QUOTE(Rob-O @ Feb 26 2019, 10:36 AM)
Not sure which relay the first one is. There are several on the fuse panel (have to drop the fuse panel in order to see them). Drops the fuse panel (two screws) and see what’s missing a relay.
The second MAY be the block for the intermittent wipers. The intermittent wipers were an option that not all cars had. The absence of a relay there wouldn’t affect the operation of the wipers, just the intermittent function.
I don’t recall the block having 9 spots, though. Should be easy enough to check the 914 wiring diagram for you year and track it down based on the color of the wires, can’t see them (or actual numbers of wires) in this pic.
The wipers are a long job to get to. Gas tank comes out, then the fresh air box. Then you can pull the windshield wiper assembly. There is a small rubber isolator that attaches from the wiper frame to the firewall. Some people miss that and break it when removing the assembly. It’s probably dried out and needs to be replaced anyways. 914Rubber has them.
The usual culprit to slow or non-running wipers is that the shafts seize up inside the tube that they pass through in the assembly frame. If they’ve never been serviced that grease is minimum 43 years old. Clean all the old grease out, regrease and reassemble. If you’re really ambitious the wiper motor itself has a small gear set in it. Pull the triangular shaped cover and clean and regrease that as well.
BTW I see you’re in Dallas. I think Zim’s is having a 914 get together in April.
Incredibly helpful thank you so much! I’ve gone ahead and purchased a used working wiper assembly from a 914’r here and will do the gas tank removal and fresh air box removal. The Evap was removed from this car before I bought it so I purchased a new box and carbon media and I’m going to knock that out at the same time. It looks like the fuel lines were previously modified so that’s turned out to be another issue as well. The wife doesn’t like the gas smell in the garage haha!!
I’m going to go ahead and order the rubber isolator you suggested because I’m sure it’ll turn out to be dry rotted. If you saw any of my earlier posts I did pick up a freshly rebuilt 2056cc 2.0 to replace the 1.7L I have in this car now. The 1.7L runs great but I’m looking forward to this 2.0. Also picked up another rebuilt side shift transmission and a new Sachs clutch. Never installed a clutch so this should be interesting. Between the Haynes manual, YouTube, and everyone here I’m hopeful I’ll figure that out. Lucky for me the new engine came with a free 75’ donor 914 that’s in rather tempting condition but in the meantime I’ve moved it to my storage while I’m working on this Z-Geen 73’. I’ve got a feeling the 75’ will be the 914 that ends up stripped and restored down to the bolt. As soon as I learn the welding skills it’s on. Just a feeling
Anyway, I’m “attempting” my first engine swap in the coming weeks and if I’ve got a running car I’d love to meet up in April. Good chance I’ll be looking for someone local to provide some insight on making sure I’ve checked all the boxes before I turn the ignition on the engine swap. - cheers!