Well, after exactly 2.5 miles of driving my 914-6 post purchase, I parked it to assess for bringing it up a notch. It ran and drove fine, paint is incredible, interior really nice. So naturally we pulled the engine and transmission. Yep, makes perfect sense.

Truly, the engine compartment was not up to standards of the rest of the car, wiring harness was a bit crunchy. (Sent it for rebuilding new yesterday.) Motor just looks tired, though just 2400 miles on it (over 7 years!). Original block with 2.2 pistons, 'T' cams, 'S' curve distributor, stock exhaust.

Carbs were gummed up and kinda loose, so they went to Eurometrix, who'll be finished next week.

Engine is in mondo need of detailing (my low skill specialty) though a 40 year Master Tech is ready to pounce on whatever's needed. He's already redone the calipers, lines, discs on all four corners.

So, other than the usual leaks and seals, what would you do while the engine and trans are sitting there looking all sad? Excited to hear your list!

Switch the T cams for E cams, proper venturi’s and jets for the change. It will wake the engine up.

Charlie

What Charlie said.

or at least fit the correct distributor, the "S" dizzy has the wrong advance for the T motor,you can still upgrade to larger venturies and jets.
What I did for my used 2.2T ;
front and rear crank seals,
intermediate shaft cover gasket,
thermostat ''o'' ring,
chain box cover gaskets,
added chain saver collars to chain tensioners,
check cam chain tension and guide ramps for wear,
check cam sprockets for wear,
resurface valve covers after setting valve clearances,
check head studs,
upgrade to 930 lower valve covers (optional),
check cam lobes and position of rocker shafts,
reseal the infamous triangle of leaks,
replace oil cooler seals,clean cooler,
check sump cover plate for distortion around bolt holes ( I replaced mine),
check and overhaul altenator if required,
replace inlet manifold gaskets,
clean out oil tank ,
clean whole engine over and over again till spotless.

May have missed something as I did this a few years back,good luck hopefully you won't have any bad issues.

Alternator, often overlooked...

So that list from Porschetub is pretty comprehensive. Couple of things to consider "while you're there":

- engine: replace the valve cover gaskets with the thicker silcone ones
- car: now you've got access, go through the fuel system and hoses; check integrity and replace where necessary

- Tony

If you do switch to the Turbo lower valve covers, be sure to have the ribs machine down so they can be removed once the engine is in the car. Obviously, adjust the valves while the engine is out. Also, carefully inspect the ‘hell hole’ under the battery for any signs of corrosion.

Fuel lines. Unless already stainless.

Check the condition of the rubber engine and trans mounts. Make sure inner trailing arm bolts are tight.

Wow, thanks SO much for this input. You've not let me down!

Charlie and Rgalla: Yes, I too agree. Checked with a couple of cam reprofilers and my tech about time and difficulty of install. Sadly, this mod is lower in priority to my desire for tail-to-sideshift conversion of about the same amount. I say 'sadly' because more power is a good thing. Gonna have to wait on this one.

Porschetub: BIG thanks. Sent 'your' now MY list to the tech who agrees. Is coming over today to assess, get parts list if we've missed anything. Far as the S dizzy, I neglected to mention a Pertronix and the S curve, which the engine builder says he matched to the T? (I'm not a tech in the least, so only parroting here, but he has been kind to correspond with me on this now oldish build that he actually remembered. He liked the build, and interestingly ALSO suggested E cams!)

Ferg: Ha! Was finally ahead on this one! Had it rebuilt early, and yes, it needed it.

Rertoracer and Georgerud: Indeed on both valve covers and fuel lines. My valve covers were already the turbo ones, apparently installed when the engine was out, because... <you know what's coming>

They wouldn't clear the suspension! I ground with a Dremel, but to no avail. Motor came out and my first mod was to have 5/16" machined off both sides. THANK YOU for reminding me and others of this requirement.

Hellhole has gotten full inspection, cleaning, and thankfully only had paint issues - metal work done nicely years prior - which are being done this week also. AGM battery is charging and ready to go in place of lead acid unit.

Effutuo: YES. Agreed, and on 'the list'.

Krieger: Thank you. New trans and engine mounts (solid rubber from Sierra Madre or Automobile Atlanta, I can't remember) ordered.

Now off to meet tech to go over your fabulous ideas. Side shift parts are also on the list if I don't think I'll screw up horribly in the conversion. I keep asking myself, 'Can I replace enough bushings and tighten enough clearances to make me NOT hate the tailshifter?' Waffling here.

Thanks again.

914-6 shift linkage is way better than 914-4 tailshift.

- Add bigger engine
- Add bigger brakes
- Add steel flares
- Add wider rims & tires

I am concerned that it may have been driven too much recently.
It’s advisable to put it on 4 jack stands for several years while you ponder things.
During that time, send every part of the car out for rebuild , plating, powder coating etc.
Obviously Andy’s list above needs to be done without question.

A lot of good suggestions already!

Consider adding a fuel pressure guage if none present.
Rain hats instead of stock air cleaner
Change Shift fork bushing
Inspect Accelerator linkage ends and balls and grease
Fully set up accelerator linkage with engine out of car, much easier
Consider Side shift double bushing as shown if continuing side shifter
I am sure I will think of more......


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yes - sort-of - but that spindly selector that goes up into the bottom of trans is prone to breaking off

- happened to me twice

- so i got meself a 914-4 sideshifter
(& sold the oem -6 trans to Gordon Luey long long time ago)

- inho the gearing difference is totally irrelevant in my use of the car & maybe "better" with a higher HP torque-ier engine

(even that basic 2.0 with recommended e-cams? - with which i emphatically agree)



i would not convert the -6 trans - just bag & keep it for when you auction the car for $200K numbers matching)

- the supply of sideshifters is vastly better than the supply of oem -6 transmissions (just in case ya break one doing hot-roddy stuff ) (- such as i done 2x back when i was racing the car)

Thank you a ton folks. Supremely helpful in many ways.

Chris, thanks for the help on the tail shift info. I've gotten all the bushings, mounts, reset the rods and shifter. Seems tight, but as we mentioned, I may hate it and change later. Also just ordered fuel lines from you as many suggested. Thanks!

LarryM - THANK you for your experienced report; I'll keep the tailshifter with new bushings at the moment (above) but if needed, will get a new side shifter and call it a day.

SirAndy - You would've busted my budget in the first 15 minutes! But relatedly, I actually discovered I do NOT have 'T' cams in the car...

The man who restored the car (3 owners back) confirmed he'd changed the cams when he went to 2.2 liter. Said the cam had an 'S' on it, but he was told was not a '911S', but Solex.

Photo to seek confirmation please. Is this a 'Solex' or an '911S'? Either way, I'm excited.

Lucky9146 - Thanks! Yes to rainhats, got em. Yes to shift fork bushing, coming. New bellcrank bushings for accelerator linkage and will definitely check for oiling. THANKS for the note on adjusting linkage early, appreciated!

"S" is for SOLEX camshaft.

Quick update - -

Though parts continue to arrive, my list of needed parts increases at the exact same rate. How does THAT happen?

Anyway, this weekend was a mild turning point (said he, fully confident I've just jinxed progress).

The carbs came back in their rebuilt glory. Upon opening the well-packed box, angel choirs began warming up. Jet Hot coated parts were already waiting. Several layers of delicate gasket sets stood at attention. My rebuilt alternator, new starter, powder coated intakes and fan were all in line.

I'd cleaned and painted a few parts in preparation also. By the way, whatever your polisher charges is worth it. Shaun at Tru 6 has done fuel lines, and I'm sending him a few more things. Cleaning - unless you're commercially 'set up' for that work - is just grueling, at least for me. Lots of contorting, enough blue towels to have started my own landfill, Simple Green flowing like the the Amazon, and dirt that has become one with my nails. Oh well.

We did the cam timing, valve set, various gaskets (THANK YOU ALL for your list input here!) and mock up for engine tin. Got a few things yet to arrive (oil seals and more) before we can move ahead.

Yet the progress thus far, starting with engine on removal day, moving toward progress from this weekend...

Update: As of yesterday, all the seals and gaskets except for one crush washer on an oil line (why is there always ONE?) and the sump gaskets are on.

Cut and threaded the plug wires in. Got a new wiring harness from Perry Kiehl (Iron Post Restorations) which was a work of art.

Still getting engine tin bits together, one piece must wait until it's off the engine stand to install. Alternator shroud, decal, and bolt orientation took more head time than deserved!

Thanks to Lucky9146 and his input on this. I'm telling you: 914world and great guys like Jim have been invaluable.

Getting there.

This week: Flywheel, fuel lines and linkage, oil cooler reinstall. (Had to wait on my decision to make the top duct removable. Original was fastened with rivets.)

Thanks again for all the input. Any comments - even if 'corrections' or suggestions - welcomed.

Thanks for the kind words and glad to help anytime. Is it just me or is that oil feed line on the front jutting out too far forward? I believe they are to be closely following the front of the cover down. Being a real 6 I am not sure but it looks like it may end up in the way? I have only the picture of mine as an example.
Looks totally awesome by the way.


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Excellent eye there, Lucky9146. It does seem to have an extra 90deg bend in - not sure why. But should not affect the flow to the tensioners unless its kinked at all.

I wouldn't suggest bending it back!

- Tony

Thanks Lucky. I've been looking at that engine so long that didn't even stand out so to speak. But yeah, now that you mention it, it appears to be trying to escape.

I made adjustments. Not as neatly tucked as yours (I don't believe the 2.0s were born with oil fed tensioners, right? So mine was an add-on I think. Seeking clarity from any who know.)



Uh, wheres' the 'too late now' emoticon when you need it!?!

I gently, ever so gently coaxed it back more into its little slot and reduced the profile. It just eased back so I didn't have to get all kinky with it. A good thing.

Thanks guys!

Yep, "Carrera" oil fed tensioners are an added upgrade. Original 6's were not oil fed. Been there, now have the upgrade.

I had installed the tin on the front on the engine while it was on the stand and ended up removing it so it could mount the bolts that hold it to the firewall. It was a bit of work to put the tin back on with the engine in place, but not too bad.

I'd buy and install Chris Foley's metal fuel lines and replace the rubber fuels lines at each end.

Also, I have a JWest Rennshift shifter and Patrick Motorsports gear shift rod bearing kit. Mine now shifts better than it ever did.

Been a little while since last posting, mainly due to the ever-lengthening list of "while you're in there" additions. Question: WILL IT EVER END?

Anyway, since I'm not in a huge hurry (though Spring is tempting me more every day) a few tasks have crept in, many completed, and project 'to do' shelf is getting emptier. My sockets are almost always turning clockwise.

Some bits that weren't even considered when I started this include...

1) My interior fell out: When you pull the shifter from the engine/trans, you trick yourself into thinking alls well. Then you stare at the ceiling at night knowing all the shifter bushings are shot (and they were). So you pull the console. To get to things better, you pull the seats. Then when your head is 3 inches from your brake pedal, you notice the pedal bushings look weird, but you're trying to focus!

Then you realize that this car has all the sound deadening of beer can with rocks in it, so you decide you'd like to not lose any more hearing and do some insulation. With a 14-6, the engine is about 3 cm from your shoulder blades and buttocks region, so you up the ante for some heat insulation also.

Soon after, you look at the back of your backpad cushion and realize the 'hooks' to hold it on the passenger side (of a fixed seat! can we get any respect!) are completely missing. Guess the PO wanted it to move some, so he could claim it had adjustment. So you epoxy in an aluminum bar, rivet it too because you're OCD. Then you seal it with Flex Seal. <--I really like this product. Naturally, you clean all the vinyl - twice - and reglue the back edges, sticking yourself with several ancient and sharp staples in the process.

And of course, you MUST wash the carpet, preferably in your side load washing machine your wife swears is worth it even though it was 4 times more than the other one. So you time this "event" when she's at a 3-day conference. Totally coincidental.

Next thing you know, the pedal bushings, springs, pads are all kinda crappy looking. When your face is inside the tunnel and you're trying to remember your Chiropractor's number, you see acorns. Lots of acorns. Since you rarely snack while sucking on the brake pedal, you realize someone else did this. "Mice... who learned eating habits from squirrels" or something. I vacuumed 3,800 (estimate) acorns and enough sand (from previous resto sand blasting) to have made a nice beach. Now I know why my shifter bushings were worse than normal.

And so it goes. With - you guessed it - more to come!

By the way, I always appreciate the comments, suggestions from this forum. You've no idea how much I've learned here, and the encouragement counts for plenty.

While you have the shifter out, flip it over and examine the 1st/rev detent plate. It should have a clean straight edge. Also check the contact spot on the lever.

All absolutely necessary items that needed attention. Great work and you will sleep better at night.

I guess I should read the whole thread before commenting.

I had premature ejaculation of my thoughts on your cams. Your Solex(s)? should be just right for the engine.

Bitchin car.

Great attention to detail, this is going to be one very nice car! Of course starting off with one that didn't need a paint job and total restoration is a real plus and makes doing all the little bits and improvements much more enjoyable and rewarding. Keep at it and let's see more posts!