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shane
Hi everyone, getting new brake hoses is next on my long list of parts. Is there a recommended brand to buy? I noticed Meyle, ATE$$$, Beck Arnley, Bosch just to name a few. Was mostly concerned about the quality of the fittings on the ends and corrosion maybe with the less expensive ones.
mark04usa
Ate are the best fit and quality I have found. Makes sense, as Teves
made the original brake system in our cars.
bbrock
I just bought whatever PMB Performance sells because I knew they wouldn't sell junk. I didn't think they were outrageously expensive and they look like good quality and fit perfectly.
mepstein
Does anything go on the threads that connect the hardline to the soft line. Just wondering.
shane
Good advice thanks, I’m thinking you need to put nothing on the threads as far as leaks go cause it’s a compression connection (threads don’t make the seal). But something to prevent corrosion or if your connecting SS brake lines with SS fittings to anything non SS maybe anti-seize compound would be smart.
porschetub
QUOTE(shane @ Mar 12 2019, 05:50 PM) *

Good advice thanks, I’m thinking you need to put nothing on the threads as far as leaks go cause it’s a compression connection (threads don’t make the seal). But something to prevent corrosion or if your connecting SS brake lines with SS fittings to anything non SS maybe anti-seize compound would be smart.


My car had bad flexible brake lines on calipers (Brembo conversion),local company did a great job making new ones with correct hose and fitting,not expensive ,I'am not a real fan of Meyle stuff as it appears they do a lot of stuff out of China,personally had issues with parts from that brand.
mgphoto
QUOTE(shane @ Mar 11 2019, 08:50 PM) *

Good advice thanks, I’m thinking you need to put nothing on the threads as far as leaks go cause it’s a compression connection (threads don’t make the seal). But something to prevent corrosion or if your connecting SS brake lines with SS fittings to anything non SS maybe anti-seize compound would be smart.


Don't put anything on the threads, the replacement interval for the soft brake lines is short, corrosion shouldn't be an issue, if it is, the chassis is much more susceptible to rust and you have bigger problems.

Use flare nut wrenches when working on brake lines. Also if you can use a Power Bleeder, it can make life a lot easier when working on the brakes alone.
Cairo94507
Eric at PMB is my brake guy. Actually, he does a lot more than brakes. He is an excellent resource and does not sell low quality stuff. Additionally, I like to buy from our supporters in this community. beerchug.gif
mepstein
QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Mar 12 2019, 10:13 AM) *

Eric at PMB is my brake guy. Actually, he does a lot more than brakes. He is an excellent resource and does not sell low quality stuff. Additionally, I like to buy from our supporters in this community. beerchug.gif


agree.gif X10


I'm packing up a couple sets today to send for restoration. Wouldn't think of going anywhere else. Wouldn't want to either. beerchug.gif
burton73
QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Mar 12 2019, 07:13 AM) *

Eric at PMB is my brake guy. Actually, he does a lot more than brakes. He is an excellent resource and does not sell low quality stuff. Additionally, I like to buy from our supporters in this community. beerchug.gif



agree.gif

Bob B
rgalla9146
I put a light bit of antiseize on the inside and the outside of
the hard brake line nuts. This will prevent the line from seizing inside the nut and the
nut from seizing in the caliper.
Also, clip the hose off the rear line as close to the chassis mount as possible. Then use a deep 14mm socket and 10" extension
to spin the old hose end off the hard line nut. Hold the nut with a six side 11mm line wrench
This will save a difficult struggle in confined space
marksteinhilber
QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ Mar 12 2019, 01:19 PM) *

I put a light bit of antiseize on the inside and the outside of
the hard brake line nuts. This will prevent the line from seizing inside the nut and the
nut from seizing in the caliper.
Also, clip the hose off the rear line as close to the chassis mount as possible. Then use a deep 14mm socket and 10" extension
to spin the old hose end off the hard line nut. Hold the nut with a six side 11mm line wrench
This will save a difficult struggle in confined space

This is great advice on how to deal with old rusted soft lines. To reiterate, cut old rubber line close to the crimp fitting so a six sided deep socket will slide over it. Use the flare wrench on the other side so you can exert enough force to break the connection at these fittings.
dangrouche
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-br...cRoCY1AQAvD_BwE

FCP Euro has stainless for $59 shipped
90quattrocoupe
I have to disagree with not using anti-seize on brake lines. I have been using copper anti-seize for years on the male fittings. I coat the upper half of the male line and then put it on the female end. I feel this prevents water from seeping into the joint. Over the years I have rebuilt a lot of brake calipers and have always done this.
I rebuild brakes for a local VW rally car(Girlings). I have never had a problem with contamination. Considering the amount of water and dirt a rally car is exposed to, it has been a life saver when taking these brake calipers and brake lines apart.
On brakes I have removed from Pick-a-Parts, I have always found corrosion in the female parts of the brake lines and in the female part on the calipers.

Greg W.
rgalla9146
QUOTE(mgphoto @ Mar 12 2019, 09:57 AM) *

QUOTE(shane @ Mar 11 2019, 08:50 PM) *

Good advice thanks, I’m thinking you need to put nothing on the threads as far as leaks go cause it’s a compression connection (threads don’t make the seal). But something to prevent corrosion or if your connecting SS brake lines with SS fittings to anything non SS maybe anti-seize compound would be smart.


Don't put anything on the threads, the replacement interval for the soft brake lines is short, corrosion shouldn't be an issue, if it is, the chassis is much more susceptible to rust and you have bigger problems.

Use flare nut wrenches when working on brake lines. Also if you can use a Power Bleeder, it can make life a lot easier when working on the brakes alone.



I disagree. Replacement interval for a soft line is long. Usually when a caliper locks up or can not be bled.
Using antiseize may save frustration on your own car.
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