Wanted to tighten up my side shift linkage starting with the bushings but noted that the rod head tapered screw was rusted. Rear linkage bar is also rusted where it inserts to the shift rod head. I've tried soaking with WD40, Liquid Plummer without success. Contemplated on applying heat with my propane torch but was worried about melting the bushing cup and other things in the linkage. Any thoughts?

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A brass drift may help. I've had them get stuck enough even when rust free that I can't pull the rod through without a little help.

You'll have to drill that tapered screw out. Get a replacement rear rod and coupler.

Liquid plumber or liquid wrench?

1- drain transmission.

2- disconnect the rod from the front (if you can, if you cant then disregard the rest)

3- Un bolt the shift console (two 13mm nuts) and remove the console, and shift rod as one piece. Then you can take to your bench and work on it.

To extract the set screws you will need heat, penetrating oil, dark magic, a young priest and an old priest, maybe screw extractors and a drill. May the force be with you.

I would shock the set screw with a proper fitting Allen on a socket with a ratchet wrench. If that does not work, heat it up on the car to try to avoid having to drill it out,. By all means you will have to save that rear shift head as they are not available new, hard to find used, and expensive if you do find one

A week ago I extracted the last of those little #@$%s I will ever have to do (on this car anyway). It required lots of heat, PB Blaster, a drill, and a square easy out but I got the sucker loose.

The reason it was my last is because when I bought my first 914 a hundred years ago, the very first repair job involved pulling one of the PITA cone screws out. After that, I took two M8 bolts to a machinist and had him turn cones on the ends. I think he charged me five bucks. I sold the car but kept the bolts so they will be going into this car when it is put back together.

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You might want to drill that bolt head for safety wire... The stock set-screws have a nylon nubbin in them that keeps it from vibrating loose.

--DD

I like to use a left handed drill bit when drilling out bolts. Many times when the flute catches, it will back the bolt/screw out, without an easy out.

Sounds like a PITA for what’s its worth. I mean the shifting is not that sloppy but can’t help compare it to my more modern Porsche. Besides, asking a young or old priest may be cost prohibitive.

But thanks for all the input. I will try some more pb blaster, some heat, power ratchet/socket with Allen tip. If set screw comes out then I still don’t know if the rod will budge.

If above fails, are there other remedies or upgrades I can do?

Good idea. I always just used a dab of blue locktite putting them in and never had one shake loose. But you can't be too careful.

those late model 914s really shift GREAT in stock form when the bushings and rods and shift console and shifter are up to par

Last time I used a tie rod remover like similar to this.
edit: ooops the inquiry is about the cone screw.
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J West sold bolts like the one bbrock had made up. They came with a jam nut. I think they are, or were, $5.

Your cone screw does not look ruined.
Heat the the entire area around the screw to near cherry red.
A propane torch might not do it. Find someone with an oxy/acetylene
set
Make sure your allen tool reaches fully into the cone screw. The screw will come out
with enough heat.
The heat will also free up the cup from the shift rod.
Wear gloves and eye protection.

That’s what our guys would do at the shop. Takes 5 minutes. Everyone has a map torch on their toolbox.