will get it. The worst you can do is need to repaint so give it a shot. It takes an eye. When it is flat all over go to finer grit. Remember when you have it flat all you need to do is remove the last scratch and put the finer scratch in. I go in a different direction and when the scratches are going in the new direction go finer till you are sure you are at a fine scratch where you can buff from.

Bob B


Andyrew
Single stage? What paint are you using?

Go 30% more reducer than you were using. Change your air pressure at gun regulator to 30psi, Adjust your spray to 6-8" of surface.

Spray test piece with another 3 coats after 400grit wetsand and clean up with wax/grease remover.

Show us what you've got. Be careful with runs.

If you plan to wetsand always do 4+ coats. or 2+ coats after full coverage. I did 7 on mine. it took 3 to get full coverage. I wet sanded out 1-2 coats and have 5 coats on the car and can wetsand the car again 2 times to eliminate imperfections down the line.
Andyrew
What temp reducer are you using? and how hot was it in the booth at spray? Its really hot out and normal reducer is designed to be sprayed at about 70deg.
mb911


I would wet sand again.. Then see what you have left to buff. Anyone that's painted before has run into this before at least once.
jmitro
definitely need to wet sand with finer and finer grits; don't wet sand with anything finer than 1000 unless you want to just paint the panel again. or be sanding from now until 2020. Trust me, it takes a lot of sanding to get the panel flawless;

no reason to use polish until you've got to at least 1500 if not 2000 grit.

change the sandpaper frequently; it gets loaded quickly
914 RZ-1
Thanks to all. I appreciate you input.
I'm using single stage paint by R-M. Mix ratio: 4:1:1 (paint, reducer, hardener). It was in the 80's when I painted. I probably should have used reducer for higher temps. I painted the car body and used high temp reducer and it looks much better.
Gun is set at about 10-15 psi where the airline enters the gun. I can't see the readout very well anymore because the plastic cover on the gauge got fogged up when I tried to clean it with acetone.
I may have the paint amount too high as well (2.5 turns in from when the threads engage), so I'll try adjusting that.
I practiced, but it was a few months ago, so the conditions are different now. I only have 1.5 quarts of paint left. I could get more but I'm concerned about matching batches.
Olympic 914
many years ago I clipped the front end of my teener and only had about a mayonnaise jar of paint left. and the mix of the new paint was off. So we used the off-mix paint to build up and just put the old paint on for the last coat or two. perfect match that way.
914 RZ-1
Here is the result after wet-sanding with 800-1000-1500 then polishing with V32 and then V36 polish (Chemical Guys).

They are still some depressions from the orange peel that look like dots and there are some scratches. I thought I got these out; they appeared after I polished.

I'm thinking I need to paint one, maybe two, more coats so I have enough material to sand off.

Should I use a machine sander (DA), or keep doing it by hand?

Click to view attachment
mb911
QUOTE(914 RZ-1 @ Jul 13 2018, 10:32 AM) *

Here is the result after wet-sanding with 800-1000-1500 then polishing with V32 and then V36 polish (Chemical Guys).

They are still some depressions from the orange peel that look like dots and there are some scratches. I thought I got these out; they appeared after I polished.

I'm thinking I need to paint one, maybe two, more coats so I have enough material to sand off.

Should I use a machine sander (DA), or keep doing it by hand?



I would wet sand with 400, clean, prime and repaint.
mepstein
QUOTE(mb911 @ Jul 13 2018, 05:20 PM) *

QUOTE(914 RZ-1 @ Jul 13 2018, 10:32 AM) *

Here is the result after wet-sanding with 800-1000-1500 then polishing with V32 and then V36 polish (Chemical Guys).

They are still some depressions from the orange peel that look like dots and there are some scratches. I thought I got these out; they appeared after I polished.

I'm thinking I need to paint one, maybe two, more coats so I have enough material to sand off.

Should I use a machine sander (DA), or keep doing it by hand?




I would wet sand with 400, clean, prime and repaint.

agree.gif that’s what our shop would do. You don’t want to machine sand unless you really know what you are doing.
ValcoOscar
Yeah Jeff...I kinda think you need more paint also.
Using a DA for prep is fine but I wouldn't recommend for color sanding.
Good going and keep posting updates!
BTW...check your mail tomorrow, I sent you something.

Oscar

ConeDodger
Option 4: peel it and eat it. av-943.gif
Andyrew
Hand sand only. No DA sanding for color sanding.
914GT
Also, use a guide coat to show missed sanding scratches and low spots. A dry guide coat applies evenly and will show you when you have sanded it enough. There is a white guide coat available for darker paints and primers.
914 RZ-1
Here's the latest. I sanded with 400, cleaned with a red Scotch pad and something called "prep and wash" from R-M. I mixed the paint with a little extra reducer (4:1:1.5). The engine lid turned out decent:

Click to view attachment

The doors still got some orange peel. Not quite as bad as before, but still not what I was hoping for:

Click to view attachment

I turned down the amount of paint (1-2 turns) and sprayed at about 10-15psi at the gun.
It was 81 degrees and about 40-50% relative humidity. The first coat went on well, then I waited 15 minutes for the paint the flash, then did a second coat. The second coat seemed to have more orange peel.

When I paint, should I just paint a first coat then paint a second coat right away? In other words, go over the surface twice on the first coat?


Spoke
QUOTE(914 RZ-1 @ Jul 12 2018, 08:53 PM) *

It was in the 80's when I painted. I probably should have used reducer for higher temps.


I ran into the same issue with 70F reducer when it was about 90F. The paint dried so fast the orange peel never settled down to a sheen. Instead of getting the correct temp reducer I used a lot of reducer to thin out the paint. It went on better but still got some orange peel.
Andyrew
Flash time starts from when the paint first leaves the gun. If it takes 10 mins to get around the car that's 5 mins to wait for a 15 min flash time.

Typically just enough time to prep the gun for another coat and maybe step out for fresh air.

914 RZ-1
I just to-read this and noticed that some people told me to go 30psi at the gun. The engine lid turned out really well because I think I had the gun pressure turned up. I can't remember, though. headbang.gif
I have the hoods to repaint so I will try increasing the pressure for one of those and see how it turns out. Stay tuned!

In the meantime I have sanded the car body down with 400 grit and "prep and wash". I sanded the "mountains" down a bit, but not all the way. I want to leave me some paint for sanding later. I figure I'll fill in the "valleys" (and make the "mountains" taller), but that will give me some material to sand off. Thoughts on this?

I'm hoping the paint will go on smoother and I will only have to sand with 1000 grit and up.
Literati914
As far as the paint mix, only do what the tech sheets call for, for your particular paint on the air psi and mix ratios. Well meaning people will tell you what works for them but they're probably using a different brand etc, so it's not necessarily pertinent info.

I recently painted my '71 Volvo 1800E with single stage.. and started wet sanding with 1000, didn't work so I (somewhat fearfully) dropped to 800grit as my starting paper - and all turned out just fine. Just antidotal but if there's enough paint laid down, shouldn't be a problem.
Andyrew
I think I spray at 20-25psi. With the nozzle a stretched hands width (pinkie to thumb) from the surface. Fan the spray pattern for a consistent spray with 12-18" coverage. Moving at a slow walking pace, if I spray a whole side I walk leg over leg facing the panel and keep my body loose but my arm semi rigid trying to keep a horizontal line over the panel and the depth consistent.

You want to sand the body perfectly flat with 400. You dont want any valleys or else they will transfer to the final finish. The smoother it is prior to final paint the smoother your final spray is.


burton73
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jul 16 2018, 03:00 PM) *

I think I spray at 20-25psi. With the nozzle a stretched hands width (pinkie to thumb) from the surface. Fan the spray pattern for a consistent spray with 12-18" coverage. Moving at a slow walking pace, if I spray a whole side I walk leg over leg facing the panel and keep my body loose but my arm semi rigid trying to keep a horizontal line over the panel and the depth consistent.

You want to sand the body perfectly flat with 400. You dont want any valleys or else they will transfer to the final finish. The smoother it is prior to final paint the smoother your final spray is.

agree.gif

but you need to get it right at your house. Everone and each set up is different Air flow at you house may be different than my house

Bob B

You want to sand the body perfectly flat with 400. You dont want any valleys or else they will transfer to the final finish. The smoother it is prior to final paint the smoother your final spray is.

Hear this over and over

But you need to get it right at your house. Everyone and each set up is different Air flow at you house may be different than my house
914 RZ-1
Here's the latest:
Click to view attachment
Still a bit of orange peel. However I think I figured it out this time. I would test the gun with a quick burst and the gauge would read 30psi. However, when I pressed and held it the pressure would drop. I re-adjusted the air flow knob. The air flow got quieter and sounded different. I discovered this while cleaning the gun. I really thought I had this dialed in before but apparently not! headbang.gif What's interesting is the parts I sprayed quickly were turning out pretty good, like this headlight cover. It has a nice, smooth coat. That was because the pressure was higher:
Click to view attachment

The good news is the body is ready to be re-sprayed, so I can apply what I've learned. The bad news is I need to sand and re-spray the hoods and doors. At least they will have lots of paint on them! It will also give me a chance to make sure I've got it this time. I only have a little less than a quart of paint left, too.
914 RZ-1
One other thing: how long are the face mask filters supposed to last? I get about 2 sessions, and on the 2nd or 3rd one start to smell and taste paint. It never fails to happen as I'm starting to paint. Any way to tell when they are about to go bad? Maybe I should have an extra set standing by.

I'm using 3M 60923 (organic vapor/acid gas cartridge/P100) filters.
Andyrew
Primer about 20 sessions. Not much VOC in the air. Paint, I buy a new harbor freight dual cartrage mask for every full spray session. If I'm just spraying a hood I'll reuse an old one.
porschetub
Brave move going to that system for DIY newbie,currently repainting a Golf in PPG Alpine white,prep work is 95% and after that just lay it on ..if it go's wrong just block it back and go again,sand your final basecoat and lay plenty of clear over the top,even if a bit orange peel it will sand and buff out,easy system.
I always lay down a thin basecoat,and see if I have any solvent pop or unfilled stone chips ...there always is some work with spot putty.
IMO leave the clever paints to the pro's or people with garage paint sheds ,fans,spray suits,expensive resporators and folks that don't live too close lol-2.gif lol-2.gif .
DIY myself but have done many cars and boats.
914 RZ-1
So my a-hole neighbor called the HOA, the city and the AQMD. He didn't even talk to me first! Part of my "paint booth" (really just a cover to keep paint off the stuff in the garage and dust off the car) was in the driveway for about 2-3 days. It looked like crap, but I wanted to make sure I was done before I dismantled it. I received a letter from the HOA to clean it up. The neighbor also evidently complained about some plants and me working on my car in the driveway. I took care of all that (my driveway is sloped, so I don't work on them in the driveway). The city just told me to get rid of the wood and plastic structure in my driveway. The inspector said he just saw debris, but no painting. He told me I can paint in garage. He also told me the AQMD was called. We cleaned it up and all is cool. I looked up the AQMD rules and it appears HVLP spayers are exempt and I can spray up to 3 gallons a day. Take that, a-hole neighbor! I have yet to hear from the AQMD, probably because I'm exempt.
If you decide to do what I did, just be aware. Talk to your neighbors. All my other neighbors are cool with what I'm doing. I just have one, maybe 2, coats left them I'm done.
bbrock
That right there is why I live in the boonies, but even 20 acres doesn't make you immune. I have a neighbor who repairs and restores cars (was working on a Model T last time I was over there). A couple years ago, another neighbor who lives at least a mile away got a bur up his ass about all the junk cars on my neighbor's lot. He did have a lot of them, but the only way you could tell was by looking on Google Earth, or climbing to the very top of my property which looks down on his. So said neighbor starts emailing around trying to convince all everyone in the area that the junk cars will illegal and encouraging everyone to file a complaint. Then he threw in that because the guy had a restoration shop, that he must be dumping paint and other chemicals into the creek behind his shop. Ridiculous. I'm the only one with a view of his shop and never saw such a thing. Plus, the guy is a bit of an environmentalist. As for the junk cars, I looked up the rules and despite him having about 40 cars on his lot, he was in full compliance with the law (which mainly just states they can't be near a stream or visible from a public road. He was in the process of getting rid of most of them anyway. However, my single 914 that had been rotting in clear view of the road was definitely in violation! Anyway, despite protests from all of the neighbors who live nearby, enough complaints were made that the DEQ sent a guy out. He found no violations and the whole thing died down. But boy what a way to sour neighbor relations!

I'm glad you got squared away. beerchug.gif
914 RZ-1
So, I'm still getting some orange peel. I thought I could sand it out. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

QUESTION 1:
In theory, I paint the 1st coat with orange peel. Then the 2nd coat goes on. It fills the "valleys" in addition to adding to the "mountains". I should be able to sand the taller mountains down and get a smooth finish, correct?

Click to view attachment

QUESTION 2:
This is probably related to question 1. I'm getting small pinholes in a really shiny field of smoothness after I sand with 800-1000, then polish. I'm guessing these are the bottoms of the "valleys". I'm thinking I'm not sanding down far enough or not using the right grit sandpaper (I start with 800 or 1000 and wetsand it) or I'm not polishing it enough. I use Chemical Guys V32, then V-36 with a Torq X. I let the polisher spin and don't press hard (it doesn't spin if I do).

QUESTION 3:
Spraygun at 30psi at the handle gauge, right? How much pressure drop is there to the tip? The tip says 10 psi max. Compressor is set for 90 at the outlet. Is there a range of psi that could work? In other words, does 5 psi make a huge difference?

Any tips, help, etc, would be appreciated. I'm getting tired of sanding out my screwups! I'm also running out of time (and paint!); I start back up at work soon and I also want to be done before my neighbor complains again.

burton73
How long are you letting it sit before you color sand it?

There can be fish eyes that can be like craters.

I learned to paint on motorcycle tanks in the late 60s.

Look up these things on UTube and learn.

Bob B

Andyrew
1. Yes.

2. Pinholes are typically from something called solvent pop and is a real PITA to get prevent on some paint. I would talk to your paint supplier and describe the issues your having. Make sure you have good filtration of water and that you have adequate ventilation of the materials. What's happening is little bubbles are coming from the first layer and trying to escape but not able to.

3. This should help

https://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/spray...ssure-settings/
burton73
After you color sand, wipe it clean and look at it under a bright light. Any low area will show as shiny. That can be a valley that you did not bring up to the mountain top.



Bob B

ValcoOscar
Jeff-

Keep in mind, our current HOT weather pattern is not helping
blowtorch.gif blowtorch.gif

I can't spray certain paint by midday. We paint at night right now.

Brutally hot as of late.

Oscar
IronHillRestorations
If you have a contaminant on the surface no amount of paint will fix that, you'll only be making it worse by adding more paint on top.

Practice on something else besides your 914 smile.gif
914 RZ-1
Thanks all. Here are my responses:

I'm letting it sit for a week before sanding. The paint supplier told me to wait that long.

I didn't think it was solvent pop causing the pinholes, thanks for pointing that out. I wait 15 minutes between coats; maybe I should just spray one coat, or wait longer.

I wipe the surface down with surface prep (Prepall) right before I spray. My paint area isn't perfectly clean, and I've got a few bugs that have landed in the wet paint. They just sand out. But, for the most part, there doesn't appear to be any evidence of contaminants. One thing I heard over and over was "CLEAN the surface, then clean it again!".

I looked on youtube and elsewhere to learn. I thought I had this down. I painted a hood a few months ago and it looked great. I think I need more specific help pertaining to my situation (the weather, psi, equipment, paint type, etc.). I thought some of you might have some insight, so thanks! beerchug.gif

I think Oscar is right-the weather is not helping. I'm even using high temp reducer and hardener (for 85-100 degree conditions). It was about 85-90 degrees (50% humidity) in the garage when I painted at about 10 am.

I can paint at night, but I think it pisses off my neighbor. I'll try one more coat (early in the morning) on a door at higher psi and see what that does. I'm going to dial this in on the doors and hoods before I do the car body!
worn
QUOTE(Perry Kiehl @ Jul 31 2018, 03:09 PM) *

If you have a contaminant on the surface no amount of paint will fix that, you'll only be making it worse by adding more paint on top.

Practice on something else besides your 914 smile.gif

With paint so pricey, I have to practice on my car. Or perhaps I should say experiment. I am having the same problem as the OP has described, only my conclusion is solvent pop more than orange peal (also potentially OP). I think some of us reason like I do, thinking if I get enough paint on I can just color sand to what I want. Good plan except for when you lay down Swiss cheese for paint.

Also, a supplied air system is very much worth considering. It is an extra hose to drag around, but the paint chemicals are hard on the body. One alternative that looks like a winner is a scuba tank and regulator. eBay or Craig’s should be a help there.
914GT
Don’t overlook the quality of your compressed air if you’re having flaws in your finish. A filter/regulator mounted right at the compressor tank with a hose to your spray gun is likely not enough to eliminate moisture and oil that can spit out and cause fisheyes or what might be blamed on solvent pop. I don’t know what you have for a compressed air system but it’s important to trap the water and oil that can really screw up an otherwise nice paint job.
mb911
Prepsol should be allowed to dry /evaporate before spraying anything over it. I wait a good 15 minutes but apply wet then dry with 2 separate rags and then allow the 15 minute air dry.
914 RZ-1
QUOTE(914GT @ Jul 31 2018, 04:39 PM) *

Don’t overlook the quality of your compressed air if you’re having flaws in your finish. A filter/regulator mounted right at the compressor tank with a hose to your spray gun is likely not enough to eliminate moisture and oil that can spit out and cause fisheyes or what might be blamed on solvent pop. I don’t know what you have for a compressed air system but it’s important to trap the water and oil that can really screw up an otherwise nice paint job.


I've got a 25' coiled hose from the tank to 2 moisture filters on the wall. It then goes out to a coiled 50' hose. I got a "pumpkin" filter at the gun.

Interestingly, whenever I purge the moisture filters on the wall, no fluid comes out. When I purge the tank, I do get a bunch of orange water.

Compressor is 8.6/6.4 cfm @40/90 psi. 2 (running, not peak!) HP, 33 gallon.
914 RZ-1
Here's the latest:

I painted both doors. I put on 2 coats, one right after the other while it was still wet. They both look pretty good except for some orange peel in a few places. It doesn't seem as bad as before. I'll try sanding it out. It looked really good when I first sprayed it, then as it dried the orange peel appeared.

The gun was intermittently not spraying paint, but otherwise it went well.

It was 85-90 degrees, 45% humidity at 9 am.

Click to view attachment
Andyrew
What kind of gun with what size tip are you spraying with?
Andyrew
QUOTE(914 RZ-1 @ Jul 31 2018, 05:03 PM) *

QUOTE(914GT @ Jul 31 2018, 04:39 PM) *

Don’t overlook the quality of your compressed air if you’re having flaws in your finish. A filter/regulator mounted right at the compressor tank with a hose to your spray gun is likely not enough to eliminate moisture and oil that can spit out and cause fisheyes or what might be blamed on solvent pop. I don’t know what you have for a compressed air system but it’s important to trap the water and oil that can really screw up an otherwise nice paint job.


I've got a 25' coiled hose from the tank to 2 moisture filters on the wall. It then goes out to a coiled 50' hose. I got a "pumpkin" filter at the gun.

Interestingly, whenever I purge the moisture filters on the wall, no fluid comes out. When I purge the tank, I do get a bunch of orange water.

Compressor is 8.6/6.4 cfm @40/90 psi. 2 (running, not peak!) HP, 33 gallon.

I always buy a new filter from HF whenever spraying. This type. It will grab all moisture. I have used JUST this filter before without issue for minor work. I replace it after the media starts to change color.
https://www.harborfreight.com/inline-desicc...lter-68215.html
Costa05
I thought I read in one of your posts that you were running 10 to 15 psi at the gun which is real low. 25 to 30 psi is better. From what I have learned from the net is 10 psi is at the tip of the gun but is unmeasursble. The pressure must be sustained obviously and with small compressors that can be difficult to do. Thus small parts its ok. A good test is release just air out of gun, set the pressure, and continue releasing while watching the gauge see just how fast it drops off on you. I had a 20 gal compressor once that gave maybe enough time for one coat on a small fender at the required pressure. It got way better with my 60 gallon.
914 RZ-1
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Aug 1 2018, 10:04 AM) *

What kind of gun with what size tip are you spraying with?


This one, with a 1.4 tip:
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-profess...-gun-68843.html

I thought I would try a cheap gun first, then buy a nicer one, but this one seems to work fine. Everything I read said it's really the technique, not just the gun, that makes for a good spray job.
914 RZ-1
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Aug 1 2018, 10:09 AM) *

QUOTE(914 RZ-1 @ Jul 31 2018, 05:03 PM) *

QUOTE(914GT @ Jul 31 2018, 04:39 PM) *

Don’t overlook the quality of your compressed air if you’re having flaws in your finish. A filter/regulator mounted right at the compressor tank with a hose to your spray gun is likely not enough to eliminate moisture and oil that can spit out and cause fisheyes or what might be blamed on solvent pop. I don’t know what you have for a compressed air system but it’s important to trap the water and oil that can really screw up an otherwise nice paint job.


I've got a 25' coiled hose from the tank to 2 moisture filters on the wall. It then goes out to a coiled 50' hose. I got a "pumpkin" filter at the gun.

Interestingly, whenever I purge the moisture filters on the wall, no fluid comes out. When I purge the tank, I do get a bunch of orange water.

Compressor is 8.6/6.4 cfm @40/90 psi. 2 (running, not peak!) HP, 33 gallon.

I always buy a new filter from HF whenever spraying. This type. It will grab all moisture. I have used JUST this filter before without issue for minor work. I replace it after the media starts to change color.
https://www.harborfreight.com/inline-desicc...lter-68215.html


Thanks, I'll look at this one. I think I need a new filter anyway. I was using the red "pumpkin" filters.
914 RZ-1
QUOTE(Costa05 @ Aug 1 2018, 11:22 AM) *

I thought I read in one of your posts that you were running 10 to 15 psi at the gun which is real low. 25 to 30 psi is better. From what I have learned from the net is 10 psi is at the tip of the gun but is unmeasursble. The pressure must be sustained obviously and with small compressors that can be difficult to do. Thus small parts its ok. A good test is release just air out of gun, set the pressure, and continue releasing while watching the gauge see just how fast it drops off on you. I had a 20 gal compressor once that gave maybe enough time for one coat on a small fender at the required pressure. It got way better with my 60 gallon.


Yeah, I was spraying at that before I learned my lesson. I upped the psi at the gun to 30 and got much better results. I didn't realize how much pressure drop there was. The air even sounds different.

I did just what you suggest: I pressed and held the trigger to see what the pressure was staying at. Before, I just pressed and released and got about 30 psi, but that was just a burst. It would go down to 10 or so when I held the trigger for spraying. My gauge was covered with paint, then when I cleaned it with acetone, the plastic got fogged up. I sanded with 2000 and polished it up so I could see it again.

I don't get as much paint on anything, like I did before, so I've been able to see the gauge while spraying.
Andyrew
QUOTE(914 RZ-1 @ Aug 1 2018, 11:52 AM) *

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Aug 1 2018, 10:04 AM) *

What kind of gun with what size tip are you spraying with?


This one, with a 1.4 tip:
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-profess...-gun-68843.html

I thought I would try a cheap gun first, then buy a nicer one, but this one seems to work fine. Everything I read said it's really the technique, not just the gun, that makes for a good spray job.


Thats certainly a good enough gun. The purple $15 guns are junk, but that one is good enough. My $600 gun works only a hair better than my $80 gun.
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