I bought this 2056 engine from a forum member who rebuilt it about 5000 miles ago.
It's been sitting without oil in my climate controlled garage for the last 3 years. It's now in the car.

It turns over by hand. It does not currently have oil in it.

Am I safe to fill with regular Mobil1 and start as usual, or should I do something special to lubricate the cylinders prior to filling with Mobil1?

Usually good idea to build oil pressure before firing it (remove coil plug wire).

Much easier if you also remove the sparkplugs..

yes I plan to do that; just wondering if I should fill with Marvel Mystery oil first, or spray some sort of lubricant into the cylinders?
Or just fill it up with Mobil1, build oil pressure, and then fire it up?

Not sure about Mobile1. No synthetic oils allowed. Use Old fashion oil with Zinc

why no synthetics?

Rotella.

IMHO it is not synthetic per say but that you need high zinc for the flat tappet engines.
I don't know of any synthetic that has the high zinc needed.
High zinc is bad for catalytic converters and most all of the newer oils don't have zinc or very low levels per government mandate.

Jim

Use Valvoline 20W50 VR1. I use it in my 914 with 2056 and in my '86 930. VR1 has zinc in it.

thanks all

YEah, stick with the Brad Penn racing oil or the Valvolene VR1. Do not use Mobile1.

Also, don't turn the engine by hand while its dry. You really want that oil film between all the moving parts.

If you have an oil cooler (and you might need one for a 2056) it will take a lot of cranking to get oil pressure. Good luck!

Zach

When my engine has been sitting I usually use the key to get it started but I have had to push start it once or twice

You want a high zinc oil like Brad Penn, Driven, or Valvoline racing. Mobil1 is no longer a good oil for a metal to metal lifter engine.

follow up post;
filled the engine with oil and a zinc additive, hooked up the oil pressure sensor - gauge light turns green without cranking the engine. removed spark plugs, disconnected fuel pump wire.

cranked it about 4 times for 5-10 seconds each; gauge light never went off.
What's wrong??

I do not have an external oil cooler. the gauge is wired correctly as far as I know (pressure sender is a 2 pole unit). I do not have an oil pressure gauge - only the warning light.

so.....possibilities:
1. sender is not wired correctly? (the green/red oil pressure wire is attached to G pole on the sender)
2. oil pickup is clogged?? how would I check this?
3. I just need to keep cranking the engine over??

thoughts? help please

keep cranking. dry engine, empty filter, its gonna take some to get pressure.

+1

So long as it is spinning freely and sounds OK keep spinning it. May take 60-90 seconds.

Not sure it matters but on a two pole sender G is for a gauge and WK is for the warning light.

Have someone video the startup and post it.

Joe Gibbs Driven DT50 oil, 15/50, high zinc. Designed for air cooled engines. Mark

success! wired the sender correctly for the warning light, cranked the engine for about 45 seconds, and the light finally went off.

next step is filling the gas tank, hooking up the fuel pump, and starting it up

Share the video when you do!

Great!

Excellent news