I pulled my rockers for the first time today. This is what I found on the passenger side. It is a hole about the size of a quarter. I poked around with a screw driver and this is all I found. The drivers side is perfect. What is the verdict? Eddy

pic #2

pic #3

finally, #4

go ahead and put the car on a trailer and drive to Louisville,KY....gimme a PM so i know to expect you....


no seriously....fix it. Welding

Poke in the hell hole... that damage is too high up to be 'extremely' local.




M

The hell hole area is perfect as it was repaired by the P.O. Eddy

miles, you thinking what i'm thinking.........

He missed a spot..

No Britt, I've had so much sex with women, I don't hardly even think about it anymore.



M

QUOTE (smooth_eddy @ Jun 14 2005, 02:31 PM)

What is the verdict?

the battery acid ate the top of your long (also called "Hell Hole") and then made it's way downward and out the bottom of the long.

it's not terminal, but it'll be a bit of work. rust needs to be cut out and patch panels need to be welded in.

make sure you fix the top of the long as well (meaning, cut out the POs fix and do it right, he obviously didn't) ...
Andy

I didnt know 914s rusted down there

QUOTE (MattR @ Jun 14 2005, 03:58 PM)

I didnt know 914s rusted down there

down there....get a map...seattle is ABOVE CA.......

CA cars dont rust? Oh, sorry I forgot... check my blog

Its all fixed now and it looks purdy, so dont worry.

Other related issues are at the top of the doors where they meet the sail panel. The gaps are pretty small. Both of the doors gap on all sides about 1/4". But on the top of the door where it comes together near the sail panel, the gap is only 1/8". The drivers window does hang a little with the glass all the way up. So the car has folded some like a taco. The rest of the gaps are fine. So can the long repair be done without addressing the door gap issue or does that need to be fixed first? Second question is do I have to take it to a unibody shop to get the door gaps correct? Eddy

QUOTE

So can the long repair be done without addressing the door gap issue or does that need to be fixed first? Second question is do I have to take it to a unibody shop to get the door gaps correct?

the gaps are normally dependant on the repair of the longs....

QUOTE

the gaps are normally dependant on the repair of the longs....

Not sure what you mean by this?

I saw a photo a while ago where kind of a reverse turnbuckle was fabricated to push the body back to where it should be. Is this what I need? Eddy

QUOTE (smooth_eddy @ Jun 14 2005, 08:16 PM)

Not sure what you mean by this?

you'll need to fabricate braces to pull your tub to specs and hold it there, then repair the long ...

take the doors off and brace from the top front door mount to the door-lock plate in the back.
also brace to top part, from the sun-visor mounts to the targa latch mount, preferably a X-brace there ...

once all the distances are to spec, start fixing the long ...
Andy

door braces ...



top braces ...

QUOTE (smooth_eddy @ Jun 14 2005, 07:17 PM)

I saw a photo a while ago where kind of a reverse turnbuckle was fabricated to push the body back to where it should be. Is this what I need? Eddy

Those hold the car to the proper specs when welding. Specs can be found at the top of the page under "914 Info"

If you jack up your car and the door gap changes, you have major flexin the body that requires repair. If there is no change, then the PO when they welded in the patches and never made sure the specs were right on before welding.

QUOTE

If you jack up your car and the door gap changes, you have major flexin the body that requires repair. If there is no change, then the PO when they welded in the patches and never made sure the specs were right on before welding

I have jacked up the car before and I don't think anything changes. I will check again tomorrow by jacking both sides. If nothing changes, is there a way to correct the gaps? I find it strange that the drivers side long is perfect with zero rust and yet the door glass hangs a bit and my gap is tight on top of the door.

Is any else having problems posting this eve? Eddy

More photos please...

Alright, more photos tomorrow. I know how visual this club is...........Eddy

QUOTE (smooth_eddy @ Jun 14 2005, 08:39 PM)

is there a way to correct the gaps?

aehm. yes. did you look at my posts?

you'll need to get the car back to the factory specs. that means *bending* the tub back to where it belongs.
then hold it there with braces.
then repair the longs ...

the exact measurements can be found in the "914 Info" section.

btw. the *more* you take off your car (weight) the easier it'll be to pull it back without you having to rent time on a celette bench (expensive but *the right way* to do this) ...

you'll be able to pull/push the frame back where it belongs, use braces with adjusteable length (threads) for fine tuning ...

depending on how much the PO welded on the hell hole, you might have to cut that all out again, as it will make it easier for you to move the frame back ...

Andy

Both sides have a door gap at the top of 1/16" not jacked and 1/8" jacked. Door window hang up issues on drivers side only with window fully raised. Which seem weird because the long is perfect on that side. Passenger side door and glass works fine.

this one is jacked

this one is not jacked

passenger side......jacked

passenger side not jacked

this is where the glass hangs up on the drivers side.

Not sure if this is a separate issue or not but my trunk on the drivers side rides high.

another trunk shot