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tazz9924
So ive been having this problem lately where the fuse that powers the brake lights keeps popping and when it does it turns the gen warning light on. The alternator (Subaru swapped) keeps going like nothing even happened but im left without brake lights. A little diving found that the brown and gray wire that is T’d to the brake lights at the brake light switch is also connected to the alternator in the middle terminal on the connector. Im gonna unplug it to test wether it keeps popping the fuse or not. Any ideas as to what could be happening?
ClayPerrine
QUOTE(tazz9924 @ Jul 21 2018, 09:30 PM) *

So ive been having this problem lately where the fuse that powers the brake lights keeps popping and when it does it turns the gen warning light on. The alternator (Subaru swapped) keeps going like nothing even happened but im left without brake lights. A little diving found that the brown and gray wire that is T’d to the brake lights at the brake light switch is also connected to the alternator in the middle terminal on the connector. Im gonna unplug it to test wether it keeps popping the fuse or not. Any ideas as to what could be happening?



See if the fuse pops when you put the car in reverse. The backup light switch was superseded to a 915 switch, if the shifter is even slightly mis-adjusted, the pin will push too far in and the switch will short to ground, blowing the fuse. Ask me how I know... 70 with new switch and a mis-adjusted tail shifter.



Mike Bellis
Check the spade connector at the switch below the pedal board. I had this problem and the wire was bouncing around.
tazz9924
QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jul 21 2018, 08:24 PM) *

QUOTE(tazz9924 @ Jul 21 2018, 09:30 PM) *

So ive been having this problem lately where the fuse that powers the brake lights keeps popping and when it does it turns the gen warning light on. The alternator (Subaru swapped) keeps going like nothing even happened but im left without brake lights. A little diving found that the brown and gray wire that is T’d to the brake lights at the brake light switch is also connected to the alternator in the middle terminal on the connector. Im gonna unplug it to test wether it keeps popping the fuse or not. Any ideas as to what could be happening?



See if the fuse pops when you put the car in reverse. The backup light switch was superseded to a 915 switch, if the shifter is even slightly mis-adjusted, the pin will push too far in and the switch will short to ground, blowing the fuse. Ask me how I know... 70 with new switch and a mis-adjusted tail shifter.

No reverse lights, i like to live dangerously. But the wires could be bouncing around if I didn’t cut them. Ill look at it
Dave_Darling
DON'T CUT WIRES! NEVER EVER EVER CUT WIRES!

Seriously, it's easy to tape them up so they don't short and zip-tie them out of the way. Cutting any wires is almost always the wrong thing to do on these cars.... (The one exception is the Dreaded Seatbelt Interlock Relay, which you bypass by splicing the large starter wires together.)

--DD
SirAndy
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 22 2018, 11:43 AM) *
DON'T CUT WIRES! NEVER EVER EVER CUT WIRES!

agree.gif

They easily slide out of the switch, why in the world would anyone cut them?
confused24.gif
rhodyguy
And then throw the button ends away. Youth.
tazz9924
Calm down everyone jeez. This car was plauged with wiring problems since i got it, i did everything I could to fix it but at this point the harness is probably a lost cause (found a lot of melted wires(none of which was in a related circuit)). Im just trying to get it not to pop a fuse before big changes happen, which seems to have been remedied by unplugging the idiot light wire and i taped it. Now i just watch my voltage gauge, my alternator didn’t seem to care about what I thought was a critical circuit.... it’ll be fine laugh.gif
tazz9924
Oh yeah btw I have a Subaru transmission not a 901 I don’t just cut wires all whilly nilly
76-914
I cut wires on conversions whenever necessary. However, I do solder the wires back together AND I use marine type heat shrink that emits a silicone seal when heated, I'll guarantee you this is a damn site better than OEM crimp fittings. IIRC, McMark showed that trick here a few years back. beerchug.gif
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