When I bought my car, it had the stabilizer bar between the two rear strut tops as seen in the photo below. I've always had a struggle getting the roof to fit inside the trunk and to be able to close the trunk. Are the top of the struts extra tall compared to stock struts, causing the lid closure problem? Could someone maybe measure how much a stock strut is above the body in the trunk? Many thanks. I'd really like to solve this.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Pull out the bar and see if the top fits. If it does, it's the bar. I'd rule that out first.

I have a rear shock tower stabilizer bar similar to that and my top stows in the trunk just fine.

I don't see the front clips in your trunk...?

Well I'd install the clips 1st, It may just fit, but will not stay without them.
whole set if you need it $30
https://shop.914rubber.com/Roof-Holder-Set-...m?categoryId=-1

Just the clips $3.88 each!
https://shop.914rubber.com/914-Upper-Rear-T...m?categoryId=-1

Sir Larmo, I can see one clip on the left side.

Unless you are tracking your car with some serious sticky tires, I am of the school that 914's do not need these strut support bars.

I was approached by a guy at a PCA club race who wanted to sell me some strut tower connectors he made for 911s. I opened my trunk lids and his comment was, "oh, you don't need these. You have built in support". I don't think they do anything for a street car. Track, probably.

Exactly. The shock towers are supported by the bulkheads in the front and back trunk.

Kinda like a solution to a non problem.

Thank you everyone. I have all of the clips front and back. The back passenger happened to be off as I continue to play with why this roof doesn't fit comfortably.

Not being a mechanic, if I remove the stabilizer bar, aren't I still going to have the high posts issue?

Already bought them from you.

I jealous, Larry. I wish my roof fit. It actually feels like it is riding too high on the wheel wells in the trunk. My trunk lid closes, but the gap between the fenders and the lid is a good 5/8 inch.

I wonder if you're missing the rubber stop on the underside.

I have Koni adjustable shocks and the top adjuster just barely protrudes from the top nut.

Make sure the front latch handle is turned to the side before stowing the roof, and the latches are properly inserted in the cups. Not doing that may cause the lid to sit rearward slightly and prevent the rear rubber supports from moving forward enough for the deck lid to close.

Oh, and remove that strut brace. It's a useless POS.

Chris you of all people should know. So that means get rid of it now!!

I would also like Andy said check to make sure that all of the upper shock hardware is in place including the bushings

Many times in the front when one installs Bilstein shocks, they add a factory spacer underneath on top of the shock cone, it looks like a very thick washer. THAT lowers the top of the threaded portion of the shock so it will not hit the hood

It looks like the dynamat is tucked under the latch cup. That might cause problems. Why do you have it there? Don't understand what that accomplishes.

Let me check on that, Andy. To me it looks like the top of the strut really sits high.

Appreciate that as well, George.

That little peace could go away, but not part of my problem. My trunk is a lot cooler with the insulation. Appreciate the help.

Are you sure it is hitting the strut top?
I was having an issue with one side of my top not sitting all the way down toward the front of the trunk because of excessive factory seam sealer under where the front right side of the top sits. It was slight but it caused the top to rub a little.
I mentioned it in an old post and someone else had a similar issue. His car and my car were both 74s. Maybe somebody occasionally got a little crazy that year with the spray gun.

-Andrew

You know, Andrew, the seam sealer is pretty robust there. Did you grind it down?

Um, is the cup that the latch sits in 180 degrees off? That might do it.

I think Mr. Blume is on to something.
From the picture it looks like the cups are installed over the dynamat.
That may reduce the space required for the front clamps to rest into.
If that is the case I would cut the dynamat to fit around the cups.

Took the car off the road for rust repairs before I got to it. When I repaint I will fix it then.Put your cell phone in the trunk recording video in key places and close it slowly. Thats how I figured it out.

Ed, I'm a bit ignorant here. I haven't touch them. Do they spin and what is the proper position. The Dynafit does not interfere with the cups or the roof.

Many thanks.

Ed, I'm a bit ignorant here. I haven't touch them. Do they spin and what is the proper position. The Dynafit does not interfere with the cups or the roof.

Many thanks.

The deeper part of the cup should be towards the rear of the car if I remember correctly.

- Cup Orientation
- Fender seam sealer preventing the top to freely drop into location
- Top front latches need to be in the latched position with little lever at 90deg, not released, so they are the shortest length going in the cup.

Those are all things that I to deal with to make it work properly.

Good luck

Cup

Fits.

Easy way to check is to pop it out and then test the roof