What to keep the car 4 lug fuchs

But i honestly dont know much about
914 suspension philosophy or even what parts i need or where to start. I have really studied the elephant racing suspension builder . but before i pull the trigger on something that expensive i wanted to check here

Car is only driven on street

What do i need
And what kinda budget will i need

I already have new rear springs yet to be installed
But thats all

Depends on how deep you go and what components you decide upon. Balljoints, tie rods, alignment/corner bal? $1.2k?

suspension should be good, I would test it first, the old bounce test on the shocks, the height test on the rear springs. All you should really need is a set of springs, and then front Strut inserts, rear shocks

optionally ball joints, tie rods sway bar bushings (if so equipped) rear shock bushings, Never replace the front and rear a arm bushings unless they are totally worn out, very hard to do and a lot of labor

for street driving. Maybe u can just ask member here for wtb good used front inserts and rear struts (since u have new spring already) like bilstein or koni. Just need to borrow free loaner spring compression from pepboys or oreily’s.
Easy to replace them. maybe 3 hours or one morning with lots of relaxation during replacement will do.

Im guessing i will have to go deep because
Nothing has been serviced on the suspension in at least 10 years .rear bottoms out often
And front is bone crushing hard as a rock
But i can handle 1200 hundred

https://www.elephantracing.com/914-suspension-builder/

why don't you start by telling us what you have to start with and what you're trying to accomplish?
I replaced every single suspension item but my car is a total restoration

I'm just finishing the complete suspension rebuild on my resto (getting new tires this week ) My rough guess is I have about $1.5K in parts in it not counting the tires. Here's what I put in and the sources:

- A-arm bushings - 914Rubber

- Rear trailing arm bushings - 914Rubber (these are the hard bushings. Elephant Racing has the only OEM type rubber bushings I know of but 914Rubber is working on them).

- Front/Rear sway bar bushings - 914Rubber and Porsche

- Lemforder turbo tie rod kit - PMB Performance

- Lemforder ball joints - PMB Performance

- Bistein front/rear - PMB Performance and Amazon

My rear springs tested close to stock numbers so I kept them. Easy to replace if they start to sag.

@bbrock has the right idea, keep it simple and stock and you'll be happy.

I would add a set of the 100lb 914 Rubber rear springs to replace the 40 year old stock units.

If you want to do a bit more agressive you can add bigger torsion bars, front sway bar (rear really isn't needed), and stiffer rear springs (140lb).

I disagree. If you don't put 140lbs springs on the back and you install both front and rear sway bars, you get a better ride and flat cornering. We have been running that setup for 30 years on Betty's car.

What about and what exactly is rear coil over conversion

And what shocks are adjustable for ride height ?
Koni ?

Because you guys have to remember freewaays of los Angeles can be like a concrete buckboard .

Not great roads by any means .

I know what day it is.

The best place to get your answer is to sign up and attend the West Coast Ramble. WTF Dude you live in Monrovia step up and show your support.

Clay's suggestion is right on for a good riding car that can handle. Usually, new shocks f & r (anything but KYB's), new rear springs 90-100lb and front & rear anti sway bars. Turbo tie rods and ball joints because they are usually worn out unless you know they have been done already. If you go heavier springs and torsion bars, it's really easy to get a harsh ride if the roads are rough. Especially torsion bars since you feel the harshness through the wheel. If you want or need new suspension bushings, that means taking the whole suspension apart so plan on a much bigger job.

BTW - It helps to use the proper tools to assemble the suspension but a large pipe wrench is the right tool to remove the top cap on the strut insert and the threaded ring that holds the ball joint to the a-arm. An impact wrench with a socket removes the top nut that secures the front strut in the car in seconds.

The only thing i know about route 66 is their is a bar named route 66 .
Never seen. A ramble

Depends on how adjustable you want it I think. Bilsteins have a series of grooves for moving the lower spring perch to adjust the height, but you have to remove the shocks and springs to do it. It's more of a get it where you like and leave it thing. I'm not sure, but I think coilovers can be adjusted without taking them off. Konis are adjustable for ride firmness but I don't know about height.

I’d buy a big box of dounuts and invite some of the locals over to look things over.

[quote name='dr914@autoatlanta.com' date='Apr 1 2019, 01:14 PM' post='2701705']
suspension should be good, I would test it first, the old bounce test on the shocks, the height test on the rear springs. All you should really need is a set of springs, and then front Strut inserts, rear shocks

optionally ball joints, tie rods sway bar bushings (if so equipped) rear shock bushings, Never replace the front and rear a arm bushings unless they are totally worn out, very hard to do and a lot of labor
[quote]

I find that the front rear A-arm bushings are toast as most of the weight is carried by these. When deformed the torsion bars start rubbing inside the arm and corrosion starts leading to fracture at that point. I've replaced broken torsion bars

Barefoot

should really be ok, suspension is quite rugged

I assume you are talking about the "coil overs" kits for the rear from the likes of Paragon & other using the 2.5 in springs.
There are coil-over kits for the fronts but those are really for full on race setups that provide more/easier adjust-ability than the torsion rods available especially for the /4.
You can apply those kits to most R replacement shocks Bils, Konis, Boges and they will provide a finer ability to adjust both ride height & corner balance than just the snap ring setting, for instance, mentioned previously on the Bils.

Just Bils or Konis (all in, post tax dollars. no threaded perches) are going to consume about 2/3 of your $1.5k budget. Look at your control arm bushings. Split ugly old rubber bushings? Refitted with some hard, unforgiving, 0 lubrication plastic ones?

Skimping on other items for new $$$ inserts and rear shocks might be the wrong move. With stock torsion bars up front and 100# springs on the rear, KYBs are an economical route and the ride won't be the spine shattering ordeal some would have you believe. Work it so you pay for 1 corner balance and 1 alignment. Too rough? Add some better foam to the dr seat base.

I have new welitmested 100lbs rear coils

Thats it .

Im trying to accomplish having the car ride as smooth as possible. Im not at all after performance just compliance.

I dont believe i have front or rear sway bars
And assume i dont need em .

[quote name='rhodyguy' date='Apr 2 2019, 09:45 AM' post='2701970']
Just Bils or Konis (all in, post tax dollars. no threaded perches) are going to consume about 2/3 of your $1.5k budget. Look at your control arm bushings. Split ugly old rubber bushings?
















Id like to look at it but where and what is my control arm bushing ?

Pages 103/104, figs. 7.9 and 7.11 in your Haynes manual.

Thank you

I have the hanes