Hello, me again,

The original color of the car was blue.
When I bought it is was already sparking ivory.
Now I’m going to change the color again.

What is the norm for the chassis ID plate.
I’m tempted to stamp in the new color code. Because that makes sense to me.
Is this correct, or am I supposed to stamp in the original color?
Click to view attachment

Use the original color code, anything else would be misleading, but you can keep a record of the color/mix that you use with the car's records for future reference. Also keep that original plate with your records.

Of course, the best value is to take it back to the original color, if the 914 is at all original, numbers matching, non-modified. Otherwise, pick what you like & go with it.


Tom
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Tom is the Concourse guy but, if you do not paint it the color it came with from the factory you may as well put the new code in as your plate is screwed and you need a new one. This is not like changing the VIN number. You will tell the truth if someone asks. If you sell it later you can point it out.

Number 1 do what you want as far as color. I was talked out of changing my 6s color. Cannery Yellow is nice but I love blue.


Bob B

Those screw pins will come out. You can get to them from the back side through and opening in the post. Most of the time you can wiggle them with your finger enough to make a space between the head and the tag. Then grab the pin with a small sidecutter and twist counter clockwise as you guide it out.

Oh man....
I wish I knew that before I completely butchered it up (thinking they were rivets).
Everyone else take note.

Rivets can also be removed by drilling off the head. Use a drill bit about the the size of the shank. Carefully center punch the head. Drill down to either remove the head or deep enough to get a bite in the hole with a close fitting nail set. Put the nail set in the hole and with a prying motion, pop the head off.

Then use the nail set to drive the remaining shank through the hole.

If done right this will not booger up the plate or the hole. Obviously destroys rivet though

Even works with pop rivets, if the pop rivet head turns, you can usually hold the turning head with pliers or a screw driver placed along side the drill bit with just enough pressure to hold the head

Works like a champ, and approved for aircraft repairs! Good luck

if you paint it the original color, I will give you a new plate engraved with the Karman and paint code AND the correct factory rivets. Gemini blue metallic is a fabulous color

Click to view attachment

+1 that is a great color. Plate should maintain the original color code even if a color change is made.

Hmmm. I wish I knew that earlier. Just ordered one from 914Rubber. But it’s a blank, so have to find a way to engrave it.

Take george up on his offer anyway. VERY generous.

George - is that the same blue as on this GT?
@dr914 @autoatlanta.com

Click to view attachment

These are what the pins look like that hold the paint code ID tag on.

No need to drill them, grind them, or pry them off.
They can easily by pressed out or tapped out from inside the door jam.
There is a small access hole that this can be done through very easily.

There is no excuse for mucking up a nice looking ID tag when a car is re-painted.





And I'd tend to agree on leaving the original paint code stenciled on the ID tag.
That way someone in the future can always know what the original color is.
Just keep records of the current color in your glove box and all is taken care of.

yes

Anything but the original color code would be a lie and would show up as so on a CoA.

He might, but 3 owners down the road this will all be forgotten and then the fake Karmann tag will show a color that was never original to the car.

That's why it is best to keep all tags original and simply state that the car was resprayed in a different color when you go and sell it.

Yup, we've already seen something similar (but more than a little worse) where a 914-6 VIN was swapped onto a 914-4 body by someone who claimed it was only for his enjoyment and he would never sell--and then several years later the car was being sold by someone else as a real 914-6...

--DD

Dave,
This is not a VIN tag.
It’s the Chassis number and color code tag.
I will replace it with original number and color code.
That seems to be the norm.

I might take AutoAtlantia up on his offer.

As I said, the VIN swap was "more than a little worse"--it was a whole lot worse. But the history of the switch was lost, which was what I was trying to say.

--DD