Replacing motor and transmission mounts in a original 1973 1.7. Any suggestion on the type and where to purchase? Thanks,

Ken

The 73 uses solid outboard mounts between the bar and the chassis, and rubber mounts between the bar and the engine. For a street car, I don't think solid replacements for those rubber ones are worth it. Stock works fine.

The 914 transmission mounts are the same as the early 914 front mounts and very similar to many 911 motor mounts. You can use the stock mounts, or go a bit stiffer with the "sport mount" (stiffer 911 Cabriolet motor mounts, I think?) or go with semi-solid Wevo or even full solid. I do not recommend full solid for a street 914. The stiffer ones can help keep the trans from moving around while you accelerate and brake, possibly making for fewer shifting problems.

All the usual sources carry them. Pelican, GPR, AA, probably 914rubber, Camp914, 914LTD, and so on.

--DD

Buy stock and be done.

For a '73-'76, engine mount 039 199 231 is common and available from many sources.

There are two transmission mount choices:
914 375 025 00 is the 4-cyl mount and has some voids in the rubber to allow some movement. This is also the engine mount for '70-'72.
914 375 026 00 is the 6-cyl mount and is solid rubber. This mount is considered a stiffer "sport" version when used on 4-cyl cars.

Note regarding use of modified 911 engine mounts as 914 transmission mounts:
When modified to be used as 914 transmission mounts, 911 engine mounts require the mounting holes in the ears to be filed into an oval shape or re-drilled, do not have the proper anti-rotation pins on the center sleeve, are close but not quite the same thickness, are not the original stiffness (the engine mounts are stiffer), and do not have the same appearance as original 914 transmission mounts, which can be an aesthetic issue in a fully-restored vehicle. However, modified 911 engine mounts were certainly a functional substitute until proper 914 transmission mounts were finally made available again from URO and Porsche OEM. (Edited for clarity 11/1/18.)

For transmission most of us have been using the 911 motor mounts they work very well. I ordered OEM 914 motor mount for the engine bar to motor mount this time, I also had the metal solid ones but was told here by members those were way too hard and transmitted a lot of vibration for regular road use.

Very happy with my wevo semi-solid trans mounts. Keeps everything aligned a lot better than the 40 year old mounts I had in the car before. Allows for more aggressive upshifting. Maybe just placebo, but I think they were worth the extra money.

here is a picture of a 911 motor mount used on the 914 transmission and stock washers

stock motor mount

I looked at these but when I was putting my motor back together and ready to go I could not find them, they were out of stock everywhere. Are the WEVO still being made?

I got mine from tarret engineering earlier this summer. They were out of stock everywhere else I looked at that time. Wevo told me they had a batch on order at the time. They probably have them back in stock by now.

Thanks for all the follow up. You guys are a great resource.

What's the right combo for a '74 track-only car? Not concerned about NVH.

I have been running the Wevo blue Trans mounts for years with great luck.

For a track-only car? Solid all the way around. Keeps the drivetrain more positively located.

May cause loosening issues with some fasteners on the engine; I seem to recall some kind of issue with Webers being blamed on solid mounts?

--DD

"Solid" as in aluminum-solid? I don't think that's a good idea...in addition to the loosening of fasteners I'd be worried about sloshing fuel in the carb bowls.

Or do you mean the most-solid rubber isolators?

So, are you saying that either of the engine mounts that you posted above, could be used for the 914 Transmission? and that they are better options than the 911 motor mount, one (like DRPHIL914 posted a picture of above)?



..and DRPHIL914, did you have to make the multiple modification outlined by UROpartsman to this particular 911 ENGINE mount (that you've used at the 914 transmission)?

Is there a 911 mount that works at the transmission (of 914) that does not need modifications. Or is the 914/6 motor mount a better option for tranmission mounts. Sorry but I'm obviously confused.

I think either the 914-6, 911, or WEVO mounts will work great for you. I f8nd that minimizing deflection at the transmission mounts does seem to help with shifting.

Ok good, but they'll need to be modified or not

The 911 mounts sometimes need the mounting holes ovalized a bit. No more than 5 minutes mounted in a vise with a round file. No big deal.
I would get the hardest rubber Wevo mounts for a track car. Listed on the Wevo website.

When i purchased my 911 mounts they were the only option , but the only modification made was slightly enlarge the holes in the ear of the mounts easy peasy and you can see from my pictures after 6/7 years they look and work like new, still nice and tight, no extra movement, very tight.
Back then URO had not stepped up and made a solid reproduction of the original mount.

The 911 mounts will work just fine, but i would not heaitate to test out that 914/6 reproductuon from URO. Drew will stand behind the product i am sure if its not up to your satisfaction

Richard Parr does not recommend them for use with PMO's.
5. Solid Motor and Transmission Mounts

I've noticed a proliferation of advertisements for solid motor-transmission mounts for Porsche 911 race cars. I'm sure they sell well because they are CNC machined out of solid aluminum and they look "cool". They are also considered "hardcore". My opinion is that any practical advantage they possess is vastly outweighed by a myriad of disadvantages.

The basic problem with solid mounts in internal combustion reciprocating engines is that they introduce destructive harmonics into the body of the race car and also back into the engine. Everyone has heard the true stories of cracked sheet metal, loosened nuts and bolts, sheared-off exhaust systems and broken engine cases.

The excessive vibration often sticks the float needle valves in carburetors causing flooding and other times aerates the fuel in the float bowls causing a lean condition.

The intense vibration also can knock out components in EFI systems leading to the common full-lean-at-full-tilt-equals-fried-engine syndrome. The additional tooth- rattling vibration and noise increases driver fatigue and the possibility of a crash. And if there is a hard crash, the solid mounts increase the likelihood of catastrophic damage to the engine and transmission.

Given these well known facts, why would anyone use solid mounts? It is because they stop the engine-transaxle unit from twisting, thereby improving shifting. This condition is substantially improved by using the Porsche sport mounts and is totally cured by using a WEVO shifter along with the sport mounts. Frank Eibell in Florida has made and installed anti-torque bars on the transaxle to cure this problem. Jim Patrick in Arizona makes urethane dampened 914-6 conversion mounts. WEVO urethane engine-transmission mounts are available now.

An interesting theory is that solid mounts actually decrease horsepower by forcing the engine to absorb vibrations that would normally be absorbed by cushion mounts. For every power pulse in an internal combustion reciprocating engine there is a reactive pulse responding to inertia, operating in a counterrotational plane. Containing this reactive pulse with solid mounts diminishes the power pulse by adding secondary vibrations. Greg Edmunds utilized this theory in designing motor mounts for his .4cc x 3.75 HP model airplane engines. By trial and error, Greg was able to tune out the unwanted vibrations by adjusting the durometer of the rubber in his composite motor mounts. His engines put out more horsepower and the airplanes flew faster with the cushion mounts! Full size aircraft never have solid motor mounts


As a footnote, not even the viton valves will hold the fuel level in some cases where solid motor and transmission mounts are used. For race cars, we recommend the Clubsport mounts which can be stiffened by modification. WEVO recently developed urethane motor mounts which should be the best of both worlds.

I'm going to change out my solid aluminum/delrin transmission mounts to black pillow Wevos.

I think I'm experiencing something a bit too too harsh.

I'll report back my findings.

The ones I have on the car came from Patrick MS.

I'm thinking JWest hard nylon fronts, and Wevo Blues in back?

I was seduced early on by solid mounts. My car is 80% street, 10% track, 10% autocross.

They came back off within a week. Too harsh.

Still have them sitting in my toolbox.

Sorry, here's that comment, edited for clarity:

*When modified to be used as 914 transmission mounts, 911 engine mounts require the mounting holes in the ears to be filed into an oval shape or re-drilled, do not have the proper anti-rotation pins on the center sleeve, are close but not quite the same thickness, are not the original stiffness (the engine mounts are stiffer), and do not have the same appearance as original 914 transmission mounts, which can be an aesthetic issue in a fully-restored vehicle. However, modified 911 engine mounts were certainly a functional substitute until proper 914 transmission mounts were finally made available again from URO and Porsche OEM.

Here's an interesting data point, Dave: my engine is already mounted solid. As in metal-to-metal. In order to fit the dry sump pump in there, Tangerine had fabbed an engine mounting bracket out of steel plate. Pulled the drivetrain this week and noticed it yesterday...that might help to explain how one of the engine frame mount bolts on the outer end of the crossmember had come loose and the nut departed the car...

I'll go with the Wevos in back.

My contention is that on a race car, you nut-and-bolt the thing every event. This is one key way that a racer is different from a street car; it is gone through thoroughly very very frequently.

If you don't want to be checking all the nuts and bolts all the time, you'll need to use something that will absorb and damp vibrations.

Sounds like the Wevo type of mounts are a more appropriate option for you.

Solid mounts are absolutely not appropriate for a street car.

--DD

Thank you, Dave, I appreciate the advice.

First drive today after installation of New Motor Mounts, Transmission Mounts and Shifter Bushings. What an improvement, its a different car.

Transmission Mounts and Shifter Bushings were a no brainer but those Motor Mounts, aghhh but well worth it!

Next project, front suspenson bushings.

Excellent Ken, which motor and transmission mounts did you use?

Uro Tranny and Motor Mounts......