I just started shopping this but I want to drive my car but this pain is not as durable as the original I think, maybe its the clear coat not thick or hard enough or maybe my painter used a lower quality paint? I have 3 chips all my fault , something bumped or hit but this seems to be way too easily chipped. SO before I have one chip on front hood or back, I am want to do a clear wrap or clear bra , on the whole surface.
I just saw an episode of the Bitchin' Rides and they did a whole car. no idea what product the used but I cant afford to pay someone else to do this. So it will be a do it yourself project. and I spent too much on paint and body to have to do this again in a few years! and I want to drive the car on the road some with out worrying about every piece of sand or bug etc possibly causing a chip.

Anyone with experience doing this? please share your thoughts and experiences here!

Phil

if you google it you will get the thousands of pros and cons for each product but like anything, the more you pay, the better the product.

We send it out to a former employee who does a nice job. It takes a bit of practice to really make it look nice. Wide body 911's get hammered at the front of the rear flares.

A good friend of mine has been installing it on high end cars for years.
It does work well.

A few things to note:
Don't put it on white or light silver cars as it will yellow more quickly

Try to find an installer who doesn't just use the standard templates as these normally don't wrap around the edges

Avery film usually has less issues than 3M

If you put it on a car that has been repainted wait at least 6 moths before installing it. (de-gassing)

If you want to try and install it yourself there are quite a few little tricks to getting it right.

Wash the area with a high quality car wash without a wax additive

Prep the area with a full alcohol wipe or panel prep solution

In your sprayer use distilled water & alcohol with just a drop or so of Johnson baby shampoo.

Keep your hands and all surfaces dripping wet while installing

Use a heat gun around complex curves to get a little stretch.

Good luck!

I've had several cars done. The guy I've used is a consummate professional and has a client list of Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Porsches, BMW's and other very rare exotics.
I wouldn't consider doing his job after watching what goes into a 1st class wrap.

Another fellow who is an up and comer in the detailing business did this to his 1 Series
BMW for advertising purposes. His attention to detail is incredible.


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ask @StratPlayer . He's had one for a while now and it's difficult to see unless it's pointed out.

Don't over stretch especially on inside curves. Wrap but likely the same deal, my buddy touches in the center then works in 1/4's, 1/8ths. 1/16ths, etc. He's able to lay it down with hardly any stretching. He starts with an oversize piece and cuts it down roughly to shape as he goes. Likely needs a seam at the bottom of turn signal bucket.

Not too hard to DIY if you watch YT vids, but same time not as easy as it looks.

Great list of advice etc, all great comments. My paint was done in July so its been 6 months almost now so should be good to go. Don't get me wrong its a really nice paint job, as can be attested by anyone who saw the car at Okteenerfest or at Rare Shades, so I think this is a good idea to keep it really nice for a long time and I am considering a full wrap too. I might have mike the body and paint guy help me go back over it and make sure its spotless and the 2 small chips repaired before wrap is done. There are 2 companies I have seen advertising here at the Cars and Coffee, so I will discuss this with them too and get quotes. I think I can do it but if I am going that far , not just the front I may just buck up and pay for it. Will see, I might order the 3m product and try and do the rear deck lid and see how it goes.

Phil

DRPHIL914- I am with you. I intend to do a clear bra on my Six once it is ready. I will fully wrap the hood so it goes over the edges and there are no seams. Then look at the rest of the body for the obvious rock chip places as well. Maybe the A-pillars, door handle cups, door edges and maybe behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels. Oh, headlight and fog light lenses too. I have even considered doing the front bumper. Yeah, I may be going overboard, but for the effort that has been put into my car, a little PPF goes a long way. Also, if I decide i don't like a particular spot, just peel it off. I will definitely have it done while it is in Jim's care (Justice League) and before it starts to be driven.

I have had clear bra Paint protection on my last 6-7 cars and it really does work. Also, when done by a professional, the end result is really hard to detect unless you are standing right next to the car looking for it.

I am doing the bumper for sure as well. I have an early chrome 914/6 bumper I got from a local guy that was perfect, dentless and no rust, but it had a lot of those small nicks from stones over the years. was not necessary but I had it rechromed so I am going to do t 3m bumper guard which is I think a bit thicker than what goes on like a wrap. Glad you are doing that car, with all you are going thru to get it done now is the time to do it., well they say to wait for a few months so you might have to keep off the highway for a while. any updates or new paint pictures??

It makes chrome look foggy and the 3M bumper / light guard is thicker than it looks and hard to work with.

After I had my car painted I took it to clear bra and had them install a clear bra on the entire hood and headlight covers. Best money I ever spent.

My Cayman has the AutoX package on it, not 3M but some other kind.

Whole front inc lights, fronts of mirrors, inside of the door handles where you would scratch with finger nails, front of rear wheel arches where you get rocks and will possibly hit a cone.

Can barely tell it's there if you did not look close for the lines. Self heals. Takes wax great.

Cons:

Careful when you wax as it builds up at the lines and takes a bit more care to buff it out.
Peeling at the chin because CA cannot make gentle entrances to parking lots and my east coast ass does not always remember to pull in diagonally.

Truth:

I wish I did the whole car as it would have been good money spent.

Was told by an installer that the quality finish depends on the quality of the paint. Need all of the dents and dings out and chips refinished prior to putting on the clear or you'll be unhappy.

I've watched it done and some use a blade to cut the clear at the edge of the hood that I didn't like, and some wrap it around.

Mikey 914 was talking about selling the sheet for the hood a while back but think that got onto the back burner of importance.