Taking out the center tunnel is a major undertaking if you are just trying to mitigate the corrosion of a serviceable floor pan.
Tape up the wiring harness, and remove all control cables. Double check your clutch tube, as now would be the time to repair it if needed. I'll usually reinforce the firewall where it comes through, at the minimum.
This method requires correct respiratory protection, and I'm not talking about a fiber particle mask, you need a respirator for paints and/or acid. As you'll be spraying both.
What I've done in the past is use a undercoating kit with the different spray wands and nozzles. I start with very hot water and rinse it out, then more hot water with a cleaner (wet pickup shop vac as needed to clean up the water), and then rinse off the cleaner with clean water. While wet spray it all with 50/50 solution of Ospho, let it sit for a few mins and re-spray the 50/50 mix, wait a few more mins then rinse with more clean water. Clean up all the mess and spray it all good and dry with air, you can use the wands an nozzles for this too. You can also run your shop vac in reverse to blow it all dry. Let it sit for a day or so to make sure it's all dry. Then spray it with Eastwood's "Internal Frame Coating" really well, 2 or 3 coats. I'd do this with the longs too, just don't use as much water so you don't damage the paper coated heater tubes.
My undercoating/rustproofing kit is about 25 years, so I don't know what's out there now. Mine has 3 different wands, 3 nozzles, and came with 3 poly paint/solution bottles that screw on the gun.
Here's the Eastwood internal coating, it's the stuff to use.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-...oz-aerosol.html