Nothing like waiting till the last minute.
Super excited to drive some twisties with all new ball joints, turbo tie rods, shocks, and control arm bushings.


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Drives better if they are on the car?

Me I added rear sway bar, Koni adjustables, and a bit of negative camber.

Oh and a new engine. Cant wait for the drive.

mike, what did you do to add the negative camber? is that a change in the shims? I have been told I need more negative camber as well., I should do this while the car is up to get motor put back in.... - just put new bushings on my rear stock sway bar as well. - found my squeak I had too, it was the drop link bushing on right side- it was put in new a couple years ago, needs some lube I guess.

0 in the front 30 minutes neg in the rear, no more unless you are racing

but is the camber adjustment in rear made by changing shims?

Noted edited due to units.

For me as I will be doing mainly street driving, my goal was to put another-1/2 degree camber on both ends, giving you -1/2 degree front and -1 degree rear.

As you are limited by the shims, you will have to come up with a combination that gets you to what you want to have. Stock camber is 0 to 15 minutes.

A 1mm shim results in approx. 10 min (0.166667 degree) change of camber.

I was able to use my various combination of shims to get about -0.3 degrees on the rear. So it would be best to know what your current camber, but assuming it is between 0 to 15 minutes (0 and 0.333 degrees) you can measure the shims you have and try to come up with a combination that takes out between .5mm and 1mm of shims. There is almost always positive camber on these cars so the resulting amount of negative camber on the 0.5mm would likely not be extreme and taking out a full mm should be acceptable.

I had +1.4 degrees (84 min) in mine so I took out a lot of shims! Someone please help me verify that taking the shims out increases negative camber!

Mark position of rear axle control arm on base plate and remove center bolt. Loosen remaining bolts only slightly. Change shims between control arm bearing and body to change camber angle. With camber to correct specifications tighten bolts, install center bolt and tighten.

yes they come in 2 3 and 4. for 20 minute 30 minute and 40 minute change, we had them made as we ran out of used and porsche discontinued the new.


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This topic should be broken out into a separate thread. It's good content but doesn't need to be buried in the Okteenerfest thread

I agree, but when people need advice, why make them post again, even though they posted in the incorrect place?

@vw_porsche
@Mblizzard
@DRPHIL914
@dr914@autoatlanta.com
@billh1963

Split... because something like this deserves it's own thread!

vw_porsche... hope you add more pics!

Bdstone makes new shims in stainless steel. He also makes a 1mm size in addition to the stock sizes.

You got answers about the rear, so I thought I would add that the front is adjusted by moving the bushing holder at the top of the shock.

And so you know you don't have to use shims on the rear

If you need something more radical or less radical depending on tire choice you can have Tangerine racing build them to your specification. Chris will also add a nice gusset in the arm to strengthen it, and another out at the pivot point to give it a bit more flex resistance.