After way too many hours on this I'm out of ideas. Yes, I've searched and it looks like struggling with the installation of the main targa seal is part of the game but it is possible. That has not been my experience. I got the right a-pillar portion installed by sliding it down from the top although everything I've read said that wouldn't work and to seat the inside lip in the channel and work the outer lip into the trim with a suitable tool. So far so good and off to the left side. Nothing and I mean nothing works. Tried sliding from the top and it binds about a third of the way in and will go no further. I've already examined the track for dings and crud and it's clean and mostly straight. So I give up on that idea and decide OK, let's do the one lip at a time thing. I can't get it to start using anything I try. I have flat nylon tools, screwdrivers, putty knives, you name. it.

I've heard it alluded to that there are pictures and/or videos of how the #%^& to do this but I can't find them.

Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated...

Sex lube, water soluble.
ie: Astro Glide

Glycerin is your friend. Careful to not tear the corners.

I tried silicone paste - is water-based stuff any better? And using which method? Slide it in from the top or work it in one lip at a time?

This thread sounds a lot dirtier than it really is...

Most silicone paste have petroleum additives which will cause rubber to swell. Try 3M Dry Silicone spray and don't be bashful with it

I was able to do it by pushing slowly and steadily with the help of Joy soap.

I added heat from a hair drier to make it a bit more flexible. Don't use heat gun. It is too easy to get it too hot and tear. Takes longer to get warm but those things are expensive too mess up.

Buy the big container of glycerin at Riteaid. It doesn't go bad. 'Paint' both the rubber part and surface the item will be place upon. Bring the seal into a warm room before installing.

it needs to fit tightly to seal, silicone grease by Wurth, first straighten out the factory pinches in the two windshield frame gutters, then line up the horizontal blocks to align with the two top side seals, then cinch onto the ledge with a soft rubber hammer, make sure that it is aligned carefully and do not cut!

We do it a little differently. You can install the corner block in with the back edge in the inside track. Push about 1" into the back side an then (carefully) push the front lip of the vertical into it's track. Continue to work you way down pushing the back edge in then the front. It takes a little time, but is WAY easier than trying to pull it through.
Repeat on the opposite side then push the upper section onto the top of the windshield area.

Yes it's a pain, but corners, sides, top.


Then Beer

Thought I'd update this. It's in. I ended up using the "Mikey Method" on the left hand vertical piece. I was able to slide in the right side with a lot of pushing, pulling and coaxing but the left side would invariably bind about a third of the way in. Given the choice I prefer the slide it in method as it seems less likely do damage the new seal.

I'm assuming I need to trim the vertical legs to match the rubber wing window blocks? Utility knife?

Things I learned:

• This is not a quick job - at least not for me. I suppose it's like most things, the more you do the easier it gets.

• You will swear and sweat and your fingers will hurt during and afterward.

• You'll be afraid that all of the pulling, pushing, poking, etc. will destroy your new expensive seal.

• Glycerin is not readily available at all drug stores - I went to Walgreens because that's what's here.

• Water-based "personal lubricant" works well and does seem to be easier to find.

• You may have a somewhat awkward conversation with the young pharmacy employee about the relative merits of glycerin versus sex lube.

• You will probably need a beer break somewhere in the process and another one afterward while you put away the 973 various tools you got out because "that might be just the perfect tool!"

Thanks again for all of the suggestions!

Yes ,
not a super easy job. Looks simplier that it is.
To cut the bottoms. Close the door enough the overrun touches the seal on the door.
Mark with an ink pin.
Then using an extendable utility knife (with break off blades) extend it out 2" or so. Using soapy water to keep the blade lubricated, cut squarely just below the line.
If you keep the blade lubricated you will be surprised how easy the rubber cuts. It will slice through skin also as easy so be careful.
This will make a sea between the door and the pillar tight and help keep water out, and we all need that.

Also you noted the pulling and prodding. Don't worry all of our seals are fully bonded and ours even have the metal co molded into the rubber.

This was a problem on an earlier version.

Reviving this thread, as I'm working on this later today. @Mikey914 it seems others are using various lubricants, do you recommend doing the same and if so, which?

Just my 2 cents - Porsche recommended glycerine for general maintenance of the natural rubber seals to keep them soft and supple so that is what I use. I'm not saying something better hasn't come along in the last 50 years or that glycerine will work to "nourish" whatever rubber compounds that 914Rubber uses, but I've had no complaints with it.

I saw a recent video where Matt from 914Rubber installed Main Seal on his car.

Now, I can't find it.

Oscar

That would be incredibly useful. Seems like this part of the project is a pain in the ass, if it doesn't surface and I'm successful with the first side, I volunteer to make a video showing the 914rubber method on the following side.

@RiqueMar


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ui-GSfUS7ak




Oscar

They make it look so easy!

I'll be doing this seal in a few weeks. I got my front main targa seal from 914 Rubber in 2018. It looks like alot of grunting and patience to install. I'll let you all know how it went when finished.

Here's my experience:

I thought I 'd save money and buy an aftermarket seal. Spent all weekend pushing and grunting to get the seal down the channels. Even enlisted neighbors to help with the project.
Turns out someone didn't pay close attention to how the corners were manufactured-they would never fit into the corner tabs.
Ended up paying the big bucks and ordering the genuine German seal. Brought it home, and still in my office attire, I thought I make sure it would fit. As it turned out, I had it installed in 15 minutes! All still in my office attire!
From my measurements, I could now see the dimensions of the aftermarket part were all off. When I returned the aftermarket part I got a store credit for pennies on the dollar.
So, the moral of my tale is this: if it doesn't fit right away it will probably never fit right. I wish I had initially spent the bucks on the genuine Porsche part.

I remember the first time I worked on it, I had all the same frustration with it and thought it wasn't possible.

Now, for whatever reason, I can get the seal in and out easy peasey.

Problem I've got is the factory seal I bought 10~ years ago doesn't let the doors close (no matter what I've tried, with larger adjustment holes in the doors, loose trim holders, and more) and is now separating between two "sections" at the top of the A-pillar on the right side. Increasingly tempted to try the 914Rubber seal, which I hear has a better durometer than the seals offered by Porsche.

In any event, I think you gain muscle memory with these...it's the gain that's painful.

Watch the video.
The real key is that you DO NOT pull the sides through the channel. I can install one in a little less than an hour, only because I'm OCD with cutting the bottom to fit perfectly. In all fairness it gets much easier after you have done it a few times. The breakaway knife and soapy water to cut the bottom where it touches the triangle window seal make it easy. I cut it a little longer than I think I need it an shave it until I get a perfect fit.

Instructions were great! Took me about 1.5 hours to complete. Thank you all

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Congrats!

That looks great, nice job, I'll be tackling this soon. Great pictures of complete job.

I was able to do mine with out too much drama. Not easy but its in and working great...

Replacing mine after ignoring for 10 years. I never drove it when it rained, only on nice days. Anyways, you can see the tab is gone (both sides). What impact will that have when installing the new seal? Also, I do not have the screw. What size should I get to replace?

I'm guessing it is easier to replace the main targa seal first then the lower seal, yes?

Thanks!

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So what you are saying is I need more 914s.

The original part has a slot in the top corners for the tabs at the top of the aluminum channel. Most all of the reproduction and so called OEM parts I've seen do not have this slot. Being able to slide that tab in the corner blocks allows to adjust that part of the seal a little by bending the aluminum tab.

Even f you are missing the tab, you can make adjustments by anchoring the corners with the screw that holds it and starting the section on the track side and pulling to set the angle where it's correct before doing the entire track.
Mark

Thanks! I was thinking the same but knowing I have never done this, thought I would ask.

I would highly recommend a water based lubricant and avoid silicone grease. There is no solvent for silicone grease and it can cause problems in later paint processes. Many paint and injection molding operators prohibit it in the building.

Got the top seal in. I think it turned out nice. Still need to find the right sized screws for the ends.

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Thanks for all of the tips!

I’ll source those this week and drop you some if you PM me your address.
I’m thinking I should just include with the seal

Pulled the Porsche Classic seal yesterday, which was in worse condition than it looked to be after 10~ years of very light service, prepped/cleaned the guide trims, and am about to run this gauntlet.

Appreciate all of the inputs here, and it's hard to overstate how much this forum promotes and aids 914 ownership, @SirAndy . So, thank you!

Did the @mikey914 method this evening and it was not that bad once you develop a rhythm. Tabs were missing on mine. Went for it anyways. 2 hrs and done. Was fortunate my windshield is out as a quick clamp came in handy to pull the rubber tight into the small radius section at the top which was the tough part. Tool of choice was an old painters scraper dulled down on the edge. Used the square pointed corner to push and feed the rubber into the outer channel edge small bites at a time. Glycerin for the lube. Thank you all for the posts on this thread.

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It's not really a difficult seal to install, it just takes more time than you think it should and lots of patience. It is not fun, but you do get a sense of accomplishment when you are done. 2-3 hours is a normal range, you are on the low side ...good job!

[quote name='Chi-town' date='Mar 28 2019, 07:40 PM' post='2700785']
Most silicone paste have petroleum additives which will cause rubber to swell. Try 3M Dry Silicone spray and don't be bashful with it
[/quo
Hello Chi-town....have been thinking of you and worrying about you....you just disappeared for a long time and so glad you are back...hope to catch up soon....looking for a subi for my son...look forward to catching up..
gg