I have a couple of questions about my engine compartment for my 74 3.2 six conversion—what to I need to keep and what can I get rid of? The passengers engine shelf needs replacing, and the driver’s side needs a little work.

While I am in working on the engine compartment what can I get rid of for a cleaner installation?

On the drivers side I have removed the shelf brackets for the relay plate, and the bracket for the blower. Should I remove the ground stud that comes out? Is there anything I should weld shut on that side while I am fixing up the engine shelf?

On the passenger’s side—same question. Also, do I need that angled piece of sheetmetal/bracket that spans the indentation on the upper part of the inner suspension ear? My four-cyl was not stock when I got it and I do not know what that is for.

TIA

-Andrew

No four mounts.

No relay board.

The bracket on the right side of the engine bay is for the MPS and Decel Valve. Might come in handy for mounting something on your Six, but probably not.

If you are using a crossbar engine mount, you obviously need to keep the motor mount pods. If not, you don't need them.

The relay board is actually handy for giving a single connection point for (most of) the electrical stuff for the motor. Not absolutely required, but it can be a nice thing to have. You will have to work out how to connect in all of the stuff that would have gone there in your new setup, since it sounds like you're axing the board.

--DD

Thanks Dave, I forgot to mention the four mounts are already off—prolly gonna go with a PMS mount.

I noticed some rust pitting under the drivers side mount when I took it—it is solid but I thought I would layer another layer of 18ga over to reinforce it.

If I tack on a reinforcement layer there between the firewall and suspension console, do I need to keep that dimple in the long for anything?

See little point in removing the relay board,has a use even with carbs or if you have a heated rear window ,not like its in the way, prefer a relay and fuse for the fuel pump besides

The dimple is a good place to drill a hole for the DME wires to enter the cabin. that's assuming you are keeping the brain inside the cabin. I do on my 3.2. I used the PMS engine to body harness adapter. It's about $200 and is plug and play. Uses stock 14 pin connectors. No relay board needed. It's pretty easy to fuse your fuel pump. Even I did it.
If you are using the stock air box - I did, it's much easier without the relay board in the way.
I have the Naro motorsports mount. It's like a PMS mount but less expensive and maybe a little nicer.

It's also a good time to fit your oil tank. On some cars, there needs to be some clearancing of the door sill reinforcement bracket. Easier to do now than when the engine is in the car.

Thanks Mark,

I am gonna put the DME inside the Passengers compartment—was it you that said the cable is long enough to mount it under the dash?

The dimples to which I was referring are not the ones in the firewall. I mean the ones on the edge of the long. See the rough picture I drew of it below. I was thinking of putting a reinforcement piece (shown in blue) which would cover the dimple.
I think the dimple is for the four engine mount, is there any reason to have it on a six?

Click to view attachment

I know Sir Andy mounted his 3.6 DME under the dash. I think mine will fit but I don't remember if I tried. It's just sitting on the passenger floor since I still need to clean up the wiring.

I don't know off hand what the dimple is for.

This is how I reinforced this area. Click to view attachment

Thanks Ben, that is basically what I was going to do—although I can't see from the photo if you moulded it to the dimple.

I have a piece of Maddog inner long reinforcement laying around that was gonna cut up and use there because it has the right radius bend and the holes already drilled. It will wrap around to the bottom of the long a little. I think I can stretch it to make the bend.

My only concern was eliminating the dimple, I know the dimple is needed of the four mounts, but is there any other use for it on a six, like to help route oil lines on the drivers side or anything?

-Andrew

I left the /4 engine mounts intact, I think that they strengthen, reinforce, and square up the chassis there. I ran my oil lines through the driver's side opening on it so it acts as a hanger too.

I used the PMS motor mounts for my engine, highly recommended.

I actually used 14 ga and molded it to the dimple.. It just looks more factory that way.

As Mepstein said, I also dumped the relay board for my 3.2 conversion and drilled through the dimple to mount my DME computer behind the driver seat. I used a longer backpad screw to hold it in place. I do not think the cable is long enough to mount under the dash. The relay board is worthless in a 3.2 conversion unless you have a rear window defroster. The fuel pump wiring comes off of the DME relay, so it’s easier to just install an inline fuse and connect it direct. I made my own harness, but hassle wise the PMS is worth the price. I used Rich Johnson’s motor mount. I removed the four banger mounts for extra room, but beware, mine had rust behind the one below the battery, so removing it weekend that area and it cracked. As Larmo said you might want to leave them for extra stiffness and backward compatibility.

I know that Wyld Six had the DME relay under the dash. And that it was easy to partly unplug it if you were a passenger with large feet getting into and out of the car in a hurry. (Say, if you were an autoX instructor in that car and others.) And that you feel really, really bad if you are an instructor and you kill a student's car to the point where said student misses a half-day of autoX because you bumped something and didn't realize it.....

--DD

If mine doesn't go under the dash, I was also thinking about mounting it to the floor behind a mad dog motorsports passenger foot board

If it doesn't work, I'll think of something else. Sometimes you need to be flexible and work out the issues as you go.

Will retract what I said cause I didn't read properly,no need for a relay board with a later FI 911 motor ,Perry may offer a solution which would easily be cheaper than golden PMS parts or timmy2 on the bird.

You can make it yourself but you will need two 14 pin connectors. Used ones are usually brittle from age so you want to go new. They are $40 each. Add in the pins and correct color wires and you are at $100. Then the guys have to charge something for their time. So even though PMS is $180, it's not a bad deal for plug and play.