This is sort of service and resource related but is anyone offering to rent or sell VERY cheaply the jigs to support the chassis (door latch to hinge or Window frame to Targa) bars with the adjustable heim joints to we users trying to weld-up our cars?

The adjustable ones are nice, but only needed if you're gonna regulary use them on different cars

I just fabbed my own (non adjustables)

First I made a plate out of 3mm sheet metal
drilled holes so it would mount where the upper door hinge mounts
bolted it in

for the other end, I was even more lazy
I used an old extra catch plate I had there. Bolted that one in place too

Then I checked the gaps (try jacking the car at different points to get your measurements to match)

Next, I used a piece of 1x1" square tubing cut so it nicely fit between the 2 plates (spanning the door gap)
Double check that you can still access all the bolts
Weld the square tube to the plates (tack weld, then unbolt it and weld it up niceley)

Done!

If you have all the materials (I used scrap mostly) it'll take you an hour max to fab it up

I made my own without much trouble. It took me more then an hour, but I was also teaching myself to weld at the same time. For adjustment you can get large turnbuckles from home depot or lowes. (at least I think they are called turnbuckles, right?)

I'd be interested in a jig like this. I've been scratching my head over these measurements for days. I just can't tell from the diagrams in the 914 Info section precisely where to take the measurements for the door gap. Does anyone have a picture or illustration of Dimensions F,G and H that might make things clear to me?

QUOTE (dkos @ Jun 16 2005, 06:44 PM)

where to take the measurements for the door gap.

well, you could install the door and look at/compare the gaps.....uniformity is what you are looking for....smaller gaps at the top is bad.............

That was my original plan, but when I get the door gaps looking good the fit is tight where the door meets the windshield.

It started me thinking that maybe I should get all the measurements right. I just can't tell, from the pics and descriptions in the 914 Info section, where exactly to take the measurements.

?

??

QUOTE (dkos @ Jun 17 2005, 07:45 AM)

That was my original plan, but when I get the door gaps looking good the fit is tight where the door meets the windshield.   It started me thinking that maybe I should get all the measurements right.  I just can't tell, from the pics and descriptions in the 914 Info section, where exactly to take the measurements.

Ok,
Somebody step in here a correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the pillar window fitmment adjustable inside the door where it bolts in ?
Dkos, I would think that you would get the door gaps correct, and then adjust the pillar window....

TE

I just looked at the PET diagram for the pillar. It is adjustable but only cross car, not front to back.

Still might help though.

In your picture with the F on it can someone get me that measurement? It would help me to set the windshield back in the proper position when I put one back on.

The factory measure for F is 638 mm and it goes from the corner of the roll bar to the corner of the windshield trim, so it's all under the seal and vinyl I suppose.

As for H it is supposed to be measured at the center point of the hole for the door contact swirtch to the recess for the door stricker on the rear quarter. You're basically supposed to draw some imaginary lines to bring those spots outwards and then measure, not just go from one point to the other. The info I have on that measure is 1337mm.

Here is a picture with the measurements that I consider important for squareness.

I would still like to see a high quality scan of the same picture from the factory manual...

I also think that a car with longitunal problems can not be brought back to squareness with a jack...
These cars twist also so the only thing to use is a door jig or some extention bars.

This is the kind of bar I'm talking about, I borrowed them from a bodyman who has a 914.

I also think that bracing the at the top of the car is not the right way to do it, the windshield frame is very flexible so the door gaps may not turn right.

IF anyone wants more pictures of those bars I can shoot some later, I tried to look on the net but can't find them because I don't know the exact name and the body guy didn't buy them himself.

QUOTE (mihai914 @ Jun 17 2005, 11:41 AM)

As for H it is supposed to be measured at the center point of the hole for the door contact swirtch to the recess for the door stricker on the rear quarter. You're basically supposed to draw some imaginary lines to bring those spots outwards and then measure, not just go from one point to the other. The info I have on that measure is 1337mm.

...so I am supposed to be able to measure acurately to within a mm this way?

I tried measuring and it's not easy taking that one, and 1mm makes one hell of a difference between a perfect door gap and a good one. I think you have to guess more or less this one, just make sure they're the same on both sides. An alternative would be to make your own measure from the end of the front fender to an arbitrary parrallel point on the rear quarter, then check your door gap and adjust the previous measure according to the result you want to obtain. I hope it's clear if not I'll try and explain it better.

How much welding have you done without any bracing? It's entirely possible the car has twisted, especially if you had the floor or rockers cut out and welded back in. In my opinion the best way to brace is to make a tube frame to replace the door, that bolts to the hinge locations (both upper and lower) and forms a triangle back to the latch plate.(similar to the safari doors for Jeeps) You can then make a removeable brace to run from driver to pass. brace to tie the two together. This would almost completely eliminate any movement in the cab area, and if built off of a good chassis, it could be used to align a sagging car.

QUOTE

An alternative would be to make your own measure from the end of the front fender to an arbitrary parrallel point on the rear quarter, then check your door gap and adjust the previous measure according to the result you want to obtain.

This is almost exactly what I did. It works well if you are going to be taking measurments often. I check every time I weld in a new section to the long. It might not be 100% accurate, but it allows you to see if there is any movement.

So clearly this car has big long rust issues, so you take a front fender reference point because you will not touch those and an easy rear reference point for example 2000 mm or 80 inches if you'll be working with standard measures. You won't be touching the rear fender either so the reference points will be stable. And then you'll be free to play with the front and rear section of the car to have the best results for you since this is a hand made vehicle.

So let's say the car in the picture needs to be stretched 4 mm at the bottom then from your reference point on the rear quarter you subtract 4mm ( this is just to make things easier for measuring along with your progress, you can remain with the first reference point but will have to work with 2004 mm instead...)

Of course the top will always have to be square especially on the diagonal to make sure that the car doesn't have twist, you can have the same F measure but have a twisted body...

You may have an issue with the windshield frame being bent, to check it measure straight down from the windshield corner to the flange joining the long and the sill; both sides should be the same. That would be measure G in the upper picture.

It would be so easy to have some really nice jigs, but nobody here seems to have a set.