so anyway i'm bolting the exhaust up and i notice that the studs are broken on one cylinder....so i need to replace the studs.....

dad got the MAPP torch out ( woah) and i told him too hot.
went and bought a propane torch, heated the head up till the flame went out (gust of air) so around 5 minutes for both studs...they wont budge

is it kosher to buy a (x)MM drill bit, chop off the stud to level and drill and tap out to (x+1)mm?

i really need your help here......

Best to get it out with heat....use the MAPP gas, it won't melt the stud.....

How are you try to bust them loose?

I use a pair of vice grips, oven mitt for my hand and put turning pressure on the stud while heating it up.....it's the combination of heat AND torque that breaks them loose.

Drilling is the LAST resort.

white flame, not blue right???

I just lived through removing a twisted off a crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt.

It was a grade 5 hardened bolt and snapped off with about 125lbs of torque. Yes, it was my own damn fault.....

I used one of these and i'm sold on 'em. I soaked the bolt for a day before extraction.
Go slow, be patient, and follow the instructions.
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopCart..._CAT332_pg9.htm



Best of luck.

Oh, and you are heating the surrounding aluminum and not the stud, right?

Doesn't heating the stud make it tighter ?

yup....i'm heating the surround. You're correct....heating the steel stud will make things tighter instead of the desired effect....

done yet?

vice grips/oven mit/torch

do it. use the force.



dont want to see you posting until youve completed your task

AA

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jun 19 2005, 01:09 PM)

yup....i'm heating the surround. You're correct....heating the steel stud will make things tighter instead of the desired effect....

i'm sure you already know that but sometimes it's easier to brake them lose if you try to tighten it just a bit first, then try to back it out ...

Andy

i'm stressed. tried MAPP, propane, oven mitt, no oven mitt (oouch), doing it sideways straight up back ward forward, nothing......

will try tomorrow again.

Stay with it Britt! You aren't that far from done.... for a minute.




M

Another thread just suggested melting paraffin into the threads after heating. Brilliant solution if it works, as it appears it did.

QUOTE (RAR @ Jun 19 2005, 07:45 PM)

Another thread just suggested melting paraffin into the threads after heating. Brilliant solution if it works, as it appears it did.

how can wax defy gravity?

if im not mistaken...he is upside down under a car...

surface tension.. it works..

Slight void between two parts sucks.




M

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jun 19 2005, 10:58 PM)

QUOTE (RAR @ Jun 19 2005, 07:45 PM) Another thread just suggested melting paraffin into the threads after heating. Brilliant solution if it works, as it appears it did. how can wax defy gravity? if im not mistaken...he is upside down under a car...

was thinking the exact same thing. i am upside down and I'd be REALLY pissed if i got hot wax all over my face. but yeah i'm confused on this point too.

I could make alot of money by going to bars and showing everybody the gravity-defying wax trick.

It's called capillary action - it's the same reason liquid can travel up a rag soaking in it (like a wick in an oil lamp, for instance).

Here is an explanation

As far as wax on your face - you're on your own there

Sometimes you can take a center punch and give the stud a good smack to jar it. If you could obtain a syringe and you were fast, you could defy gravity and shoot the wax on the stud base.

Hot wax.....it melts with hot water (dutch boiler).

The Usual Sources make metric left-hand drills and stud extractors that do not just wedge the stud in tighter. sometimes drilling out the center of the stud relieves enough tension that it will simply screw itself out along with the drill bit.

Sears sells a set of screw extractors and the left-hand extractors - forget what cute name they call them buy (Bolt-Out maybe...) because i always just call them "Screw-Ups" - since that's what they're designed to fix...

Sears doesn't make them, they just repackage them under the Craftsman label - the OEM name is still on them - but i don't have one here to examine...

QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Jun 20 2005, 09:52 AM)

The Usual Sources make metric left-hand drills and stud extractors that do not just wedge the stud in tighter. sometimes drilling out the center of the stud relieves enough tension that it will simply screw itself out along with the drill bit. Sears sells a set of screw extractors and the left-hand extractors - forget what cute name they call them buy (Bolt-Out maybe...) because i always just call them "Screw-Ups" - since that's what they're designed to fix... Sears doesn't make them, they just repackage them under the Craftsman label - the OEM name is still on them - but i don't have one here to examine...

I think they are called "easy outs". I've used them many times with mixed success. They seem to break about 50% of the the time, especially when you are using the smaller ones. There are great when they work but a pain when they break (since they're hardened and will foil even the best drill bits)

Are there any threads left on the stud? If so, put a nut on the stud, and using a ox-acetelyne torch, weld the nut to the stud. Wait for it to cool, and then use a socket to unscrew the stud.

This can be done even if the stud is stripped. All you have to do is to get the nut over the stud and weld it on.


This has always worked for me.

Now fixing the head when the stud pulls the threads out, that is another story.


HELICOILS SUCK!!!!

QUOTE (Jakester @ Jun 20 2005, 02:02 PM)

I think they are called "easy outs"

no. they're not.
"Easy-Outs" aren't.
anything you wedge into the stud tend to make it stick better...

check this out...
DrillOut Screw and stud extractors

looks good. okay here's what i need help with:\

1)getting my car to start (again)
2)getting the studs out.

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jun 20 2005, 01:25 PM)

Are there any threads left on the stud? If so, put a nut on the stud, and using a ox-acetelyne torch, weld the nut to the stud. Wait for it to cool, and then use a socket to unscrew the stud. This can be done even if the stud is stripped. All you have to do is to get the nut over the stud and weld it on.

I have to agree with what Clay suggested .....I have done it many times! Once the nut is "welded" on, spray some kind of penetrating oil on the stud itself to cool it back off and try to keep most of the heat in the head. Also lightly tap on the end of the stud while it cools for about a minute, and then slowly twist the stud back and forth! Hopefully, it will come right out .

wow. well i'll do it and prove the vw guy wrong. then i'll laugh. well first, i'll take his 2.0 engine.