Hi everyone,

I'm starting to make plans to build my 1.7 into a 2056. It already has 1.8 heads and dual 40 Webers, so I'm hoping I can accomplish this on a tight budget (like $1500 ). I've been looking at the 2.0 cranks at DPR, which are actually offset ground 1.7-1.8 cranks. At around $300 shipped, it seems like a pretty good deal. Anyone have experience with these cranks? Thanks!

Why not a stock 2.0 crank?

Your budget, by the way, will buy you part of one head. You may be able to get the bottom end sorted for $1500, but spend money on your heads or its all wasted. You can build a very nice 2056 for about 5K, or a hand grenade for 1500.

Zach

Thanks for the response. From what I understand, my 1.8 heads will work reasonably well on a 2056. Now, grant it, they will no doubt benefit from refreshing or even entire rebuilds, but they could be run in stock form and flow decently well, correct? I know that big valves, plug relocation, and porting could all be done to maximize them for power, but hopefully decent stock 1.8 heads won't make the engine grenade-worthy. I've built several high performance motors but never a type 4, so this is new territory for me. I'm thorough and detail-oriented and I would like to do most of this engine build myself.

Following!

I'm in a similar situation, with a 1.8L and weber 40's that I want to build into a 2056. I would also like to keep the 1.8 heads, otherwise there will be a snowball effect of other changes required (tin, exhaust...)

All 2.0 cranks are offset ground, including the original Porsche ones.
1.8 heads will work but I would rebuild them anyway. Too much work will be wasted if not.
You don't have to do a $3000 rebuild. I'm sure you can find someone that has reasonable pricing.

I would use a stock 2.0 crank depending on the cost. They do seem to be pretty coveted items these days, and if it needed machine work (likely I would imagine?), it could get pretty pricey. If the DPR offset grind cranks are good quality then it opens up more options for people.

The heads on my 2056 (making about 145 HP on the dyno) came off a 1.7. 1.8 heads will work, not a problem, but you will need to work with them to get the most out of them. I had the heads done locally after telling the guy what I wanted and it was still about $2500 in parts and labor to get them done.

My engine is also using 1.8 intake runners, airbox (modified), plenum, etc. There is no issue with using 1.8 parts.

I will say this, were I to build this engine again, I'd buy new heads instead of rebuilding old ones.

Zach

Hmm, dpr website says they are reground from vw oem cranks, and they are all . 010-.020 undersize. I think that is a stock crank, yes?

You will spend at least $800 on a decent valve job on a set of type IV's. 1.8 or 1.7.



Save your money and get the best. Get the new castings and have HAM or a competent person do the work.

My .02

Offset-ground cranks mean you need new rods with smaller big-ends. I don't know how much those will cost you, but I bet they won't be free.

Might be better to pick up a 2.0 crank and rods together if you are going that route. Depends on what deals you can find, I suppose! Also note that 2-liter Bus crank and rods will work, as they are they same size as the 914 bits.

--DD

Well, I talked to DPR and they said the 2.0 cranks are offset ground from 1.7/1.8 cranks. He did say you’d have to order the correct .010-.010, .020-.020 bearings.



According to the person I talked to at DPR, their offset ground 2.0 crank uses 2.0 rods, with first or second cut bearing accommodation. Makes me think they must be welding on material to the journals.

Good to know about the bus crank and rods. One thing I haven’t seen yet in this thread is someone saying “I have a good 2.0 crank and rods that I’ll sell for $xxx. Would be interested to know the current value (perceived and actual!) of these parts. Back to my Pinot Noir.

,makes you wonder how they could offset grind and reharden the journals for that price for starters ,I've built heaps of T1 motors but not a lot of T4's IMO there are several different approaches from one to the other ,one has a stronger bottom end and the other cylinder head issues ,many other issues also.
A cheap build is that and no more,the main issue is the small details that make an average build are rather distant from one done right ,its about $$$ and time spent,anyone can box up a very average engine.

New counter weighted 2.0 L chrome moly crankshafts from AA Pistons $588.