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yeahmag
If anyone would comment on these values I'd really appreciate it. These were all done from the ECU harness using Brad's testing procedure - http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm (Thanks Brad!).

D-Jet Troubleshooting values:

TS1 – Air Temp Sensor – 242 ohms (expected 300 ohms)
Fuel Injector – cylinder 1 – 3.4 ohms (expected < 3.0 ohms)
Fuel Injector – cylinder 4 – 3.3 ohms (expected < 3.0 ohms)
Fuel Injector – cylinder 2 – 3.2 ohms (expected < 3.0 ohms)
Fuel Injector – cylinder 3 – 2.8 ohms (expected < 3.0 ohms)
MPS Primary Coil – 93.9 ohms (expected 90 ohms)
    -No continuity to the case from either lead

MPS Secondary Coil – 363 ohms (expected 350 ohms)
    - No continuity to the case from either lead

Accelerator Pump Contact Track:
    -Both #1 and #2 seemed flaky and inconsistent

ECU Ground – 0.00 ohms (expected < 0.5 ohms)
Trigger contacts assumed good – engine runs and idles OK
ECU Battery Power – Assumed good – Battery out of car
TPS Idle Contact – 0.05 ohms closed, infinity open (expected the same)
Start Signal – Assumed good, not tested, car starts – No battery in car
TS2- Cylinder Head Temp Sensor – appears to be open:
    Pin 23 to ground – infinity

    Pin 23 to CHT Lead 0.00 ohms (good)

    CHT Lead to ground 0.00 ohms (good)

    **Seems that the CHT itself is open.



-Aaron

lapuwali
I'd double check your CHT readings. An open CHT shouldn't allow the car to start at all, and it will be very rich. A shorted CHT will allow it to start, but it won't run well. Measure the resistance between a disconnected CHT lead and ground. You should read about 6-7K ohms "cold", and 200-ish ohms with the engine at full temp. If you get infinite between the disconnected lead and ground, then you do have an open sensor.

The TS1 value is no problem, it's supposed to vary with temp, and the value in Brad's table is for 68dF. The resistance of the injectors is not a big issue unless it's WAY different than the expected value (5-10x different).

The TPS could probably stand to be cleaned with alcohol or contact cleaner.







JoeSharp
I'm with James. The CHT should change with temp. I have not had a bad one but have watched the resistance change with the temp. You are well passed my ability and understanding of the D-Jet system.
:PERMAGIRN: Joe
Bleyseng
Ok, What is the problem with the engine?
With those readings it seems like the CHT is toast.
yeahmag
The problem is two fold. It smells really rich and smokes once warm. I have a thread on this over here:

1974 2.0L 914 Smoking
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...f=2&t=32322&hl=

I'd read on another forum that FI can produce white smoke in a overly rich mixture. The car has good power, but I have yet to do a leak down test.

So my problems are many, just trying to find the truth - I hear it's out there. :-)

-Aaron
bd1308
QUOTE (yeahmag @ Jun 14 2005, 09:52 AM)
just trying to find the truth - I hear it's out there. :-)

"I WANT THE TRUTH"

"YOU CAN'T HANDLE THE TRUTH"

smile.gif
lapuwali
An open CHT will make it rich, and usually so rich it won't start and will barely run if you manage to get it started. You should see black smoke out the tailpipe when it's too rich. On an air-cooled engine, white smoke is oil smoke (usually blue-ish). A shorted CHT will make it run lean. You shouldn't see any smoke in that case, but it will lack power and usually pop and bang.

markb
I had a mismatched ECU/MPS & it made mine run real rich. It didn't have much in the way of power, tho.
yeahmag
I found the adjustment knob on the ECU pretty much all the way over to one side... I put it back on the |_| mark for now. I'm working under the assumption that even if I have to do a top end rebuild I'll still need to have the CO adjusted by someone with a clue.

I'm wondering if I may have a break in the wire for the CHT. Not that I can even get the plug out of the double ended connector. Damn thing is in there good! Once I get a new CHT sensor I'll probably cut the wire on the CHT Sensor side and see if I can work it out.

-Aaron
JoeSharp
I know that there are running D-Jets in your hood. I have one here but the car can't be driven to your place. If you want to come ckeck it out just PM me.
:PERMAGRIN: Joe
yeahmag
There is only one guy I know that has a 914 and the first thing he does is remove the F.I. and add carbs... Can't say I blame him, but I'm pretty excited about how stock this car is. I'd like to keep it that way if I can for a while.

Thanks. I'll PM you if I'm gonna be down that way. I take my dogs to Dog Beach in HB and surf once in a while...

-Aaron
Bleyseng
yeah, after you run the carbs for awhile you will pull the box out and put the FI back on with the same problem you have now.....

I would start with the small cheap stuff now, like replace the CHT.
Remove old CHT

Start with grinding off a corner of a 3/8ths extension so a wire can pass up thru it with the new CHT in the deep socket.
Glue the CHT washer on the CHT using some dielectric grease
Install carefully so as not to crossthread the damn thing. Install the rubber seal in the tin if its gone.
Plug in the wire to the plastic connector.
yeahmag
Got the CHT sensor out using the "grind the extension trick" listed below. After accidently pulling the connector off the harness side that is... Real fun soldering down there... Sigh.

Tested the old one on the bench and the values are all over the place just standing still, most of the time it's open though. Replacing that will surely help me troubleshoot the rest of the system.

Someone recommended to me opening up the TPS and cleaning it out. Anybody have a how-to on that?

-Aaron
Dave_Darling
Step 1: Remove the TPS from the throttle.
Step 2: Locate the tabs holding the black plastic cover on the backing plate of the TPS, carefully pry them loose, remove the cover.
Step 3: Clean up the traces on the circuit board and the contacts where the plug goes.
Step 4: Put the cover back on.
Step 5: Install the TPS back on the throttle.
Step 6: Adjust the TPS.

--DD
yeahmag
Dave,

Any suggestions on a cleaning solution? Should I use some dielectric grease on the contacts after they are cleaned?

Thanks for your help!

-Aaron
lapuwali
Sand the contacts to remove corrosion, then clean with alcohol.
yeahmag
No lubricant of any sort? Just dry contacts?

Thanks.

-Aaron
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