My 74 bumper rusted around the tits

I found out when I bumped it with my knee and it fell off and hit my foot

So I bought an earlier titless bumper that is orange

I'll be painting it satin black with a spray can

What grit should I sand it with so the new paint gets some bite?

Should I prime it?

If so, what type of primer? Should I sand the primer? If so, what grit?

Thanks

Scott

make sure that you spray with worth black satin trim paint after thoroughly sanding with wet or dry sand paper with plenty of water about 400 grit if the bumper is smooth

thanks

the bumper is so smooth it is a shame to paint it

I habitually go to too fine a grit, hence the question

How many cans should I buy to do both bumpers (have a replacement front too), rockers, both valences and a ducktail?

#400 usually gives paint the proper "tooth".
For that many pieces, I would buy a can and have it sprayed with a real spay gun.

Hard to say without knowing what your goal is and what the orange bumper looks like now, but...

The best choice is to have a body shop refinish it.

Second best, have the bumper sand blasted, Then do whatever body work is necessary, spray it with a couple of coats of catalyzed high build primer, sand with 400 dry (with a block where ever possible), then a coat of catalyzed sealer, then whatever color you have picked (wet on wet with the sealer).

Third best, sand the bumper with 180 grit (with a block where possible), feather out any chips in the original paint, fill any dings and block them with 180, spray several heavy coats of rattle can high build primer (I like SEM products), sand with 400 dry (with a block), apply your rattle can color (I like SEM Trim Black)

I did both my valences, the rocker covers, and the mesh in the engine grill. It took a quart of SEM Trim Black thinned 1/1 with urethane reducer...so 1/2 gallon of product. Applied with an HVLP gun.

You'll go broke buying enough spray cans to do what you want to do.

Any courser than 400 and the sanding scratches will show through the color coat.

I have access to compressor and HVLP guns and can spray fairly well so that is a possibility

If I'm going to break out a gun, what can I use on the top?

Spray cans I can use at home and do one piece at a time

The car is a 30 footer, so I am not worried about perfection or long term durability as I'd like to repaint the car in the next 5 years or so and will readdress it then

Rattle cans are so wasteful of paint that I think you will be way ahead with a quart - $45 of paint rather than 4 or 5 of the $20 rattle cans. You may want to freshen up your gauge panel, steering wheel and other small parts.

Don't use standard rattle can paint. It will chip and flake easily and, it will not wash well. Get any grime on it and the finish will change as you rub it off etc.

If you need to rattle can, call your local automotive paint supplier and ask if they have 2K cans with hardener. This will get you a proper hardened automotive paint in the spray can convenience.

If you have a Tractor Supply near by; $19 qt Black, $16 pt reducer, $9 1/2pt urethane hardener. SEM has "Hot Rod Black" kit online for ~$50 which includes 1qt paint, 1/2 pt reducer, 1/2 pt hardener.

Oh and my Vitaloni's need to be painted too, and I want to black out the windshield and sail trim

NAPA sells this type of paint. It's pricey at $25ish/can but it comes out nice. I did my Westfalia's wheels with it.

If you really want to rattle can it, assuming cheaply, then Rustoleum can be had locally and you can get more easily.

Down side is you can't spray real car paint over spray paint so it will all have to come off before the 'good' paint job.