I just got word from my local Grismer tire/service center that they will not perform my aligment. They took readings a few weeks ago and ordered the rear shims, and now have cold feet to do the job. Dang....I now must go to the Porsche Dealer in town, perhaps this will be a good thing, however, I once again was hoping to get it out and do some driving this week end.

Oh well, at least they did not fuck it up !

If they got the shims, buy them and do a rough one yourself. You can get to within a 64th of an inch if careful. Make sure to weight the driver's seat with what you weigh. When you can find a shop that will do the alignment more precise then have them do it. On the rear the shims are for camber and toe is adjusted by moving the outer mount front/rear.

If you're a "hands on" person, by all means, do it yourself. If you're patient and methodical, you can be quite accurate as John says.

Remember the rear toe must be set to the center line of your chassis. Pelican has some DIY articles.

We need a good DIY alignment thread. Maybe this is it.

You can do it your self for the same $ as having it done and have the equipment for the next time.

Download: http://www.smartracingproducts.com/pdfdocs...ings_manual.pdf

This tells you how to set-up the area and level the car. It also describes how to measure the toe-in. You can buy thier String Alignment system or make one out of 1/2"conduit. The only critical thing is the strings have to be the same distance apart. I mount the condit to a bracket screwed to the holes where the license plate goes.

Then you need a Caster/Camber gauge. I use the Longacre one with the magnetic adaptor. By removing the "hubcap "on the wheel the gauige can be held against thewheel for the measurment. Smart Racing also sells a gauge.

Other places on the Smart Racing site will explain and describe all the alignment info you will need.

Ken

After THAT is done...see if you get some scales and do a corner balance.