Hi everyone.

(1974 1.8)

So, I've noticed over the past couple weeks that slowly 1st gear and reverse are becoming harder to get into without it grinding a little. I'm wondering if something is just out of alignment? Ideas?

Thanks!

Mike

Start with clutch adjustment Also, check for clutch cable tube broken loose from mounts, and check trans oil level while you're there.

+1

Agree with the clutch first issue.

As a matter of information, when I assembled my 914-6 3.0 up to the Kennedy Engineering (KEP) stage II clutch, I could not get anything but nashing and grinding at the onset. 914Toy (Keith) and I called a fellow teener in LA and he said we needed to change things a little. A little change goes a long way. So, get to your change purse and Drop dime.

He said we should file the edges off of one thin dime and press it in to the throw out fork pivot hole then add the white plastic bushing and reset the clutch cable lash to spec. Suddenly and for the last several thousand miles, not a problem.

The dime did it.

And because of the play in the cable threads, I will never install a throw-out fork without the dime therein. If it is too much, just adjust your nuts. Your two 11mm nuts on the cable. Properly adjusted, your ride will adjust all other nuts to proper torque due to acceleration and lateral G-force.

Sounds like an engine out cure, eh what?

Just to add, this happens a lot and the easy thing to try first is to Shift to 2nd before shifting down to 1st which usually helps stop the grinding. Also, before coming to a stop such as when coming to a full stop at a red light, down gear to 2nd and with the clutch peddle still depressed then shift down to first and keep the clutch peddle depressed until ready to continue driving. Not the best fix but easiest thing to do with out making a mechanical adjustment. I do this and found the problem with the grinding actually stopped after a while?

Replace the thin little pivot retaining clip. It's cheap and easy now.

I like the "dime" trick which is like the similar thickness washer under the pivot ball. There seems to be a little more information that could help in adjustment of Cable/hydraulic connections. How far does the pivot arm move to engage the throw-out bearing from the engine side? What is the total movement needed to move the throw-out bearing to full engagement with regards to the shift fork end connector?

In doing the conversions for shifter regarding 3.2 Porsche engine, we put in a washer behind the pivot ball and tested by mounting the transmission and connecting the shift cable. Watch the angle of attack and movement of the clutch fork, once we had an engagement of 1/8 to 1/4 of inch we completed the build.

It seems to be a re-occurring problem which does not have a complete procedure and documentation showing the entire process in detail. This may not be the thread to bring out what seems to be an endless running problem that should be documented and completed in detail.

This is my observation and personal feeling; unfortunately I do not have the time or energy for this task.

Steve

You guys are awesome - thanks everyone!! Looks like I'll have plenty to keep me busy this weekend~!

I'll keep you posted.