Hi,

I have converted to carbs on my spare engine and am looking for what folks have been using as a cable/connection etc for the cable from the tunnel to the support bracket and then to the carb linkage connecting rod.

I'm confused. Are you asking what people use in between the linkage and the end of the throttle cable? Or what linkage? The linkage you get should have everything needed to go from the end of the throttle cable to the linkage.

CSP linkage
Tangerine Sync Link

are the only ones I would ever use

Here is a photo of the Triad West linkage from the Triad web site.

The Triad linkage appears to be the same as the Weltmeister linkage kit which I have and like. The stock throttle cable attaches directly to the cable bracket which bolts to the fan housing.

Used to have a triad. Was the Best cross bar on the market (opinion). I don't know if Dave makes them anymore.

I agree that the Tangerine linkage is fantastic. I know when I asked my mechanic about it, he told me that was the product that we were going to use already, as in, there would be no discussion on this. And I agree, very simple but extremely effective

http://www.tangerineracing.com/throttlelinkage.htm

My bad...I was in a rush

I have a redline linkage and I am trying to find a cable with attachents or a kit that will hook up to the bracket and the linkage itself. I have a Terrybrand but the end won’t fit through the nozzle on the right. And even if it does I’m not sure it’s long enough.

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There are still a couple of issues with the most recent revision that I need to address.
Mostly related to minor wrench interference where the slave cable adjusters are mounted.

The Terry throttle cable is plenty long enough for carb applications.

You need to fiddle with your mounting to make it work, it likely will not work as you have it set up. When I was running carbs I made a simple bracket that attached to the engine case.



Zach

McMark (Mark DiBernardi) at Original Customs has made cable brackets for the CSP linkage.

I'm a fan of the CSP, it's simple to install and adjust, and it's very factory like in how it adjusts. The biggest caveat is the cable bracket, you have to buy or fabricate one. If I can ever get ahead of things, I'm going to come up with a cable and bracket for the CSP that allows stock cable routing.

I like the Tangerine set up as well, Chris always makes quality stuff. The engine I worked on that had that set up, had AMC heads, and the pulleys made it more of a challenge to change spark plugs.

Chris will you be sending customers upgrades like 914rubber does when they improve on design to existing customers?

I have the Tangerine linkage (an early one). It's great!

Ok - thanks for the information

Looks like redline has a full kit for a 914 - and the picture looks like it has a bracket - but I can’t seem to find just the bracket

That would be great! I have an unopened CSP linkage sitting in parts storage. I'm hoping to finish the engine rebuild over the winter and will need to tackle this along with a custom air box I've been mulling. I was told you can order custom length cables from Terry and 914Rubber has offered the same. But figuring out the cable length for stock routing to an undetermined cable location for carbs is tricky.

So I've made some progress...but still not there. I managed to make up a part that holds the cable at the bracket. So thats good. Now problem is that the cable is too short by about 6 inches. Not the whole black coated cable, only the inside raw wire that protrudes past the bracket. I don't think its hung up anywhere in the tunnel as when i pull on it the connector to the gas pedal moves. Any ideas? Can you but "extensions" for the inside wire? ugh....

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The cable should stick out of the sheath further than in your picture.
It has to be hung up somewhere, which is really easy to occur at the front of the tunnel.

Although it will never stick out far enough for where you put your bracket.

The best way to test for something wrong with the cable is to pull on the engine end while someone else presses on the pedal.

Flip your carbs end for end, which will put the link bar closer to your cable. You will need to reposition the actuator.

You are almost there.

Zach

Ahhh - yes, that will work. Or I guess just move everything to the front of the carbs. Thanks

I know you really want to run this linkage, not sure why as your build is beautiful and this linkage is super sub par, but keeping it, you may want to readjust where you actually pull from. The fact that it is so close to one side will may make it tweak during use making them out of sync. If it doesn't happen right away it will happen over time. Think about moving it closer to the middle.

Will do. I will try this, and if I don't like it I'll switch it out in total. Thanks

btw - does anyone know where to get a bracket for the CSP set up?

I'm not an expert on the cap, but I thought it came with. PM mcmark he uses them all the time.

ok, I broke down and ordered the CPS unit and a bracket from McMark.......Its on its way

On the way...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cS4Kq7Zafag

Here is my CSP linkage setup.
I had the cross bar before.
This is much better!

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Having a tough time with the CSP instructions given that I removed another linkage. Trying to find a picture of how this attaches to the carb? Also, which is left vs right carb? The picture attached below is the drivers side carb


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ok, so i think I got it...

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Cool! My CSP linkage is still in its package so I will need to figure this out myself soon. I was going to suggest exactly what you did but though somebody who had actually done it might chime in.

This may not be a good place to reply to the post, but Triad does have linkage finished,boxed and ready to ship..PM me. Sorry if I stepped on anyone's toes.

Just a side note, but from your pictures it looks like the throttle stop pieces are no longer on the ends of the carbs that have the idle stop screws. In order to set-up/sync the carbs you will need those pieces on one end or the other(whichever end has the stop screws). Might have to swap the carbs from side to side again to reinstall those unless you have enough throttle shaft sticking out for both pieces to be mounted.

Agree.
I will also add that it isn't as good to put actuating arms at the opposite end from the stops. It increases the possibility of twisting a butterfly shaft.

I will say Chris is very humble on this one. His linkage is the only thing I would use on my 914-4s. Matter of fact after messing with a CB crossbar, I upgraded and was glad I did. Night and day difference. CSP looks good, but the issue I have is when things grow as they do, it will change the relationship of the carbs to the linkage.

Not sure I understand what isn't right here - so if you could explain a bit that would help and i'll fix it. Here are the two pics of each carbs hookups. Thanks !

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Do the same on the other side, might have to move the carbs around from side to side to make them work with your linkage.

You also need some spark plug boot seals on your plugs, you want to not let the air leak anywhere up top and push all the air out the bottom.

Thanks..but I’m still confused. I follow the CSP directions carefully and my setup looks like others.

Both linkages are connected to the rear (trunk) side of the carbs. One is on the side with the tension spring and the other is on the side without a spring.

The levers that come with the kit only has one lever that has a notch for use on the carb side with the return spring. The other lever has no notch. And the directions are fairly clear.

So are you saying move the spring on the drivers side carb such that the rods are connected to both sides with the spring?

This is a pic from another thread. I think mine is the same. On drivers side the spring is on the other side (towards front of car) of the linkage. The linkage is on the side towards the rear of the car.

On the passenger side the spring is on the same side as the linkage - towrdsthe rear.


You can also see the linkage parts below - one lever has a notch for the spring side. The other doesn’t

Thanks!
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Thanks !

At a minimum you need to move the idle stop screws so they are against the idle stop brackets at the other end of the carb. The CSP brackets have no provision for the idle stop screws.
Ideally it's desirable to have the idle stop, full throttle stop, and actuating arm all on the same end of the carb. This is the best way to eliminate a possibility of twisting the butterfly shaft. Almost as good would be to have the full throttle stop and actuating arm at one end, with the idle stop at the opposite end. Setting the pedal stop on the pedal board is also important in preventing twist of the throttle (butterfly) shafts, especially if the actuator is at the opposite end from the stops. A slightly twisted throttle shaft will make proper tuning impossible.
It's also smart to have a second return spring on each carb. Setting them up so they close the throttle while not increasing the tension too much can be a challenge.

Thanks Chris - very helpful.

Do I need anything special to switch the spring over to the other side of the carb? I started to google it and ended up down a rat hole with Links to a web-link conversion kit for Weber’s that NLA....

I don't think it's possible to switch the spring to the other end. The casting is different at both ends.
At one time, there were kits for 914s which had a left and a right carb. Most setups use two of the same carb which isn't the best arrangement.