Okay... so the rear shocks were KYBs. They suck, and I knew that.

I use vice grips to grab the top, and a 19mm wrench to loosen the nut. Great plan, right? Well, the JAPO must have installed these nuts to about 300 ft/lbs.

The top sheared off, and the nut didn't budge. I guess I'm going to have to cut the nuts off with a dremel.

Geez, I hope nobody ever talks about me like I curse this idiot.

-Rusty

Ouch, good time for Koni's right? I think theres a set on evilbay..

I have new Koni yellow adjustables on my livingroom floor.

since they're cooked, can you grab the piston shaft from below with the vise grips and wedge them against something to turn the nut? or, cut the rod from below and pull the rod through the top? it would be a shame to screw up the seating area on top getting to them off.

kevin

I tried grabbing the shaft with vice grips... not much room up there. I'll try again, tonight.

I think I can dremel the nut off, only damaging the washer beneath it.

sawsall, hacksaw blade on the rod, inserted inbetween the coils? why fight it?

kevin

I don't have a Sawzall. Pam has one, but she's 300 miles away.

Besides, the problem is that the rod is spinning with the nut. Cutting the rod won't stop it from spinning, and a slip will mean new springs... unless I'm missing something.

go to the loacal tool rental place. get a sawsall and a long metal cutting blade. you can get them 12"long. you should be able to get to it without galling the springs. can you lock the rod up at the nut some how? let the trailing arm hang, but keep the floor jack under it to keep it from droping like a ton of bricks when the rod is severed. edit: put a open end wrench on the nut, lock it down or have a helper hold the nut stable while you cut.

kevin

Should'nt the coil sping let go if he cuts the rod from underneath? Doesn't sound like a good idea.

An impact wrench would get it off in no time. Do you have a friend around with an electic one?

Marc-André

If you cut the rod it will still be stuck - it will not slip up through the hole. There is another nut that holds the spring on at the top of the shaft (and the washer and bushing) that will not pass up through the mounting hole.

I think an impact or the dremel are your best bets.

I've always used an impact in situations like this

i had forgotten about the retaining nut. holly crap!! what a dope.

kevin

since you are going to junk the shocks, take a pipe wrench to the shaft. wrap it in a rag so you don't scratch the springs and give it the primeval grunt on the nut.

Use a small drill bit and drill down through the nut. Keep increasing the size of the bit untill you break through the nut either on the flat side of the nut or the threaded side. Then use a cold chisel to split the nut open. Only should take a couple of minutes to do. Oh yeah, wear safety glasses. Saves time by not having to go to the ER.

Slowpoke...what is your name ??

Nice description on getting the nut off.. your one of only a few people that has actaully used the words "Saftey Glasses" around here.

I always get a kick out of watching the programs on Discovery Channel where the people dont use welding shields (and you can't see them closing their eyes when tacking something because the camera is behind them)


B

C'mon Brad - you're not having any fun until you've got to get metal chips ground out of your flash-burned eyes!

I'm a firm believer in saftey glasses (now)

B

Me too! after I got slag in my good eye!

That'll learn me! Now I've got scar tissue on my GOOD eye and it's like an astigmatism.
Damn, I'm putting off going to the eye doc, but I think I'm gonna have to do it. Hopefully they
can laser it clean.

Go to your local automotive parts dealer and buy a $10 nut splitter. It will only be used 2 or 3 times in your life but will be worth every penny. 30 seconds and your nut will be off. If not that, get a "zip cut" (very thin composite disk) for your 4" or 5" mini grinder. Enough of the nut is exposed you can slice through the nut and shaft in about 45 seconds.

I borrowed a cordless drill. 15 minutes later and the nuts are off. This is effective, if you don't need to save the bolt/shaft inside.

Thanks for the tip! Now if it would cool down enough to really enjoy working on the car outside.

-Rusty