I installed the pully/wheel combo on my /6 yesterday and it looks/fits perfect!

Thanks Thomas, and thanks Mike!

looks good, going to paint it or at least remove what looks like rust off of it???

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jun 16 2005, 04:12 PM)

looks good, going to paint it or at least remove what looks like rust off of it???

That's not rust, it's malignant water spots ............... The Cap'n

Paint, no. Why bother

I sometimes "Blue" steel parts for a subtle look

you can get bluing at your local gun shop

QUOTE (Dr Evil @ Jun 16 2005, 05:31 PM)

Paint, no. Why bother

jsut giving you bad time...someones got to do it, hahahaha

I front of the pulley !!! Looks good

Have you done the bracket for the VR sensor ??

Actually, one914racer made all of the stuff, and made it work. I have a VR bracket. I will take a pic later and post it for you all. It is simple and effective.

QUOTE (TimT @ Jun 16 2005, 08:37 PM)

I sometimes "Blue" steel parts for a subtle look you can get bluing at your local gun shop

Yeah, I vote blue it!

There are plenty of recipies on the web, and it's fun.


M

QUOTE

I will take a pic later and post it for you all. It is simple and effective.

Thanks. That would be nice !!

bump ??

Damnit, you got me. I need to get the camera from the car. I will get a pic of it tomarrow.

Here is the sensor mount. I used nuts to space the sensor out to the outer side of the pully where the wheel is.

The bolt on the bottom is threaded into the mount because I use the inside of the mount against the block to center it.

I had to shave the sensor a bit to make sure it didn't interfere with the pully/belt.

That looks great. I had a little easiier time on my 4. I'm sure you know it already but, shield the wiring and pay attention to the gap between the sensor and the wheel. How close you set it affects the stength of the signal. If it's too close you won't be able to rev high enough. Mine is the suggested 1 mm but you may need a little more gap. It's been a long road to get it running well.

The EDIS system is noisier than hell. Use the capacitor from the coil+ to ground, get really good plug wires (I finally used an MSD set for one of the Ford 8's) and route everthing you can away from the ignition. It still messes with the cylinder head temp sensor. Use resistor plugs. I finally settled on some Bosch platinum (I know they are supposed to be junk but, they work). Supposedly EDIS likes a large gap so I openned mine to .048. The heat range ended up being the same 7 that the 4 uses stock.

I'm reasonably sure I picked up some high end by being able to back out advance that a distributor would have. I'm satisfied for now as this engine is just a trial horse for a Raby 4 I will put in this fall. That one I'll dyno and we'll really dial in. Tuning the ignition was pretty simple until I had a couple of spots that were flat. I kept trying to get the hesitation out by tuning the fuel. It felt lean but the O2 was all over the place and adding fuel didn't help. Finally, after being frustrated for a week I added some advance and no more flat spots. The O2 flattened out too.

Good luck

Dave

Dave

It will likely be a loooooong time before I get a chance to try it out. I am gonna be busy. I still need to get my computer to talk to my unit Fiid is helping me out, but so far no joy.


Your set up is something that I envisioned for a gear to drive a 4 cyl MFI unit If I had time......the things I could do.